Hilde Soliani Il Vs Iris: Perfume Review

Il Vs Iris, the "I" in Soliani's TI AMO collection of floral fragrances (read the review of Tulipano, the "T", here) sneaked up on me with its quiet, understated, childish or better to say, kittenish charm. Although, I do smell iris in the very beginning, I would not recommend die-hard iris fans to look to Soliani's rendition for a fix. After the iris-like rooty floralcy goes away, and it goes away fast, one is left with very appealing woody greenness, evocative of a smell of freshly snapped young twig. For a little while, there is something delicately peppery in this verdancy. This part of the composition reminds me vaguely both of the piquant freshness of Navegar and of green spiciness of Piment Brulant, although Il Vs Iris is much, much softer than either of the two. Gradually, the scent acquires a distinctly almondy undertone. At first I was puzzled by the origin of this subtly sweet nuttiness. The almond wasn't thick and saccharine enough to suggest an overdose of heliotrope. The note had pastel transparency...Then I read that the blend includes mimosa and it all made sense: there IS something almondy in the mimosa/acacia aroma, and the almondy quality feels lighter, fresher, airier than in the smell of heliotrope. Imagine mixing Mimosa Pour Moi with Jour de Fete, only make both significantly less sweet. Add to that the pepper of Navegar and Pimont Brulant...And although I make Il Vs Iris sound like a pastiche of L'Artisan creations, it is not. With its initial earthiness and a distinct touch of spice, Il V Iris has something...I wouldn't dare say, animalic...but certain purring, feline grace. At the same time, its delicacy, its unripe greenness, its soft almondy undertone make it seem child-like. Like a heroine of a well-known song, it has a "gentle hand". Available at New London Pharmacy, $75.00 for 50ml.