Perfume Review: Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba
(Baudelaire, The Perfume)
Bois de Copaiba does not come in a bottle pictured on the right (the bottle is actually Le Balcon, a long-gone, 1925, perfume by Parfums de Rosine). But it smells like it could only belong in an ancient, dark vessel…in a bottle accidentally discovered in some small antique shop, on a shelf where nobody ever looks, covered with dust…You open it and somehow, miraculously, it smells undamaged by time…It smells extraordinarily rich, dense, it smells of glamorous, politically incorrect bygone era of perfumes with an enveloping, impossibly sophisticated sillage. It smells like it has the kinds of ingredients that would make The European Commission's Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products faint in horror. I don’t know whether the retro quality of Bois de Copaiba was intended by the maker, but to me this is the most successful modern homage to the opulent scents of the past.
Bois de Copaiba has notes of crystallized orange pulp, red ginger, amaretto, copahu balm, mahogany wood, myrrh and sandalwood. It is decadent, creamy, subtly spicy and pleasantly inebriated. The effect of the first accord of candied citrus, piquant ginger and almondy liqueur, while not even remotely foody, is exquisitely delicious. The resinous warmth of copaiba (the balm or oleoresin obtained from the bark of Copaifera Officinalis) in the heart of Bois de Copaiba provides a smooth and luxurious transition to the plush base of sweet myrrh and creamy sandalwood. This slightly powdery, darkly-luscious drydown makes Bois de Copaiba smell almost Guerlain-like…as if that bottle discovered in a curio store contained some obscure, long-forgotten, older sibling of Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue. I also believe that those who, like me, love the comforting and elegant feel of opoponax-sandalwood blend in Or des Indes, would most probably adore Bois de Copaiba.
Bois de Copaiba is available at theperfumeshoppe.com, CAD $ 100.00 for 50ml or CAD $150.00 for 100ml. It can also be purchased at boutique-parfumerie-generale.com, as part of a Discovery Set Collection Privee No 47, which also includes Cedar Sandaraque, Corps et Ames, Querelle and Tubereuse Couture, €52.00 for five 7ml spray bottles.
The image is from Osmotheque.fr.
Labels: Parfumerie Generale