Penhaligons's Gardenia: Perfume Review

Four things surprised me about Penhaligon's new rendition of Gardenia, re-introduced this year with the help of Bertrand Duchaufour as part of the Anthology Collection: 1) Its tangy and subtly sweet fruitiness, which I first imagined to be alike freshly cut green apples, but then, looking at the list of notes recognized as the result of mixing the fruity magnolia and the tart rhubarb; 2) Its natural, simple feel. By "natural" I mean the impression that all ingredients (simplistically speaking) had been picked in an unkempt, windswept little garden and put together in a pretty and unassuming fashion, miraculously, right there on an old wooden kitchen table...and not in a big fancy lab...and put together in a "simple" manner like a talented child's naturemort done in transluscent, pastel colors; 3)...Paradoxically, after the above statement... its "perfumey" and classic quality, which somehow goes alongside the simple naturalness from about 1/3 into the composition, when orange blossom and jasmine start to kick in, and intensifies with the appearance of tuberose and musk; 4) The fact that it does not smell very gardenia-like...Which, I suppose isn't that much of a surprise, since not too many gardenia perfumes do. None of these observations are meant as criticism. I find the verdant fruitiness unexpected and appealing; the pastel naturalness of the blend makes me nostalgic for the dacha of my childhood; the perfumey-ness brings the lady-like refinement which I always appreciate, and as for being true to the smell of gardenia...oh well! I already have Lauder's Tuberose Gardenia and Ford's Velvet Gardenia. As a side note, I do not remember the 1976 Penhaligon's Gardenia, so I can't compare. The 2009 is pretty, oh so pretty- the kind of slightly fresh, girly-feminine, genteel, almost "weddingy" (yes, that is a specific quality in a scent) blend that I have been in a mood for for awhile. Available at penhaligons.co.uk, £95.00 for 100ml. Image credits, Tim Walker, Penhaligon's.

Perfume Review: Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder never ceases to surprise me in that in their collection there still exist (not too obviously for an average Lauder counter visitor) alongside superficial little things like Pleasures Delight such Classics as White Linen, Knowing, Estee and Private Collection. The continued existence of the latter is especially amazing. Private Collection is not what I would call lovable and approachable. It is an austere, dry green chypre with a lot of character. It wears sharply tailored suits, carries a Kelly bag, has sharp wit and a I-am-better-than-thou attitude. And you can't help but admire it, because it is a Real Lady. I adore and collect lady-like perfumes, and Private Collection is one of the most lady-like of them all. Its juicy, earthy green beginning is what I love about it the most. It is the smell of grass, stems and hyacinths. Dark, deep green aroma that feels so wonderful in summer (and might be just a tad too cold in winter). The heart continues the green theme by adding a touch of spice and a pine-like accord to the luscious bouquet of jasmine, narcissus and rose. The base is mossy and slightly powdery...the proper, classic base, the kind of base all lady-like perfumes should have. The question of what fragrance get one the most compliments from the opposite gender are frequently seen on perfume forums. Believe it or not, Private Collection and its younger, floral offspring many times removed, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, are among a tiny number of perfumes that get noticed and complimented by my other half. Which goes to prove that gentlemen prefer ladies. Available at esteelauder.com, $45.00 for 1.7oz.