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Monday, April 11, 2011

L.A. Confidential: Tom Ford Lavender Palm


Tom Ford, whose name is synonymous with chic, American glamour, has recently opened his flagship store, Tom Ford Beverly Hills. Ford, designer and acclaimed movie producer; his directorial debut, A Single Man, put him on the Hollywood landscape and garnered a Golden Globe nomination for best original score and two Independent Spirit Awards- solidifies his love for the L.A. aesthetic with a new fragrance, Lavender Palm. The perfume copy says, Ford was inspired by, “all of my favorite things about Los Angeles- the sun, the architecture, the lingering decadence of old Hollywood.” The boutique features his first ever dedicated womenswear floor as the perfect launching pad for this sexy, exclusive scent.

Opening with two types of lavender, Lavender Palm mingles the bright lavandin with old school lavender absolute to create a fragrance that is a modern version of a classic, unisex and somewhat straightforward fragrance. This scent is a departure in a sense from his hyper-sexualized clothing design paradigm where women are bold, sexy yet feminine and men, well they are unabashedly masculine. Other notes in this ménage include bergamot, lime blossom, vetiver and the somewhat haunting oleander- known for its toxic, fragrant beauty.

Lavender Palm, available exclusively at Tom Ford Beverly Hills until September (and then it will be unleashed on the rest of us glamourophiles world-wide) comes in two collector-worthy shapes and sizes. Both the 50ml and 250ml are metallic and illusive, like the dazzling city of angels itself, but the larger version is clearly a nod to Ford’s love of architecture. For the $950 price tag, you can pretend you own a piece of the glittering L.A. skyline and the long-lasting scent that blurs the lines between fantasy and reality.

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Monday, March 07, 2011

Fragrance Fit for a King


Luxury perfume house Krigler was started in 1905 in St. Petersburg, Russia and has been creating fragrances for luminaries and royalty like JFK, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly since the 1920’s. Known for their luxurious but subtle scents, Krigler Perfumer has made a name for itself by crafting fragrances that are timeless, gorgeous and wearable. Adhering to the motto that if a person is complimented on how fabulous they smell, and not on the perfume they are wearing, then Krigler suggests you are wearing the perfect scent for you. Never over-powering and always timeless, Krigler perfumes enhance the aura of the wearer; and judging by their long history and famed clientele they have succeeded at doing just that.

Exotic locales which evoke powerful scent memories and fragrant associations are also the inspiration for this iconic company and Oud For Highness doesn’t disappoint. Originally formulated in 1975 for King Hussein of Jordan and re-released in 2010, Oud For Highness 75 is a beautiful and exquisite scent that conjures up the exoticism and mystery of the Middle East. An elegant unisex fragrance, Oud For Highness is surprisingly light and delicate; quite a departure from the heady, rich ouds currently infiltrating the fragrance market. The succulent wood note at its top quickly lends itself to amber and saffron but it is the dry down that makes OFH creamy and lush; honey and sandalwood remain, leaving only a memory of the intense and rare agarwood on the skin.

Also fit for a king, the Krigler Boutique at the Plaza Hotel in New York City is where you can see, smell and purchase all of what this extraordinary perfumer has to offer. Krigler has had a relationship with the Manhattan landmark since 1930 and shortly after the hotel’s major renovation in 2007, the alliance was rekindled. Tucked away in the Shops at The Plaza, this treasure box of fragrance can be found and upon opening its doors the true crown jewel is revealed: the promise of timeless, classic luxury and a scent that is perfect for you. Tres chic.

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Monday, February 21, 2011

Kate Walsh: An Interview with the Private Practice Actress Turned Perfumer


Kate Walsh, the auburn beauty from television’s “Private Practice” has been very busy lately with her new Boyfriend. The latest celeb to take a foray into the fragrance industry has come up with a decidedly different concept and a really gorgeous smelling scent. Based on the smell that your boyfriend leaves on your skin; Walsh’s version is an edible and sexy fragrance that captures the essence of a man’s cologne that combines woody notes with plum and myrrh at the top. I had a chance to chat with Walsh recently and here’s what she had to say about the creation process, her inspiration for Boyfriend and why you don’t need an actual beau to smell like one.

Tell us about the inspiration behind Boyfriend. How did you make your vision happen?

Well, I came up with this idea several years ago; I think it was about 6 years ago to be exact. My boyfriend and I had broken up and I was in New York shopping and I missed him. I missed his fragrance. So I went to the perfume counter. I was in Jeffrey’s in New York and I was like, “You know what? I’m just going to get a guy’s scent. Who cares? I don’t have to have a boyfriend to have this.” For some reason I felt some weird trepidation. I don’t know why. But I was like I don’t have to have a boyfriend to have a boyfriend scent.

And then a little bell went off and I was like, “Oh, cool. Wouldn’t that be a great idea for a fragrance?” And then I thought, “I’m not going to do anything because who needs another celebrity fragrance out there?” No disrespect to other celebs. I just wasn’t interested in that, but then the idea wouldn’t leave me alone. I would try men’s fragrances – a lot of girls wear men’s fragrances -- but they were too strong or too much. And then the story of it wouldn’t let me alone. I kept thinking of all the different ways to tell a boyfriend’s story and how everywhere I go – lunch, dinner, drinks, out, shopping -- women are always talking about their boyfriends or husbands and that was what was really inspiring to me. So two things: I couldn’t really find that scent I was thinking about that would give me that olfactive memory, and there was this story everybody could relate to.

I decided two years ago to embark on, not doing a licensing deal or a royalty deal, but making the company myself so I could be really hands on by creating the fragrance and designing the packaging and really coming up with the marketing campaign. Also, after I had campaigned for Obama a few years ago, I was very, obviously, I think everyone was pretty inspired by this sort of grassroots effort and what was happening virally to support and influence and inform the campaign. And I thought it would be kind of a great experiment to try to launch a brand solely digitally in terms of marketing. The creative part was also interesting to me. I didn’t want to go with a regular licensing deal because once you do that you’re just collecting the checks really. You don’t have much creative input or control. That’s a really long, rambling way to say how I started Boyfriend, but that’s where it all came from. So I started this crazy company and here we are!

Tell us about Boyfriend the fragrance. What is the best time to wear Boyfriend? What are the notes?

I remember very distinctly my first boyfriend’s cologne, which was Polo Ralph Lauren, and going on a double date with him and a friend and her boyfriend from high school and then coming home and having that smell on us and going, “Oh my God, my shirt smells like him!” and having that crazy, giddy feeling. But also just that sense memory and how powerful that is. You smell somebody’s chocolate chip cookies and all of a sudden you’re transported back to your grandmother’s kitchen when you were a kid. It’s powerful in terms of the feelings it brings up and the storytelling that could come around it. That’s what really intrigued me. I love men’s scents. But when we were developing the fragrance I realized I really didn’t want to wear one as a steady diet. It was too much, too heavy. So when we were developing the fragrance we had this idea of having woody amber notes but we realized that, at the top, we wanted a floral. We put in the night-blooming jasmine and this juicy plum so it has a little juiciness that’s very sensual. You want to take a bite out of it. There’s vanilla as well and then it dries down to a little bit of the wood and amber. Each component, like the dry body oil and the pulse point oil, is a little different. So they all layer really well together. The nice thing about it is that it’s not a huge, oppressive fragrance. It’s not a big fragrance that announces itself when it comes into the room. You smell it and go, “Ooh, what’s that?” It’s sort of edible. And because it has these different notes and it’s a move-in fragrance, it can layer really well with other fragrances. What I wanted was a scent of a guy left on his shirt -- a very worn-in, masculine scent. It’s got that perfect balance of masculine and feminine and that’s what we were striving for.

The promotional videos are so sexy and flirtatious and they a great story. What kind of woman is this scent made for? How do you think Boyfriend will make her feel?

In the beginning it’s this kind of romance about a guy and a girl and as the webimmercials progress it’s more about the memory of him -- whether she’s stood up or not. It was like, “OK. You know what? I’ve got my boyfriend in a box. It’s totally cool.” I wanted that feeling, whether a guy is in the picture or not. It was this spirit of “Wear the red dress.” When you get the train case it has a little note that says, “Wear the red dress. Love, Your Boyfriend.” I wore a red dress to promote it, but it’s also about the spirit of feeling good and feeling sexy for yourself -- whether there’s a guy in the picture or not. It also happens that guys like the scent a lot too. The guys I’m around seem to enjoy it, but I was definitely making it for us.

Tell us about the perfume creation process. Where there any surprises along the way?

The biggest surprise to me was that – first of all it was a wonderful experience in terms of just being an artist and being a collaborator. One of my favorite things about acting is you get to go on set and collaborate with 100 crew member every day. You can have that balance of having a really specific vision and knowing what you want and then letting reality inform you and other people who are experts in their fields inform you.

I felt really grateful to have that experience because the fragrance arena is obviously new - the whole business - is a totally new territory to me. So to have this idea that, yes, I want this men’s fragrance just softened up a bit. It’s like having his fragrance on your skin with your own floral notes. The biggest surprise was, ‘Oh, I don’t want to have a straight-up men’s fragrance for women. I want it softened up. I want to have the balance of masculine and feminine and, what in the fragrance industry they would describe as the woody and the amber notes and the floral notes balanced in there. I want to wear this all the time. I want people to be able to wear this all the time. I’ve always worn oils and one of the things that were important with Marypierre, who developed it, was this idea of layering it. Not only being able to layer it within the Boyfriend products but with other fragrances. It’s palatable and malleable so if you are loyal to your other fragrance you can still work this in there.

Which part of the creation process did you most enjoy and which part was the most challenging?

That’s a really good question. I really loved all the sampling. Like I said, I had a really specific idea of what I wanted for this initial Boyfriend. There are other Boyfriends to come, like in life. Most people don’t have just one. There are others! But for this one, I really wanted to tell the story of a guy and a girl and the memory of him. I should say that part of the inspiration was that luxury feel and the romance of the train case. I wanted the design of the bottle to have that classic Chanel-type shape but modernized and with a Boyfriend twist. I wanted that luxury, but accessible so you don’t have to be a millionaire to get it. I loved doing the sampling but when it finally came to pulling the trigger and making the decision that was just agonizing to me. There were a lot of anxiety-fueled phone calls. It’s hard to commit and say, “This is it!”

The designing I just had a ball with. Chad Levine designed the bottle. We all collaborated on it, but he was just incredible. And just having an idea and seeing it become a 3D thing that’s going to be out there in the market place was just a fabulous feeling. Making up a business was really challenging and saying, “Ok, I’m going to do it this different way.” I made it like you would a TV pilot in Hollywood. You write it and then you go and try to sell it. Basically, I bankrolled the whole thing and luckily we sold it in the room to HSN and Sephora, which was a huge validation. That was the good news. Then they’re like, “OK, now you have to make a company and now you have to finance it and now you have to get a loan from the bank.” I have a great consultant, Pamela Vale, who has taken a lot of brands to market. She’s incredible and her knowledge and support has been amazing. Then we hired a designer, and a manufacturer and operations person. It was sort of like I built this company from Elmer’s glue and lint. It’s hugely exciting!

For more from the interview with Kate Walsh, visit ScentRebel.com

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Monday, January 31, 2011

A Perfumed Past


By Ashleigh

My perfume friends and I have been talking a lot lately about the scents that have shaped our past; evoking memories good or bad, the fragrances of our early years not only established a syntax of sorts for our preferences today, but influence the way we smell, purchase and talk about perfume currently. Our memories of these fragrances conjure up not only the actual odor but, our experiences and emotions associated with it. Time and time again, studies show that our olfactory preferences are based largely on our visceral attachments to a particular smell.

So what is it about your first bottle of Beautiful, or your mother’s heavy-handed use of Emeraude that resonates with you so many years later? From a scientific approach it’s important to know that our smell receptors are in direct line to the limbic system, which is not only the most primitive part of the brain, it is widely accepted to be the emotional epicenter of it. What this means is, by the time you have recognized the scent of ‘rose’ or for our purposes one of our favorite perfumes from childhood, our limbic system has already been alerted; triggering an intimate and deep-seated response. Further, our emotional associations with scent are so powerful, that the mere mention of a fragrance we haven’t smelled in years can elevate our mood. This explains the excitement and school girl giggles we all experienced this week conversing about such perfumes as Cristalle, Love’s Baby Soft, old school Chloe, Samsara and Paris.

Our inclinations toward particular scents are a highly personal matter spanning the course of our entire lives. This olfactory journey that we take is based on our experiences surrounding a certain smell and the memories it can draw out; sometimes from the recesses of our minds. In an instant, a specific smell can transport us back to a different time and no other sense that we have can accomplish this intimate, beautiful time travel. Can I say I loved the smell of Emeraude? To be honest, when my mother wore it, I found it gag-worthy. But now, I look back and remember it, and that particular time in my life with fondness. And that is entirely the point.

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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

The Origins of Oud

By Ashleigh

As we look forward to 2011 and observe what’s trending in the fragrance world, one would be have to be hard pressed not to notice all the talk about the scent of the moment- Oud. From Tom Ford to Bond, Kilian to Byredo; everyone is doing it. The exotic, heady, incense like aroma has captured our olfactory attention and it appears as though our fascination isn’t waning. As we dab, spray and sniff our way through this much talked about note, I had to ask myself: What is this mysterious essence, what is its significance and where does it come from?

Formed in the heart of the agarwood tree- a large evergreen indigenous to Southeast Asia; oud is produced in response to infection. Initially pale and light in color; the heartwood turns dense, dark and odiferous as a result of the growth of an insidious mold. The resin, pungent and rich has been revered for centuries for its unique and complex aroma.

As ancient Sanskrit writings will attest- oud has had cultural and religious significance for centuries. Known of course for its distinctive fragrance and thus highly regarded in perfume and incense making; the exotic essential oil has been used in Ayurvedic disciplines throughout history to treat such ailments such as leprosy, ulcers, arthritis, cough and even halitosis.

Cultivated, harvested and traded for thousands of years, the oleoresin we have come to know and love comes with a price- and a high one at that. Increasing demand and depleting resources has made oud not only costly, but extremely rare as well. So when your fashionable and curious nose begs you to venture out and try the all the various versions the perfume world has to offer- remember this: What you hold in your hand and what lingers on your skin is a piece of extraordinary magic that not only smells divine- it was once actually thought to be.

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Wednesday, January 05, 2011

The Return to Classicalism; the New Fragrance Mindset

By Ashleigh

Once upon a time I was a young girl fascinated with perfume. From “Love’s Baby Soft” to Nana’s “Joy”; my obsession started early. Wearing “Paris” and “Opium” in Junior high quickly segued into a rather long love affair with “Beautiful” in high school- and that relationship continues to this day.

When I’m not sniffing, spraying, reading and daydreaming about perfume, I disguise myself as a public relations consultant in order to support my habit. You can also find me being ordered around by my 8 year old daughter and when I find the time; practicing Bikram yoga.

I am thrilled to be contributing to Marina’s blog- PST is one that has been on my radar for some time. You can find me on Twitter
@scentrebel
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It would be impossible not to notice all the recent conversations regarding the “return of the classics” in fashion and of course, within the perfume industry. For several years now we’ve all witnessed the onslaught of celebrity fragrances and a lot of us have even bought in- until now. Our reasoning (and sniffing) has shifted and as consumers we’re demanding and purchasing perfume with more history and substance. But why? It’s not as though we’ve completely stopped spending but we have collectively, started thinking. Maybe in these uncertain economic times we don’t want to smell like a cloying fruit salad or worse yet, like we just spent the night partying at a rave in Ibiza. Celeb fragrances and master brand flankers are created to capitalize on past successes and what’s genuine about that? But with the traditional perfume houses like Chanel and Guerlain the consumer is lured by history and nostalgia- two elements that make purchases less risky and trendy; as long as there is proven value (the test of time perhaps) in your fragrance choice, one is now safe-guarded from the sting of buyer’s remorse.

Paradoxically, luxury items serve as equalizers between the rich and poor and every income in between. One reason of course, is their current greater accessibility. In the past it was quite a different story all together, a luxury item meant it was somewhat difficult to obtain and too, it was designed with the upper class in mind- in a word, it was exclusive. But now that such items are available to most- what defines these things as luxurious or special now? In a recent interview the author of the new book, “The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World's Most Famous Perfume, Tilar Mazzeo tells the tale of how the world’s most iconic perfume was once quite literally as good as gold:

“By 1929 Chanel No. 5 was the best selling perfume in the world. But I think that happened because the investors that bought it from Coco Chanel were a Jewish family and they had to obviously leave France and come to the United States. That’s the thing about Chanel No. 5 being produced in Hoboken, New Jersey during the war, which Chanel thought was just completely outrageous; her comment was “it’s monstrous.” It was because they were here that they made the decision to sell and distribute the fragrance through the commissaries in the United States Army. I think that is really, more than anything, what turned Chanel No. 5 into an icon. It was essentially an authorized luxury good. I mean, the US government was saying to all the GI’s, cigarettes, whiskey, silk stockings and Chanel No. 5; these were the ultimate French luxury items. So what happened was, during the Second World War, it became like gold on the black market. It was exchangeable for anything.”

So now that we say goodbye to a decade and welcome in a new one, we ironically turn to the past and seek olfactory comfort, and borrow from history a story- a tried and true narrative in which we can forge ahead, into the unknown smelling of a rich past. Fragrances such as J.Lo’s “Glow” and Jessica Simpson’s “Fancy Nights” just don’t have this kind of track record.

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