Kenzo Eau de Fleur Magnolia: Perfume Review

Eau de Fleur Magnolia is a part of Kenzo's new collection of floral scents, to which every year a new flower will be added. The collection right now also includes Eau de Soie and Eau de Thé. Created by Francis Kurkdjian, Magnolia is my favorite of the trio. I haven't expected to be so charmed by a scent this subtle and fresh, but it seemed to have put its quiet, tranquil spell on me. Despite the name, this is by no means a magnolia soliflore. The slightly fruity, apricotty flower is present like a shadow on water, a beautiful ghost of its usually sweet, luscious self. Which is exactly what I am in a mood for right now, it seems: pastels, transparency, non-heady floralcy, non-agressive freshness. There is quite a lot of citrus in the blend, dry, non-sweet citrus with a woody undertone, which plays into the delightful paleness of the composition. In the base, I sense something a little smoky, like a hint of black tea, perhaps...the overall effect is of weightless simplicity, of grace, ease and calm. As is the case with any creation that appears simple, it is in fact undeniably complex. Kurkdjian's sumptuous touch shows through the apparent purity of the fragrance, which makes its transparency warm and its colorlessness interesting. Available at Sephora, Nordstrom and Kenzousa, $55.00 for 1.7oz. Image source, lizham.com

Perfume Review: Eau d'Italie Magnolia Romana

A single, pale-pink magnolia submerged in a vase full of clear water...aroma of a pale-green stem, of fragile petals, of water itself...a minimalist and touching image...a Japanise silk painting...this, to me, is Magnolia Romana, Bertrand Duchaufour's new creation for Eau d'Italie. The beginning of the perfume is fresh and slightly herbal, the scent of clean skin, of dew glistening on delicate blossoms, a translucent, elusive aroma. As the perfume develops, it becomes more substantial, as if materializing from the droplets of water and fresh air into a corporeal entity. It is tuberose and neroli that, in my opinion, breathe life into the almost-colorless blend, making it acquire a form that is far from voluptuous but is pleasantly smooth, creamy and soft. The watery-floral overtones of Magnolia Romana reminded me of Duchaufour's new creation for L'Artisan, Fleur de Liane, which also features a (perhaps even more) generous dose of magnolia. The flower seems to be the perfumer's new fascination, along with other floral and aquatic-ozonic notes. If this is the direction Duchaufour wants to explore, taking a break from his incenses and woods, I am all for it. If anyone can make watery scents wearable and interesting, it is Duchaufour...Disturbingly, I have been drawn to the watery florals myself lately, and wore a lot of Un Jardin Apres le Mousson, Fleur de Liane and Magnolia Romana this summer. The end of the world is upon us. Magnolia Romana is available at Luckyscent and Lafco, $120.00 for 100ml. Image source, pbase.com.