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Monday, June 13, 2011

Enamelled Rose

By Marla

“Une Rose Vermeille” by Tauer Perfumes (2010) got stuck in my “Weird Basket” for a month or two. That’s the basket where samples go that I just can’t figure out. Do I love this? Do I hate this? What’s in this stuff, anyway?

“Une Rose Vermeille”’ has top notes of citrus and lavender, heart notes of rose, aldehydes, violets, and raspberries, and an amber base. There are lots of natural, high quality ingredients in this, and lots of aldehydes, too. This one is over-the-top feminine, and so retro without actually following retro formulae. It references many things: Malle’s Lipstick Rose, Guerlain’s Nahema, women’s cosmetics of the 50s, a whole family tree of French aldehydic perfumes. It’s an “homage” to the rose, and so the many references to classic rose perfumes, the color red, and fashionable women, are all found here. With so many references, it strikes me as nearly a concept piece rather than a perfume. There’s an initial burst of citrus and lavender, then a very intense heart of jammy, fruity rose and aldehydes, then a strong amber base that surprisingly does not go gourmand. Sillage is as intense as always with Tauer Perfumes; lasting power is excellent.

So do I like it? I still don’t know. At first I thought I really hated it. Then I wanted to sniff it again. Nope, too strong. So I dabbed a micro-drop on a scarf, and every time during the day that I walked by that scarf, I thought, “Yum! What is that?”

After a couple months of this random experimentation, I really enjoy “Une Rose Vermeille” --at a respectable distance. It’s too intense for my skin, and it’s just too different from my usual persona to really wear it out and about, but I’m keeping a small decant, because I really do want to smell it again….

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12 Comments:

Blogger Ducks said...

I love this description - it makes me think of my very glamorous Grandma Rose, who loved chypres, rose fragrances, and scented cosmetics. Sounds like the anti-me, but Andy has surprised me before.

12:29 AM EDT  
Blogger Carrie Meredith said...

I'm dying to try this, and after reading your take on it, I'm more convinced than ever that this will be one of the few rose perfumes I'll fall in love with. Every other Tauer perfume I've tried is fabulous.

1:54 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ducks,
Rose Vermeille certainly would wear beautifully on your Grandma. She sounds just like the kind of woman Andy was thinking about when he created this. You might like it, too!
-Marla

6:09 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Carrie,
If you love Andy's style and it suits your skin, you will definitely fall for Rose Vermeille. It's exceptionally done. Just doesn't quite work on this organic-food-co-op, forgot my makeup again, Birkenstock kinda gal! (But hey, that's me, and I wear Andy's "Vetiver Dance" quite happily.)
-Marla

6:11 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Adore Tauer perfumes and Lonestar Memories is one of my favorites and never fails to garner compliments. Just started to wear my Montale Oud Queen Roses again after a lengthy rotation of other choices. It was the scent that began my perfume obsession and again astonished me with its beauty. Thinking Rose Vermeille will be along the same lines and very much worth trying.

8:05 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yes, if you like Montale Oud Queen Roses, you'll most probably appreciate RV as well. They are quite different, but have the same Rose Diva feeling! Very glamorous, both of them.
-Marla

8:51 AM EDT  
OpenID olfactoriastravels.com said...

I like URV a lot, but I never wear it. It is such a commitment, a bigger one than I am willing to take on with a perfume I am not totally certain about. But, like you, I love to smell it now and again. :)

2:48 PM EDT  
Anonymous Flora said...

I have not tried this one yet but now I really want it! I adore Nahema, and Andy's creations too. I have not smelled every fragrance of his yet but so far I have loved all that I have tried, including Une Rose Chypree and Le Maroc pour Elle, so I know what he can do with a rose.

4:16 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, Birgit,
We seem to be on the same wavelength with this one!
-Marla

8:42 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Flora,
Given that list, I know you'll love URV!
-Marla

8:43 PM EDT  
Blogger Undina said...

How different we all are! (not that I didn't know that before)
URV is the only Tauer's perfume (out of 5 or 6 I've tried so far) that I want to wear. I'm not sure if I ever end up buying a bottle - with its tenacity all I need to wear with my usual pattern of wearing favorite perfumes once every 1-2 months is 5-10 ml, not the FB.

3:52 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Undina,
I'm sure you'll smell wonderful in this, it really is gorgeous and well-made. And yes, a small decant would last a long time!
-Marla

6:14 AM EDT  

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