Perfume Review: Barbara Bui Le Parfum
Barbara Bui's style is typically described as minimalist, "urban modernist", evocative of the duality of "yin and yang", strength and softness. If ever there existed a fragrance perfectly fitting into the overall aesthetics of a fashion brand that launched it, it is Barbara Bui Le Parfum. The scent has a wonderfully uncluttered feel; its "lines" are clean, its colors understated. It skims the body and floats around it like a seemingly simple Bui garment, in pale beige silk.
On my skin, Le Parfum goes through three rather distinctive stages. It starts with a softly-candied floral accord. I smell mostly heliotrope, a note, which, when used in moderation, like here, is capable of creating an enveloping, pleasantly "fluffy", slightly-sugary effect, which I find very comforting. In the second stage, incense becomes very apparent. To me, the presence of incense is what makes Barbara Bui Le Parfum interesting and original. It is that little twist that I adore in fragrances. It is unexpected. After the somewhat sweet beginning one anticipates the continuation and intensification of the theme of candied florals. Instead, the scent becomes drier, and acquires a tranquil, almost meditative quality. From being "just" pretty, it suddenly transforms into something elegant and a little unconventional. The base finishes the development with a slightly peppery, lightly balsamic, woody touch. Whenever I smell Bui, I have a feeling that it is what Kenzo people wanted their Amour to smell like but did not succeed in achieving quite the same effect, simply because they did not add to their scent enough incense.
Barbara Bui Le Parfume is one of the most versatile perfumes I own. It can be taken absolutely anywhere. It is as appropriate for a casual stroll on the town as it is for visiting a sick relative or attending a black-tie affair. It is also one of my favorite comfort scents, and my go-to scent, which I invariably choose if nothing else feels quite right.
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