Oud Stars by Xerjoff

By Marian Oud can be challenging. Sometimes pure oud oils smell too animalic, too funky, too smoky or too rough. Many of the “Western” interpretations don’t smell like “oud” at all.  Xerjoff, in their newly released “Oud Stars” line, has designed fragrances in which the scent of oud is clearly recognizable, yet they give a big nod to Western sensibilities by pairing oud with familiar notes that are more accessible, alluring and addictive! In alphabetical order: Al Khatt is based on Laotian oud, and clear vanillic notes testify to its Indo-Chinese pedigree. The Jasmine sambac is lush with berried fruitiness not always in jasmine absolutes, which can sometimes smell like tea, soap or heavily indolic. The subtle herbal dryness of oakmoss, the resinous succulence of benzoin and the velvety nuances of cashmeran add complexity and ornamentaion to this enticing Oriental bouquet. Italian Bergamot, Jasmine Sambac, Cashmeran, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Laos Benzoin, Oud Laos Fars is a province in Iran, its capital the beautiful city of Shiraz, known as “the city of gardens”.  Fars is a symphony of flowers, herbs and woods. The smoldering smokiness of cade makes me think of agarwood chips burning in a bejeweled mubkhara; the almost chocolate-y scent of patchouli is often present in the ouds from Indonesia, and the drydown of sweet nagarmotha is so similar to some of the notes found in oud that it is often used to adulterate it. The presence of bergamot, lavender and geranium makes this perfume seem a little lighter, brighter and greener than some of the other blends in this collection. Italian Bergamot, French Lavender, cade , Egyptian Geranium, Jasmine Absolute, Cedar Atlas Amber, Santalwood, Patchouly, Haiti Vetyver, Indian Nagarmotha, Oud wood Gao- I love the way the plum-y leatheriness of the oud oils is offset by the exotic, bitter powderiness of saffron, the dryness of patchouli, the smokiness of cade and the glowing warmth of golden amber. A blend that is arid but welcoming, smoky yet powdery soft, and gourmand without being cloyingly sweet, is quite unique. I think this is more of a masculine scent because it’s very woody, but women who enjoy scents like Zafferano might really enjoy it. A blend of Spanish Saffron with a touch of Iranian Saffron, Gurjum, Bois de Cade, Nagarmotha,  Indonesian Patchouly, Amber, Blend of Thai Pratchin Oud with Oud Laos (Udomsai) Oud from India is considered to be amongst the most fecal, but in Mamluk it’s as tame as the caramel that takes center stage. This perfume is practically dripping with brown sugar, and when it’s combined with both vanilla and amber you can imagine that it easily falls into the dessert, rather than the desert, category. There’s a hint of naughtiness- sweaty bodies- contributed by the musk- and more than a little peach nectar from the osmanthus.  I would think that most people who enjoy gourmand fragrances wouldn’t be partial to oud scents, but Mamluk succeeds in combining these unlikely bedfellows in a way that gourmand AND oud lovers could both happily indulge their passion. Italian Bergamot, Honey, caramel accord, Jasmine Garndiflorum, Osmanthus, Laos Benzoin Vanilla MAdagascar, Indian Oud, Crystal Musks, Amber Najaf saw much devastation during the US invasion of Iraq. Perhaps this sweet composition is an expression of the perfumer’s wish that it experience a happier future. Osmanthus is the dominant note. In this juicy composition it smells more like apricot than peach, and a very faint bitterness reminds me of the pits hidden within an apricot’s delicate flesh.  The tobacco and herbal notes are barely discernable; vanilla and tonka add a subtle booziness, and musk contributes a furry warmth to this opulent, exotic perfume. Woody notes, Sweet and Herbal notes, Osmanthus, Cedar and Patchouli, Santalwood, Vanilla, Tonka, Tobacco and Musk, Oud Wood “Zafar” means “victory” in Arabic and Xeroff has certainly succeeded in creating a perfume that is as sensuous, multifaceted and provocative as many of the Arabian perfume oils that are popular in the Middle East. Oud really stands out in this blend. No attempt has been made to tame or disguise it so its primal energy is unmistakable. To combine it with rose and musk is very much in the “Arabic” tradition, and for that reason this perfume seems especially “authentic”. The animalic snarliness of oud and the sweet earthiness of patchouli are the most prominent components of the scent, however they aren’t so strong as to obscure the crimson headiness of rose, the heavy sensuality of white flowers or the cool, herbal breeziness of vetiver. I began this review by saying that “oud can be challenging”. “Zafar” is a challenge worth meeting head on- it’s dark; it’s bold and it’s daring. Xerjoff has earned the laurels for creating this perfume, but I intend to share them by wearing it!  Rose, Green Apple, Black Pepper, Neroli from Morocco, Oud Laos, matured over 15 years, White Flowers, Cedar, Incense from Oman, Vetyver Haiti, Musk Oud Stars can be purchased from Luckyscent and MiN New York Images, Detail of Interior of the Tomb of the Persian Poet Hafiz, Shiraz, Iran; Detail, Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran and Detail of the Dome of the Theological College, Isfahan, Iran, are by Robert Harding, allposters.com.

On The Oudification of Perfumanity: Czech & Speake Dark Rose

By Marina I believe it would be fair to call Dark Rose (2003) a cult favorite. At least I remember it being very much loved around 2004-2005-ish, when I first discovered Makeupalley. And at the danger of making swiping generalizations, I am also going to call it, along with Donna Karan Chaos (1996) and YSL M7 (2002), one of the first "oud" scents we wore, before we really knew about ouds. The exact date is hard to pinpoint, but just a little later, Montale suddenly appeared on the scene, and then seemingly all we wore and talked about and lemmed were ouds. Then every brand jumped on the oudwagon. And then we also got to try Real Stuff, non-adapted for "western" liking, and then Montales etc. weren't good enough (oudy enough) anymore...So, anyway, this is my version of how the oudification of perfumanity went down. Dark Rose and its comrades* made us receptive to ouds, prepared the soil of our collective taste, so to say, like, um, Decabrists prepared the soil for Lenin. ...Coming back to Dark Rose... The fragrance has not lost its appeal for me, possibly because it's not really about oud. It is a rose blend in which oud (as well as patchouli, sandalwood and amber) was used to achieve a dry-smoky effect...to paint an image of smoldering and scorched petals...When I first apply the perfume, the rose is fresh, ripe, nectarous...but almost right away it catches on fire lit by saffron and agarwood and starts burning on my skin...the aroma that is released by that flame is incomparable to any other rose perfume I know...it is as if the petals were first caramelized and then torched. That vaguely gourmand quality of the rose is unexpected and appealing in such a dry, nocturnal, brooding composition. Never has a scent been so rightly named; Czech & Speake's creation rules the pantheon of Dark Roses. As an aside, since I am already on the subject of Cz&S and roses, the brand's other rendition of the flower, called simply, Rose (1988), while perhaps not as striking, is also a very elegant blend, which might delight those who don't like their roses sweet. Spiked by the verdant spiciness of geranium in the top notes, Rose softens in the heart, where its angles are smoothed by creamy ylang ylang. The dry, green leitmotif is, however, present throughout the development and even the rich, slightly earthy base retains a hint of geranium. *Some other fragrances that have been sneaking oud in our olfactory wardrobes long before it was all ouds, all the time are: Balenciaga Pour Homme (1990!), Nina Ricci (!) Deci-Dela (1994), Gap Om (1996), Yves Rocher Nature Millenaire (2000) and Rykiel Woman (2003). Have you worn an oud way back then and haven't realised it? Do tell! Dark Rose and Rose can be found at shoplondons.com, $130.00 and $125.00 for 100ml respectively.

Black Mysterious

By Marian Many “Arabian” attars are variations on the oud, rose and musk drama and when I first became enamored of “Eastern” scents I never tired of experiencing the mystery and exoticness of those three notes. Gradually I’ve been learning to distinguish between the different types of roses that sweeten and sensualize the blends- the citrus-y sparkle of Isparta rose, the billowing opulence of Bulgarian damascenes, the elegant clarity of Rosa alba and the smooth zestiness of the rare and exquisite Taif’I rose, first cultivated in Arabia during the Ottoman empire. I’ve developed a preference for mukhallats (mixtures) featuring ouds from Cambodia or India – the Cambodians exhibiting a lush and bountiful fruitiness, the Indians a stately strength or animalic intensity- and have gradually began to appreciate how a subtle change in the amount or nature of any individual component can hugely effect the feeling, and my enjoyment of, the perfume. Recently I received a sample of Black Mysterious perfume oil. In this unique and modern composition the perfumer has chosen to combine natural ingredients not usually found in “Arabian” perfumes with the classic oud, rose and musk trio. Despite this innovation Black Mysterious embodies the deep and dark seductiveness I’ve come to associate with “Oriental” oils. It encapsulates the scents of a caravan- the dense smokiness of star-wrapped campfires, the dagger sharpness of pepper-filled saddlebags, the leathery punch of camel hides and the voluptuous scents of rose, indolic white flowers and sweet balsamic resins that have been traded along the Silk Road for the last 3,000 years. The traditional elements are all there but they are embellished with a welcome and unusual twist. And, the notes aren’t the only surprise- although this perfume starts out with an almost aggressive, resinous assertiveness, it dries down into a soft, floral and woody gentleness that’s quite demure in its delicacy. Aluwwah carries an enticing selection of mukhallats, attars and raw perfume ingredients traditionally used in Middle Eastern perfumes. They also stock high quality agarwood that, when burned, can be used to perfume your home and clothes for special occasions.

By Kilian Incense Oud Perfume Review

By Marina Tell me if, upon hearing the name, Incense Oud, you did not immediately imagine a powerhouse of a scent. I certainly was bracing myself for a double impact. Let's face it, neither note is exactly quiet. And since both are usually very dominant in any composition they are in, I was looking forward to witness quite a temperamental drama unfold. Well, The Taming of the Shrew (or my favorite version, an Italian take on the classic, Il Bisbetico Domato, with Adriano Celentano and Ornella Muti) sort of passionate love-hate scenario was only in my head. The incense and the oud of the new By Kilian fragrance are existing in utter harmony, possibly because both are utterly understated. Perhaps Katharina and Petruchio (or Elia and Lisa) would've become like that, having learned to accept each other's idiosyncrasies, after years of living together. Perhaps not. In any case, Incense Oud is a soft, warm, cuddly blanket of a scent, as comforting as they come. I would say that incense is somewhat stronger than oud, however, the strongest accord to me is neither of the title ones, but a sandalwoody-ambery blend, which I can smell as soon as the first wonderful hit of spicy, slightly medicinal incense-oud mix in the top notes settles. That medicinal, vaguely valerian-like beginning is my favorite part of the perfume; the comforting base, however, is a delight too. I don't know if I am prepared to pay that much for a comfort scent though, since there are other options available. Would it be like paying the price of a mink throw for a snugglie? Having said all that, this is a graceful scent, masterfully blended with a light hand. I would be curious to hear whether you were disappointed to encounter such a less is more approach in a perfume with incense and oud, from an Arabiain Nights collection or found an understated approach refreshing. Available at Luckyscent and Bergdorf Goodman, $395.00 for 1.7oz.

Winter Roses. Comforting East: By Kilian Rose Oud, Keiko Mecheri Attar des Roses

By Marina "You love the roses - so do I. I wish The sky would rain down roses, as they rain From off the shaken bush. Why will it not? Then all the valley would be pink and white And soft to tread on. They would fall as light As feathers, smelling sweet; and it would be Like sleeping and like waking, all at once!" Roses by George Eliot I woke up on January 1, 2011 with a craving for rose perfumes. I don't know where it came from, when for a couple of years I have been suffering from an affliction similar to that of Bulgakov's Pilate ("More than anything in the world the procurator loathed the smell of rose oil, and everything now pointed to a bad day, since that smell had been pursuing him since dawn.") and shied away not only from rose "soliflores" but from blends as well. Wherever the cure of my anti-rose "disease" came from, it clearly was a part of some kind of larger phenomenon, since other incidents of rose-perfume-cravings were reported simultaneously in the beginning of this month, for example, by our own Donna and by Victoria of Bois de Jasmin. Also, birds were falling from the sky and fish were washed ashore... In any case...Victoria is also to thank for my discovery of Rose Oud. My reluctance to try the new By Kilian was threefold: a) it had a prominent rose note (see above), b) ouds have become trite c) rose ouds have become even more trite. What new can something unimaginatively called Rose Oud add to the genre, I wondered. As it turns out, not much, really, in terms of breaking any kind of new ground in the oud land. But what it does add is delight to the life of its wearer. It is just so...pretty and wearable and delicious, it's impossible not to like it. Nothing complex here: roses + oud + a gourmand undertone, but each of the three components is impeccable, done just right. The roses are dark-pink and oozing nectar. The oud is not going to knock you over with the sharp animalic feel I usually look for in ouds, but it does possess just enough of the beast to serve as a perfect contrast to the beauty of the rose. And then there is this soft, fluffy-creamy...something, a certain edible characteristic not unlike that of White Aoud, perhaps in the mix of cardamom and vanilla...something that makes you unsure whether you want to sniff the spot on your wrist where you sprayed Rose Oud or gnaw on it just a little bit. Like White Aoud, it is a comfort scent to me. Keiko Mecheri's Attar des Roses is also comforting. Less creamy/vanillic, it still has a fairly edible feel about it, due to the wonderfully "candied" quality of the rose accord. It is as if the petals received the same delicious treatment, which slices of citrus fruits often do, by being generously coated with little crystals of sugar. The accord is set against a drier, leathery one, and that prevents the blend from becoming too sweet. The ambery drydown retains some of the leather and a lot of the rose, giving the composition a nicely rounded effect, both in conceptual and olfactory terms. It is more floral, compared to Rose Oud, and might be a great option for someone not comfortable with ouds (or the price), but seeking the same mood and feel. Rose Oud is available at Luckyscent, $395.00 for 50ml, Attar des Roses at keikomecheri.com, $115.00 for 75ml.

The Origins of Oud

By Ashleigh As we look forward to 2011 and observe what’s trending in the fragrance world, one would be have to be hard pressed not to notice all the talk about the scent of the moment- Oud. From Tom Ford to Bond, Kilian to Byredo; everyone is doing it. The exotic, heady, incense like aroma has captured our olfactory attention and it appears as though our fascination isn’t waning. As we dab, spray and sniff our way through this much talked about note, I had to ask myself: What is this mysterious essence, what is its significance and where does it come from? Formed in the heart of the agarwood tree- a large evergreen indigenous to Southeast Asia; oud is produced in response to infection. Initially pale and light in color; the heartwood turns dense, dark and odiferous as a result of the growth of an insidious mold. The resin, pungent and rich has been revered for centuries for its unique and complex aroma. As ancient Sanskrit writings will attest- oud has had cultural and religious significance for centuries. Known of course for its distinctive fragrance and thus highly regarded in perfume and incense making; the exotic essential oil has been used in Ayurvedic disciplines throughout history to treat such ailments such as leprosy, ulcers, arthritis, cough and even halitosis. Cultivated, harvested and traded for thousands of years, the oleoresin we have come to know and love comes with a price- and a high one at that. Increasing demand and depleting resources has made oud not only costly, but extremely rare as well. So when your fashionable and curious nose begs you to venture out and try the all the various versions the perfume world has to offer- remember this: What you hold in your hand and what lingers on your skin is a piece of extraordinary magic that not only smells divine- it was once actually thought to be.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh

By Marina A darker and, arguably, more broodingly handsome cousin of Eau d'Italie's Bois d'Ombrie and Baume du Doge, Al Oudh has inherited the same dusty date note as the former and raw earthiness of saffron as the latter. (Funny that this new L'Artisan creation of Duchaufour's makes me think of his Eau d'Italie scents, not L'Artisans.) What sets Al Oudh apart from the relatives at Hotel le Sirenuse are, yes, oud and cumin. When I first started on the path of perfume obsession way back when (a long time ago, it feels, when dinosaurs lived with man and died in the flood) there existed such a fairly widespread phenomenon as cuminophobia. Perhaps, fragrance lovers nowadays aren't scared by the sweet sweatiness of the note, but I feel the warning is in order just in case: the warm, velvety stinkiness of cumin dominates the first half of Al Oudh's development and is mighty perceptible in the second half. To the point where one might ask, where is oud? Oud does emerge towards the end but it is ... Duchaufour's take on the note. It is dense and strangely airy at the same time and smoky in a paradoxically transparent sort of way ...a thin strip of smoke coming out of a dry gray pebble...this is an image I see when I smell the oud and incense notes of this fragrance. But I digress from the star note of the blend, the cumin. Accompanied by a soupçon of cardamom, quite a bit of vanilla and the aforementioned dates, it is creamy and rich. One doesn't know whether to hunger after its deliciousness or to be perversely titillated by its dirtiness. In other words, it's how a cumin accord should be done. As for oud...this is not an oud perfume for the oud purists, but one for the fans of Duchaufour's talent for modern and unique interpretation of traditional ingredients and popular inspirations. Available wherever L'Artisan is sold, $155 for 100ml.

Killing me Softly: By Kilian Rose Oud

By Tom I've been resistant to By Kilian. It's really all my issue. I do admit that the scents are nice but the level of twee is cranked up to about 11 with the packaging with the little keys. That and Kilian Hennessy makes me feel fat. (I told you it was my issue) Then he started moving into Oud. Oud is I believe the new wood, or perhaps the new fruit. Previously having been the seeming provence of only the house of Montale, it seems like everyone and his brother have a new scent featuring the ingredient. Soon at a Sephora near you: Infectious by Sean John. By Killian Pure Oud is lovely, but forgive me if I write that there are a few others out there that are doing the same thing for a little less money? Rose Oud treads a different path. Roses are often grafted to sturdier root stock to get healthier flowers. The mix of Caron-like cabbage roses and Agarwood is so seamless as to be as if the roses grew directly from the wood, sucking up the oud and radiating it along with the delicious sweet rose, saffron and cardamom. It isn't something I would buy for myself if only because of the price point: a shade less than $400 for 50ML is a little more that I want to put out, and I have a feeling that there are a few other less pricey, less opulently packaged scents that have treaded this part of the garden. But if this is in your budget, go for it. Available at all places that sell By Killian. I got my sample by asking for it at ScentBar.

Areej Al-Ameerat Dehen Al Oud by Areej Al Ameerat

By Marian The amber of your eyes is melting- soft and doe-like. I want to dive inside your eyes and be swallowed by their radiance. Plums, oozing the splendor of sun-drenched orchids- lusty and ripe, bursting with golden nectar. Dignified balsams, trunks bleeding resin, tower into the pitch-drenched night. Sable cloaked- I bury my nose in your sueded elegance. You are warm like a stag's breath; as regal as a mountain lion. When the moon hangs precariously in the sky, I will nuzzle beside you, and wait for your impassioned embrace to pierce my heart. Areej Al-Ameerat is a blend of the finest agarwood oils- a Wagnerian symphony of sumptuous elegance, stature and splendor. 7,500 UAE dirhams (@ $2,040.00) for 12 mls. Another sublime and sensuous scent is Areej's Syoufi Musk. Smoky leather, sparkling mandarins and rose-smothered damsons harmonize to form a warm and luscious blend that is ripe, succulent and scintillating . 1000 UAE dirhams (@$275.00) for 12ml. Areej al Ameerat is one of the most exclusive shops in Dubai. Perfume purveyors to the elite, Areej al Ameerat specializes in exceptional Dehen al Oudhs from India, Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia. Their famed Blue Oud is reputed to be “the rarest agarwood in world” and of unsurpassed quality. Custom, monogrammed leather boxes and gold-plated perfume bottles are available for storage of Areej al Ameerat's treasures. By appointment only. Areejalameerat.com.

Spice/Chest: L'Artisan Al Oudh

By Tom Oudh (or Aoud, or Oud or however it's spelled) is a note that I have learned to really love. Through Kelley I've discovered Montale and through Marina I've discovered the wildly priced Arabian Oud line. This year seems to be the Year of Oud in niche: everyone from Tom Ford to Le Labo has one. Created by Berntrand Duchaufour, Al Oudh could almost be accused of false advertising. Patty at Perfume Posse described it as "sweaty armpit" while Robin at NST calls it a "bold, very enjoyable outing". I get a boatload of cumin. Cumin, cumin and citrus opening, cumin, cumin, cumin and oud with roses middle and cumin, cumin, cumin, cumin, vanilla, civet and cumin drydown. (spam, spam, spam, lov-e-ly spam...) I happen to like cumin in scents, even unto Eau d'Hermes and I do like this one. A lot. Despite the cumin-heavy mix it's only really overwhelming in the first half hour: after that it's silky smooth. Unless of course, you don't like cumin. If you dislike that note then I suggest staying well clear: unlike a some L'Artisan scents, this is quite tenacious. Al Oudh is $155 for 100ML available at the usual suspects. I spritzed at Barneys and asked for and received a sample at ScentBar.

Al Shomoukh Attar by Amouage

By Marian Although I’m not generally fond of smoky fragrances, I am enthralled by Al Shomukh’s smoldering sensuality. The note of pitch tar is a sultry foil to the fruity sumptuousness of davana, and the balsamic freshness of resinous woods beautifully contrasts with the ripe, honeyed rosiness that pervades this voluptuous composition. Vetiver adds an herbal earthiness to the scent, and there are even hints of citrus and cinnamon that keep the sweet, glowing warmth of this lush attar from becoming cloying. Are you a fan of musk? Entwined with the animalic sensuality of oud, musk abyadh, though lacking in true smut, adds a lustiness to the scent that puts it in the sexy, rather than beautiful, category. Al Shomoukh is not a scent for the timid or feint of heart- it is a wild, alluring, and provocatively mysterious blend that is as complex as it is unusual. Slide beneath some satin sheets, change your white light bulb for a pink one, allow Al Shomoukh to penetrate your skin, and see what happens! Notes: Silver Oudh, vetiver, musk abyadh, Taifi rose, davana Available at Selfridges, London $350.00 for 12 ml. Image source, unknown, please let us know if you know the author.

Amouage Epic Woman: Perfume Review

As Fred R. Barnard noted, “an epic is the easiest kind of picture to make badly.” Luckily, Amouage, with its grand mentality, is exactly the kind of line that does epics wonderfully well and short stories not so much. They should therefore completely disobey Hemingway's advice and not "eschew the monumental" or "shun the epic". The new member of Amouage dynasty continues the magnificent lineage with great flair. I am almost tempted to say that, with its unapologetic sumptuousness, it outdoes its great ancestors. And that's a feat of epic proportions in and of itself, as the ancestors include such larger than life creations as Gold, Jubilation 25, Ubar and Lyric. Speaking of Lyric, to me, Epic picks up its ripe, honeyed rose theme and carries it on, embellishing the star note further, and sort of giving the idea its logical closure by making the composition darker and even more extravagantly lush. No, the two are not the same fragrances, but of all Amouage siblings these are probably the closest in spirit. The embellishments in question are oud and frankincense. The funny thing is that, at the very first sniff from a vial or a on scent strip, the scent is undeniably an oud-rose blend. As soon as it is applied to the skin, however, incense takes center stage, and I like that. There are plenty rose-ouds and not that many rose-incenses. The nocturnal, resinous frankincense note delights me with its presence for a good long while, sort of covering the rose like a black curtain. Eventually the curtain is lifted and there is the flower, sweet, over-ripe, spicy with cinnamon and geranium, brewed with black tea and vanilla into a seductive potion. It is a delicious, edible, sensual and yet appropriately regal rose. If you are looking for more oud, you will find more in the base, along with some dirt from patchouli and some more nectareousness from amber and sandalwood. Those afraid of the sweetness, note that it is well balanced by the drier, stark notes of frankincense, gaiac and oud. Cuminophobiacs, to you I can only say that there was no cumin on my skin (not that I would have minded some). All fans of the Big Perfumes in general and Amouage's decadent oeuvre in particular, Epic is a must-sniff and, as far as I am concerned, a must-have. Available at amouage.com, €195-€230, and coming soon to Luckyscent. Image credits, Miles Aldridge, Amouage.

Montale Amber and Spices, Wild Aoud, and Aoud Leather

By Tom Somewhere Kelly is doing his "Toldja So!" dance.. Lately I have found myself very drawn to Montale fragrances, especially the aouds. Aoud (or Oud) is actually (according to Wikipedia) a reaction of a hardwood called Agarwood to a mold infection, a resin is produced; the more mold, the more resin, and the more scent. I've grown more and more fond of Montale's various scents that feature this slightly mushroomy clean-skin note and was happy to sample 3 of the 7 new ones that are available at luckyscent. Amber & Spices doesn't list aoud in the name, but it's in there from the opening to the end. The spices are cumin and nutmeg, lending this a slightly drrrty air and Montale's other trademark, deep winey rose. The woody amber drydown is lovely, but cumin hates keep in mind while this isn't Eau d'Hermes, if you consider for instance Serge Noire to be gaggingly skanky, this one isn't for you. It is however, very much for me. Wild Aoud starts with a burst of candied sweetness, sprightly citrus and candied rose petals before being joined by geranium, aoud and finally resiny woods. I only get a hint of the listed tobacco in the drydown and the listed patchouli is still hiding somewhere, but none of that's a bad thing. I'd never thought I would come across a "summery" Montale, much less enjoy it, but we live and learn. This surprised me by being my favorite of the three. Aoud Leather neatly tips your expectations on it's ear: the leather isn't a biker jacket, it's more a ladies opera-length glove. One with which she had inexplicably decided to zest some Mexican limes (the teensy ones that I think are Key limes in Florida). The effect is not unlike as luckyscent points out like Piguet's Bandit. Like one of those fashion magazine that dolls up Gwyneth Paltrow as Marilyn Monroe, this is a comparison that inevitably does Aoud Leather ill: it makes a very appealing scent pale by comparison. Actually, it kind of makes this seem like "Bandette". But if you find the Piguet just waaay to much, this is worth a try. Heck, it's worth a try on its own, because as luckyscent points out "there can never be too many leathers" $150 for 50ML, $210 for 100, at luckyscent Depending upon when this is put up, it will be a day shy of when Colombina first invited people to contribute to her blog. Three days later she kindly put up my first review. I want to first publicly thank her for three years of learning and growing as a perfume-lover and I hope as a writer, and of course to thank all of the people who have been so kind and generous with comments and thoughts. It's meant more to me than you can know and I look forward to more adventures in sniffing in the future. (Tom, the blog wouldn't be what it is without your elegantly snarky wit and you skanky tastes. You should know that I came up with that first call for contributors, to lure you in, because I loved your comments so much. You are the best! - M.) The winner of the Scents by Alwexis drawing is Chaya, please contact us with your shipping information and thanks to you all for your comments!

Le Labo Oud 27: Perfume Review

By Tom Oud is a note that I am loving more and more in perfumes, whether it's one that I've tried, like Montale to ones that I one day hope to try. Le Labo has released the first new non-exclusive (available everywhere, and thank them for it) since the company started, and Oud is right there in the title. Much like some of their other scents, Oud is not immediately apparent as the star of this show. The initial blast is woody and rather leathery, almost tarred in the vein of their Patchouli 24. There's also immediate cedar, sweetened with a lovely saffron note and a fair bit of skank. This one packs a punch, adding in ambered heat, and is sure to be polarizing until the opening calms to the post-coital woody drydown. The Oud is more a unifying theme than a stand-out ingredient for me and that's a good thing; it's always discernible, but at sexy whisper rather than a hoarse shout. I was (I'm sure you, tonstant weader, are shocked by the revelation) immediately so smitten that I bought a bottle, and am happy to report that for some reason this one is ready to go from the first mixing. For those of you who are curious about how the whole fresh-mixed ethos is going to work out with them being available at LuckyScent. I know I did. LuckyScent actually will carry no stock of the perfume at all. All orders are mixed fresh at the Le Labo store on 3rd & Sweetzer in LA, hence the extra day processing the order on LuckyScent's end. Pretty neat. Of course you can order it direct from Le Labo, but if you want, say a Le Labo and a Perfumerie Generale, you can do one-stop shopping. Nice! Available in 50ML for $130 and 100ML for $200 at LuckyScent Additionally available in 15ML travel size for $53, 10ML silicon balm (which is FABULOUS) for $80, and 4oz oil and 8oz lotion for $60 at Le Labo's website

Perfume Review: Montale Aoud Red Flowers

If Lipstick Rose had a fling with an aoud scent, the result of the fling would have been a scent with its papa's exotic coloring and its mama's very French, very feminine and very chic disposition. This Beauty-and-the-Beast offspring would have been named Aoud Red Flowers. Montale have already (successfully) attempted to marry Europe and Orient in Aoud Flowers, which blended aoud with tuberose. Aoud Red Flowers mixes aoud with marigolds (I am assuming, red marigolds and, inevitably, roses, also red). For the life of me I cannot remember the smell of marigolds, I can only say that in this particular fragrance the floral accord seems to be bright, not particularly sweet, with just enough powderiness to evoke lipsticks and foundations and all things classically feminine, retro and refined. I cannot smell the declared saffron at all, but it might be this golden spice that contributes to the dazzling brightness of the floral accord and enhances the broody exoticism of the aoud. This is a non-aggressive aoud for those who are still a little scared of aouds and a moderately powdery floral for those who want some but not too much powder. Or a great new scent for those who like their exotic scents to have a classic feel and for their classics to have an exotic twist. Available at Luckyscent and Aedes, $150.00-$210.00 The image is by Annie Leibovitz.

Perfume Review: Micallef Vanille Aoud

I am rarely in a mood for vanilla. I am always in a mood for a fragrance that is masterfully built on an interesting contrast. In Micallef's Vanille Aoud, the contrast is announced right in the name. The sweet, milky innocence of vanilla is juxtaposed with the dry, dark sensuality of aoud. Vanilla turns aoud into a mouthwatering delicacy, while aoud turns vanilla into "the little deadly demon among the wholesome" vanillas. It is a very simple scent, all there is to it are two accords intertwining: one toffee-like, creamy and childish, the other slightly spicy, woody and the very opposite of innocent. A touch of citrus adds fresh tangyness to the blend that otherwise could have been too sweet. I would compare Vanille Aoud to a less saccharine and much lighter Matin Calin mixed with oud. It is a "not a girl not yet a woman" kind of perfume, the kind to which one feels almost ashamed to be attracted and yet can't help but be enthralled. This Dolores Haze of a scent seems to be one of the newest Micallef creations and will be available at Luckyscent in the near future. Image source is unknown, and I would be grateful if somebody could tell me who is the author of this photo of Natalya Vodyanova.

Perfume Review: Arabian Oud King Fahed

Oud-lovers, close your eyes or close this page. If you read further, your emotional and financial health will be in serious jeopardy. It is too late for me, a lovely enabler opened for me the (very expensive) world of Arabian Oud ...but save yourselves! Now, those reckless enough to keep reading, Arabian Oud, according to their own site, is "the largest Arabian fragrance retailer in the world, specialising in incense and oil perfumes (...) the first Arabian company to be a member of the Fragrance Foundation UK (...) the first and only Arabian company to be registered in the Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World book." So now you will feel better about paying £1050 for 12ml of King Fahed, the scent that I liked the most among the Arabian Oud blends that I tried so far. I am not even going to talk about whether it is worth that kind of money. It is so much out of my range that it is not even funny. But it is gorgeous. It is supposed to be a masculine blend, and I would love to smell it on somebody male, dark and handsome. Having said that, it is entirely wearable and utterly delightful on female skin. It starts with a strong oud note, spicy, sharp and medicinal. Oud's loyal companion, rose, starts to blossom almost immediately, adding sweetness and softness to the former, and making the masculine note if not exactly feminine then certainly androgynous. The stunning duo becomes an even more compelling trio as musk appears on the scene. The Muscs Koublai Khan sort of musk, dirty-minded and heavy-lidded. It makes the blend smell touchingly and alluringly human. It is the scent of hot skin, of passionate touch, of... OK, where was I? What appeals to my dramatic Russian soul in Arabian Ouds is that everything is taken to the extreme. You thought that oud plus rose plus musk was lush and sensual enough. Well, how about some patchouli for good measure? And that patchouli mixed with musk is ...like making love in the mud (with someone dark and handsome, of course). Enough said. I would send you to smell this wonder for yourself (and if you are in London, by all means, please do so), but I am not sure the company sells/sends samples. It is, however, possible to order the perfume online, for £490-£1050, depending on the size and the fanciness of the bottle. Image source, style.com.

Perfume Review: Montale Red Aoud

You probably know by now that I am a big fan of Montale's aouds. And yet I must admit that there are so many of them and the differences between them are so subtle that, well, they all smell kind of the same. Yes, I adore Aoud Roses Petals and Aoud Flowers but, were you to make me blind-smell them, I probably wouldn't have been able to tell which one is which. Red Aoud, however, has something distinctive about it ... Namely, chocolate. That's right, somehow a strange and strangely appealing mix of aoud, cumin, saffron and orris produces a chocolate-like effect on my skin. Imagine one of those bizarre-sounding Vosges bars that blend chocolate with chili and pimento (and things almost unthinkable, like wasabi and bacon). The combination of bitter-sweet chocolate and spice is, to me, irresistible, in food and in perfume. I have a feeling that ingesting aoud is "almost certain to disagree with you, sooner or later", but were it safe to consume it in tiny doses, an aoud-rose-saffron-cumin chocolate bar would have been something I'd happily pay $7.50 for. The "chocolate" effect does not last too long. After a while, Red Aoud turns into the usual rose-heavy, resinous, dark and sensual scent that unites all Montale aouds. But the spicy-sweet beginning is unique enough for me to want to own the bottle. Available at the usual Montale retailers, $150.00-$210.00.