Rue Royale by Hove Parfumeur: Review and Draw

by Marla Hove’ Parfumeur was founded in 1931 in the French Quarter by Mrs. Alvin Hovey-King, a military spouse who’d traveled widely and loved European perfumery. Yet the house emphasizes local aromatic treats like Tea Olive (osmanthus), Vetivert (widely used in the Southern US in linen chests), and Wild Azalea from the Gulf of Mexico. The line remains remarkably coherent, very little reformulation has occurred over the decades, and the shop, newly relocated to 434 Chartres Street, looks marvelously Old French Quarter. I’ve been visiting Hove’ Parfumeur since I was a wee small tot, and my favorite has always been their quiet yet elegant chypre “Rue Royale”. They describe it thusly: “A hint of musk pervades this basically dry and light fragrance, selected most often by fair brunettes who wish a quiet elegance.” My mother told me I was too young to wear such a sultry brew back when I was 7 (she’d buy me Tea Olive or White Ginger), but now that I’m all growed up, it’s a mainstay. No matter how I’ve cajoled, they’ve refused to reveal even a single note of their popular perfume! How annoying. But as far as I can parse it, it’s a classic chypre, with real, lovely oakmoss, vetiver, soft jasmine and rose, and hints of spice and suede. It’s like polished mahogany, elegant and smooth. I like both the solid form, which I take traveling, and the perfume version, which is very rich indeed! I haven’t tried the Cologne version, because a rich chypre always seems more beckoning to me in a stronger formulation. They also make wonderful Tea Olive and Vetivert colognes, both very simple and elegant. 434 Chartres Street, New Orleans $21 through $152, also in a solid compact for $22 http://www.hoveparfumeur.com/HistoryPage.htm I’d love to send an interested reader a sample of the solid Rue Royale. Just leave a comment about a city you know of that has its own “Slow Perfumery” that emphasizes local material, or, if you don’t know of one, tell me which city should have such a perfumery. The winner will be chosen randomly.

Hove Tea Olive

The subconscious power of words! I see the word, "olive", and although I know that tea olive is a species of osmanthus, my nose smells something oily. Good oily, comforting oily. Perhaps, "creamy" would be an even better word. Literally creamy- like the scent of the facial cream my grandma used to put on at night. Did it have olive oil base? Perhaps. Tea olive is supposed to have an apricot-like quality, but to my nose, Hove's version does not. After the first brightly floral burst, even the flowery characteristic becomes subdued, and I find it difficult to tell any notes whatsoever. It is all quiet, languid, dreamy creaminess. I don't miss apricots and flowers and I have no desire to investigate the actual notes. A great olfactory miracle happened here, the one that happens once in a while, when a fragrance or a certain aspect of it touches something in your soul and the strings of your heart start playing the song you thought you have forgotten. Hove's Tea Olive transferred me to my happy place, where I am a small child, loved and protected, dosing off, over-excited, on the eve of something festive and gift-ful. Happy holidays, everybody, whichever ones you choose to celebrate! Image source, Frеd St.Jоhn, pbаse.com.