By Donna
I
have come to anticipate new launches from En
Voyage Perfumes most eagerly, ever since I fell
for perfumer Shelley Waddington’s fantastic Vents Ardents in
the summer of 2011. Something about her compositions appeals to me in
a unique way that is hard to describe. I find that the fragrances
have a certain expansive radiance that I think of as her signature,
similar to the way Andy Tauer’s funky “Tauerade” base is
immediately recognizable. It seems like Shelley’s perfumes are
infused with light, shot through with a sunlit brightness, from Vents
Ardents to Chang
Chang to Lorelei
and now to her new fragrances, Tagetes Femme and Tagetes
Homme. They both feature one of the most distinctive floral
notes in perfumery, the humble yet cheerful marigold ( Tagetes),
its unmistakable piquancy lending character to any perfume that
incorporates it. I am very fond of marigolds; they were one of the
first flowers I came to know as a child when I discovered the magic
of gardening, and they were so easy and fast growing that they were
practically instant gratification. The pungent scent of their crushed
leaves is the aroma of summer itself, warm but not sweet, sharp and
herbal and like nothing else.
Perhaps
the most iconic fragrance to use a dominant marigold note is the
rather offbeat chypre Niki de Saint Phalle, which I discovered and
loved decades ago. I have not smelled it recently, but I am quite
sure that it has been both cheapened and reformulated from comments I
have read on perfume Web sites, so I think I would need to look
elsewhere for a marigold scent now. Fortunately, both of the En
Voyage scents are excellent, so that void has now been filled.
Tagetes
Femme made me smile broadly with delight as soon as I tried it,
it is so sunny and happy and relaxed. It is sweet but not syrupy,
intensely floral and imbued with that marigold pungency I love. The
juicy opening is so delicious that I want to experience it over and
over again; it’s by far the most user-friendly version of
blackcurrant bud in perfumery that I have ever smelled. It’s over
all too soon and is followed by a cascade of florals, herbal notes,
vanilla, rose, Tonka bean, fruity musks, sandalwood and more. The
marigold kicks in along the way, but it does not dominate, it merely
adds an edge to the composition that keeps the sweetness in check,
and along with sage gives an airy clarity to the overall effect.
Summer is a cup that truly runneth over in this perfume and wearing
it feels like walking through a walled cottage garden stuffed with
all kinds of plants on a still, hot July afternoon. By their very
nature, the floral materials in the fragrance do not lend themselves
to long life, so it does fade away too soon, but while it lasts, it
has a unique beauty. I got about three to four hours from it by
itself before it dried down to a gently vanillic skin scent, and I
would suggest applying unscented moisturizing lotion or cream to the
skin to extend its life. It is definitely worth it.
The
first thing that came to mind when I smelled Tagetes Homme was
that I really, really want to meet the man who would wear this! I
pictured him in my mind immediately but it was not about appearance,
more about effortless self-assurance, an easy grace as he moves
through the world, yet not without a sense of gravitas; this
is not a person to be trifled with. In a world where so many
nominally masculine fragrances are faceless clones, it is wonderful
to find one that is truly distinctive without being “weird” or
one of those trendy things that’s supposed to be an acquired taste
for those in the know. It signals to the world that yes, it is meant
for men, but not just any ordinary man. This fragrance is for the man
who turns heads without needing to try and its attractiveness is
immediate – no learning curve needed. The marigold is much more
assertive than in Tagetes Femme and its scent has heft and weight, no
shyness here. Sage is here too, along with cedar, vetiver and
patchouli, tempered with amber and woods; the smoldering incense base
is the definition of masterful and it glows like a banked fireplace.
Its notes and structure are traditional in the broad sense, but
attention getting in the details, and the way it comes together
results in a feeling of quiet power, the kind that mesmerizes those
who are drawn to the man who wears it; this could easily end up
wearing the man on the wrong guy. The generous dose of marigold
certainly doesn’t hurt its appeal to me, since I like it so much
anyway. It is a beautiful fragrance with outstanding longevity that I
have enjoyed wearing myself, but when I do, I keep looking over my
shoulder for the handsome, mysterious man who would wear it so very
much better.
Image
credit: “Red Marigolds” abstract art via wallpaperswide.com
Disclosure:
The samples of these fragrances were sent to me for testing by En
Voyage Perfumes.
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