Amouage Honour

By Marian Although I’m embarrassed to admit it, Amouage’s handcrafted bottles first interested me in the brand, and I assumed that as much care went into creating the fragrances as their opulent containers. The first perfume I tried, Lyric for Women, lived up to my expectations, and my Amouage perfume oils are as complex, unique and every bit as luxurious as those first gold-encrusted bottles. It was therefore with great excitement that I encountered Honour for Woman at the Elements Showcase. Honor is named in honor of “truth and beauty” and is meant to be an elegy to Madame Butterfly as she is remembered by her grown son. White on white butterfly wings flit across the box and the white ceramic bottle reflects the purity of Butterfly’s heart. I wasn’t sure what to expect from a scent inspired by such a tragic story- something cold and metallic that references Cio Cio San’s harrowing suicide? Something sad and wistful that recalls her longing for her departed naval officer? A soft and gentle homage to Butterfly’s sweetness, hopefulness and innocence? According to the website “Each ingredient embraces a plethora of emotion and meaning; sweet Tuberose represents danger; Jasmine, attachment; Gardenia, secret love and Lily of the Valley, purity of heart. A harmoniously rich resin base of Frankincense, Amber and Opoponax injects dimension, depth and complexity.” Honour for Women is a soft white floral that seems more commercial and conventional than the other Amouage fragrances with which I’m familiar. Pepper and carnation give it the tiniest bit of a kick, frankincense and amber add warmth and luster, and the sweetness of lily of the valley and jasmine permeate the blend. However gardenia and tuberose, whose mintiness adds a touch of cool detachment, are the star performers. Lovers of white florals should definitely attend the performance but those who expect uniqueness and inventiveness from Amouage may be disappointed. Honour Man has strong notes of pepper, nutmeg and geranium – it’s opening is sharp and lively. I was surprised to read that tonka bean is one of the basenotes- on me the drydown is all dry woods and herbs (cedar, frankincense and patchouli). The perfume didn’t develop much and after a while I found myself feeling irritated by its piquancy. If you like the scent of feisty pepper and arid woods you might enjoy this parched fragrance, but if your significant other wears it I hope his heart is warmer than his perfume. Honour EDP is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles.

Amouage Memoir Woman...Has Everything

By Marina New York’s hottest club is CREASE. Club promoter, Tranny Oakley, has gone all out. And inside is just everything: Lights, psychos, ferbies, screaming babies in Mozart wigs, sun-burned drifters with soap sud beards. From Stefon's SNL skit If you watch Saturday Night Live, you are familiar with Stefon, New York city correspondent and my husband's and my favorite SNL character, played by Bill Hader. The leitmotif of each of his descriptions of NYC's hottest clubs is that they have everything. Whenever I smell Memoir Woman, I hear Stefon's voice lispily intoning that it has EVERYTHING: absynth, cardamom, mandarin, pink pepper, clove, incense, black pepper, jasmine, rose, musk, labdanum, oak moss, styrax and leather. I mean, does it not sound like it in fact has everything short of babies in Mozart wigs? With the exception of such uncharacteristic offerings as Reflection (and several Opuses, as well as some masculines...Memoir Man, for instance, is an epitome of minimalism, in comparison to its feminine counterpart...), Amouage has never subscribed to the less is more philosophy. And good for them! In the olfactory sea of PC, one-note, generic eaux and "these are not perfumes" we need brands which would insist on dousing us with juices that have everything, last forever, and throw a sillage formidable enough to clear any of New York's hottest clubs. Kudos in that respect should also go to Mona di Orio and several of Etat Libre d'Orange's blends. If I had to humbly offer a critique of Memoir, it, therefore, wouldn't be that it is too much of a good thing. Absynth, leather, incense, rose and musk smell rather hot together. My problem is that Memoir is full of references to other Amouage perfumes. I smell everything from Ubar to Lyric in this opulent mix. But that is the danger for any extensive line that has been around for a while: sooner or later it becomes repetitious. Serge Lutens's is another example of that phenomenon. Which one of his creations do I NOT smell in Boxeuses? Having said that, Memoir is plush, rich, dressed up to the nines...Wear it to the hottest clubs, much to the awe and delight of sun-burned drifters. Available at Amouage's website and Luckyscent, $250.00-$280.00. Please tune in tomorrow for the first post from PST's new contributor Ashleigh who will be discussing The Return to Classicalism; the New Fragrance Mindset.

In a Holiday Humor: L'Artisan Coeur de Vetiver Sacre & Amouage Memoir Man

By Marina With Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, L'Artisan Parfumeur promises to take the wearer to the "magic East". On my skin, the fragrance never makes it quite that far. It goes down Queens Blvd and Long Island Expy, with final destination being my favorite Russian grocery store, called Monya & Misha, in Rego Park. Not very magic, you say? Well, when one is craving one's ancestors' food, it is! Inside the store we head right to the pickles section. Monya & Mitya has a big table with buckets full of barrel-marinated tomatoes, gherkins, cabbage, aubergines...you name it, they marinate it. That unglamorous, badly lit little section might just be my favorite place in all NYC. To put a long story short, and you've already guessed it, Coeur de Vétiver Sacré smells to me like pickles or rather like that whole corner at Monya & Mitya's...a green, dill-like, raw, earthy aroma, slightly rotting in the most appetizing manner. Coeur de Vétiver Sacré might disappoint the hardcore vetiver fans; were it not for "vétiver" in the name, I wouldn't have guessed that the composition was meant to be vetiver-centered. I am not complaining though. To a Russian, pickles (with a shot of icy vodka to raise a toast to New Year) are indeed sacré. When one over-indulges, one wants to detox, not in the least to detox spiritually. Here is where Amouage Memoir Man comes in. With notes of basil, mint, lavender, absinthe, frankinsence, leather and a whole bunch of other good stuff, on me it basically smells of piney insense. The chilly herbs are fairly pronounced, the leather is not, the base is all cedarwood...but overall my impression is just that- cold, piney incense. This is the scent of a brisk walk in the morning, the kind of morning that Pushkin described as "frost and sunshine"...the snow is shining, the air is biting your throat with its iciness...everything is suddenly clear and quiet in your head and your soul...you walk through a pine forest to a small wooden church, you inhale the incense, you are at peace with yourself and the world... A bit of a jump from Rego Park, Queens, to Pushkin's Russia, but hey, such is a transportive power of perfume. Quite possibly, neither of the fragrances smell on me as creators intended, but hey, that's skin chemistry and cultural background for ya. And finally, expertly and seriously written reviews these were not, but hey, Holidays should be fun. Which fragrances smell on you like nothing you'd expect from the list of notes, surprising you with odd associations? Do share! Coeur de Vetiver Sacre is available at Barneys, $135.00 for 100ml; Memoire Man can be found at Luckyscent, $260.00 for 100ml. Image is by Steven Meisel.

Like the corner of..: Memoire Man by Amouage

By Tom Amouage is a house that I just can't seem to get my head around. The ones that we get here are very good, mind you. But I sort of feel as if they are treading ground that has been tramped by others and that at least some of that $225 for 50ML is going into the admittedly luxurious packaging. Personally I'm the sort that likes to feel the money goes into the juice and therefore on my skin; you won't find me buying a bottle of champagne in some special be-dazzled crystal bottle. In the interest of keeping the stuff fresh I keep my fumes in a dark closet so satin-finished gold caps and hand-blown artisanal bottles are wasted on me. Memoire Man is rather wasted on me as well. No fault of its own; the basil and mint opening is smooth and green, the middle lavender is touched by anise and the creamy woody base has real and discernible oakmoss. What's not to love? $225 for 50ML is not to love. Especially when there a little scent that's been around for over 100 years that's doing the super-suave French thing far better and is can be had for a quarter of the price (at least until it's reformulated, which might have already happened Grrr) I'm told that Amouage has some truly knock-your-socks-off scents that haven't made it here yet. I hope one day they do. Memoire Man is $225 for 50ML and $260 for 100ML at LuckyScent; $285 for 100ML at Aedes de Venustas. My sample was from LuckyScent. Mouchoir de Monsieur is available at various sources on the internets for less than $100. My decant was purchased at The Perfumed Court. I want to take a moment and thank all of the readers of this blog for all the kind support they've shown me over the years I've been contributing. I've enjoyed every second of it and look forward to continuing into the new year. Also a hearty thanks to Marina, who lets me whinge on and on here with nary an edit. Happy Holidays to you all! Image - from Guerlain's Holiday Greeting Card.

The Dog Days...Amouage Relection for Men

By Tom The July 4th weekend was lovely here in Los Angeles: the leftover "June Gloom" kept the temps under 80 and made the evenings cool. Back East where I grew up it's been just this side of, well, hell. Triple digit temps with humidity, and notices from the powers that be that due to low-hanging ozone one should avoid breathing when outdoors. This is weather I moved away from. One of the ways to deal with the heat has always been to keep some light, refreshing scent in the icebox to spritz or splash on when you are at the point where the heat makes you want to mainline iced vodka or commit seppuku with a sharpened popsicle. Back when it was good, 4711 was a candidate. Eau d'Hadrien or Eau Sauvage is one as well. Amouage Reflection for Men might deserve some space in the Frigidare as well. According to Marina it was created in 2007 and the scent has notes of red pepper berries, rosemary, bitter orange leaves, orris, jasmine, neroli, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver and compares it to "sun rays playing on the surface of the ocean". It does have a beachy, summery vibe to it without being literally aquatic; the sharp vetiver is balanced by the softly sensual woods in the drydown while the rosemary and orange nicely balance the neroli. The fly in the ointment is of course the price: $225 definitely takes this one out of the "splash away" category that something less expensive might engender. But then again this might be a bit strong to be thrown all over the place. Amouage still hasn't convinced me that $225 for 50ML is a great idea. This one might have gotten me the closest. Not quite there, but close. What's your default icebox refresher, splash on or swallowed? I'm leaning towards Guerlain Vetiver and an icy G&T these days.. At Amazon and Luckyscent. I was given a sample by a generous friend.

Caron Parfum Sacré and Amouage Lyric Woman: Battle of the Diva Roses

By Donna I have been doing a lot of testing recently, with so many sample vials in the pipeline that I am wearing something different almost every day, and sometimes it's several samples at a time. This is good in one way, since my curiosity about perfume is virtually insatiable; on the other hand, sometimes I get so caught up in trying new scents that my old favorites don't get the attention they deserve. Naturally I am constantly adding new favorites to the list all the time, even though most of these never get to the stage of a full bottle purchase. I just don't have that kind of budget, or the space in which to store them. A fragrance that is new to me, whether it's vintage, something that has been on the market for awhile or a brand new introduction, has to be a real knockout to get on my short list of things I would actually consider buying, especially when it's a newer one that cannot be had for a discounted price. When I make one of my rare full price bottle purchases, it's because the perfume is truly outstanding and something I have fallen seriously in love with. One perfume I never want to be without has been in my collection for twenty years now, the 1990 masterpiece by the house of Caron, Parfum Sacré. For me it is ageless, timeless, unique, sensuous and majestic. Even though it is finally warming up to real spring weather where I live, I have had an urge to wear it a lot as an antidote to random sampling, to remind me of what a truly great perfume can be; it's one of those perfumes that I get a true craving for and when that feeling hits, nothing else will do. It is also very powerful, and must be applied with restraint if I am planning to go out in public, but if I have a day (or night) at home, I spray it on liberally. For me it is one of those mind-altering, transporting scents that are rarely encountered, and yet the quest to find such a one is what drives me, and other fragrance lovers, to seek out yet more new things to try in search of that elusive experience. Parfum Sacré's rosy beauty is wrapped in a Byzantine cloak of classic Oriental elements such as vanilla, musk, civet, myrrh and frankincense, embellished with a generous twist of black pepper. I think of it as being primarily a rose perfume, although it's not really a rose soliflore at all but an Oriental rose blend in which the rose takes center stage instead of being a seamless part of the whole. Yet its composition is seamless indeed, and it's not a realistic rose by any means. In spirit and somewhat in character it resembles the original version of Lancôme's Magie Noire, Paloma Picasso's Mon Parfum or Guerlain's peerless holographic rose Nahema, rich and opulent fragrances that are anything but dewy floral re-creations of rose blossoms. They are more like rose Rembrandts; chiaroscuro works of art whose dark complexity makes them objects of desire. I have been wearing my Parfum Sacré with more than my usual frequency since I just acquired another bottle of the original formula; yes, sadly it has been redone, and not in a good way. (If you want to buy this, look for the EDT in the solid gold box or the EDP in the gold-spangled black box, and the old broad-based bottle style with the large ivory-toned cap. You will probably have to go online and search these out.) Now another contender in this exclusive “diva rose” category (I also call them “bombshell rose” perfumes) has caught my attention. I opened my sample of Amouage Lyric Woman (2008) that I received in a swap and it took my breath away. For some reason I had the idea in my head that Lyric was one of the “lesser” Amouage feminine scents (although they are all good, some are great) and not up to the standard of Gold, Ubar or Epic. I had no idea it was this good! Its basic structure is much like that of the Caron, but its spicy side is comprised of saffron, ginger and cardamom instead of black pepper, and the signature Amouage frankincense note is somewhat softer and less obvious. The rose is truly exquisite and it is that same type of lustrous Oriental rose essence that lies at the heart of Parfum Sacré. Its character is that of a red Damask rose, almost smoky in its intensity, as dense as though it were made of rose petal preserves meant to be consumed. Joining it are luscious jasmine and ylang-ylang, along with iris root and fresh, sweet angelica, a note that I really love and which gives real distinction to this perfume. Among the many base notes in this composition are sandalwood, Tonka bean, musk, vetiver and yes, real oakmoss! (The house of Amouage does not bow to IFRA pressure, which another reason to admire and support this house.) The longer I wear Lyric Woman the better it gets, and the more the incense note wraps itself around my nose, captivating me utterly. The rose keeps weaving in and out, never really going away but retreating behind the incense and woody notes only to come dancing out again in a swirl of pillowy sweetness. Every time I put my nose to my wrist I get something different; I know that the listed notes are only a few of the many high quality ingredients that must be in it to create this effect. It is fascinating, captivating, sexy as hell and definitely in the same class as Gold or my favorite Amouage, Ubar, of which I prefer the original to the reintroduction but both are fabulous. The second time I tested Lyric Woman, I left it on overnight, and in the morning I was greeted by a truly delightful sensation. The rose was still there, not just the base notes, and it had turned into a sheer, misty abstract rose reminiscent of Rochas Tocade, but it was floating on a puffy cloud of incense instead of vanilla, perfectly combined with the rose. This “second perfume” was just as wonderful as it was on the first day. Lyric Woman has impressive sillage and excellent longevity on me, which is to be expected of this Oriental floral style, and a little goes a long way. That's good, because this is expensive perfume, and the 50 ml size sells for over $200 USD; it can be found for a little bit less if you do some comparison shopping, but you will not find a real bargain, and understandably, since it is relatively new and composed of the finest materials available. For those who can afford it, it's really worth the money, more so than many other perfumes that cost as much or more. You could think of it as a bargain of sorts, because you will definitely wear it. It will not sit on the shelf and gather dust after a few wearings because it was disappointing. If I had a bottle of this I would do exactly the same thing with it as I do with Parfum Sacré. I would behave myself in public, wearing only a discreet dab, but in private I would use it lavishly, even excessively. After all, that's what real divas do. Full disclosure: Parfum Sacré is from my personal collection. Lyric Woman was a private sample received as a gift. Amouage perfumes can be purchased from the Amouage Web site or at finer perfume shops such as Luckyscent. Caron perfumes are sold at better perfume shops and department stores. Image credit: “Flamenco Dancer” by British artist Gerry Langton, via gerrylangton.co.uk

Tribute Attar by Amouage

By Marian Frost-encrusted branches of blue spruce, laden with such mountains of snow- I wonder why they don't break. Moonlight crystallizes them and they sparkle with galaxied rapture. I emerge from the forest into a mossy clearing- the ground there soft and yielding. I spread my cloak atop the lichen and burrow my face into earth's musky, heaving bosom. In the distance the sound of an organ creeps into the night, it's deep bellows expansively glorifying. The dark, balsamic scent of incense curls between the ancient stones- beckoning; caressing. I follow its warm, spicy and resinous song. The sanctuary is bejeweled with jasmines and purple roses, their sweetness more delicate and brilliant than the silver-laced candlesticks guarding their ripe beauty. Like shadows seeking mates in heaven their limpid nectar drifts spirewards. Could the moon be lit by the wings of angels, to so brightly drench the year-worn pews in these vibrant rainbows of light? Emerald, ruby, golden patterns melt upon the years-rubbed wood. Jeweled puddles commune in glass-stained splendor. To whom, to what, should I pay tribute for such glorious harmony of the senses and the heart? I kneel down, and await an answer. It's not often that I'm happy to spend $350 for a bottle of perfume, but Tribute is worth every (scent) cent. Notes: Rose Taifi, Jasmine, Saffron, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Tobacco, Leather, Patchouli, Vetiver. Available at Luckyscent, $350.00-$650.00. Image source, Vogue Italy.

Al Shomoukh Attar by Amouage

By Marian Although I’m not generally fond of smoky fragrances, I am enthralled by Al Shomukh’s smoldering sensuality. The note of pitch tar is a sultry foil to the fruity sumptuousness of davana, and the balsamic freshness of resinous woods beautifully contrasts with the ripe, honeyed rosiness that pervades this voluptuous composition. Vetiver adds an herbal earthiness to the scent, and there are even hints of citrus and cinnamon that keep the sweet, glowing warmth of this lush attar from becoming cloying. Are you a fan of musk? Entwined with the animalic sensuality of oud, musk abyadh, though lacking in true smut, adds a lustiness to the scent that puts it in the sexy, rather than beautiful, category. Al Shomoukh is not a scent for the timid or feint of heart- it is a wild, alluring, and provocatively mysterious blend that is as complex as it is unusual. Slide beneath some satin sheets, change your white light bulb for a pink one, allow Al Shomoukh to penetrate your skin, and see what happens! Notes: Silver Oudh, vetiver, musk abyadh, Taifi rose, davana Available at Selfridges, London $350.00 for 12 ml. Image source, unknown, please let us know if you know the author.

Amouage Epic Woman: Perfume Review

As Fred R. Barnard noted, “an epic is the easiest kind of picture to make badly.” Luckily, Amouage, with its grand mentality, is exactly the kind of line that does epics wonderfully well and short stories not so much. They should therefore completely disobey Hemingway's advice and not "eschew the monumental" or "shun the epic". The new member of Amouage dynasty continues the magnificent lineage with great flair. I am almost tempted to say that, with its unapologetic sumptuousness, it outdoes its great ancestors. And that's a feat of epic proportions in and of itself, as the ancestors include such larger than life creations as Gold, Jubilation 25, Ubar and Lyric. Speaking of Lyric, to me, Epic picks up its ripe, honeyed rose theme and carries it on, embellishing the star note further, and sort of giving the idea its logical closure by making the composition darker and even more extravagantly lush. No, the two are not the same fragrances, but of all Amouage siblings these are probably the closest in spirit. The embellishments in question are oud and frankincense. The funny thing is that, at the very first sniff from a vial or a on scent strip, the scent is undeniably an oud-rose blend. As soon as it is applied to the skin, however, incense takes center stage, and I like that. There are plenty rose-ouds and not that many rose-incenses. The nocturnal, resinous frankincense note delights me with its presence for a good long while, sort of covering the rose like a black curtain. Eventually the curtain is lifted and there is the flower, sweet, over-ripe, spicy with cinnamon and geranium, brewed with black tea and vanilla into a seductive potion. It is a delicious, edible, sensual and yet appropriately regal rose. If you are looking for more oud, you will find more in the base, along with some dirt from patchouli and some more nectareousness from amber and sandalwood. Those afraid of the sweetness, note that it is well balanced by the drier, stark notes of frankincense, gaiac and oud. Cuminophobiacs, to you I can only say that there was no cumin on my skin (not that I would have minded some). All fans of the Big Perfumes in general and Amouage's decadent oeuvre in particular, Epic is a must-sniff and, as far as I am concerned, a must-have. Available at amouage.com, €195-€230, and coming soon to Luckyscent. Image credits, Miles Aldridge, Amouage.

Amouage Lyric Man

By Tom Sheer laziness this week and the butt end of the flu made me not want to actually venture out of the house much this weekend. Luckily I have samples that I got but for some reason never reviewed, for one reason or another. Lyric Man is one of them, and one sniff reminded me why: While Colombina's description is sooo divine, the last paragraph reads just like me. Well, perhaps the Harlequin Romance version of me. The fragrance is a very nice one, mind you. A lovely rose that's backed by demure spices and creamy woods. I guess my only problem with it is frankly price. At $245 for 50MLs I am unconvinced. I suppose the idea is that since it's only about another $50 to double the size I should consider the larger one a bargain, but I am afraid that there are other roses out there that do this sort of thing in a more definite and for me more interesting way for less money, like Rose d'Homme or Le Labo Rose 31. For that matter, I think if I was in a mood for roses in this vein, knowing my dark brooding heart (which is I am sure in there somewhere..) I might just go for broke and spritz a tiny bit of dear Uncle Serge's paen to the flower layered with a little Gris Clair. Two for the price of one and you got basically the same effect. Amouage $245 for 50ML, $290 for 100 ML at LuckyScent. (100ML available at Aedes) Gris Clair and Sa Majeste La Rose $120 for 50ML at Aedes, LuckyScent and Barneys Rose 31 $130 for 30ML at Le Labo and LuckyScent Rose d'Homme $125 for 100ML, at Aedes

Amouage Ubar: Perfume Review

Ubar is a re-introduction of the 1995 perfume with the same name, which, as Amouage justly point out, was "highly acclaimed by fragrance connoisseurs". The fragrance is "inspired by the long lost ancient trading city of Ubar, rediscovered in the sands of Southern Oman in 1992." Lucky to have a sample of the old Ubar, I was able to try the two versions side by side. Ubar 1995, perhaps due to its age (14 years is practically vintage), skips the citrusy top notes almost completely, while the 2009 edition lingers among lemon and bergamot for quite a while. Not only that, but the silvery jingle of lily of the valley can be heard, at this stage of the scent's development, loud and clear. While the old Ubar jumps right into the ripe, honeyed roses and jasmine, sweetened further by vanilla, the new version takes its time, gradually introducing the opulent floral theme through the delicate presence of lily of the valley in the top notes. Slowly, slightly indolic jasmine emerges followed by jammy rose. At this point, the ambiance of the composition changes dramatically, taking the wearer from the sunlit, innocent day into the pitch-black, sensual night. The sensuality, at times dirtiness of the perfume, is in no small measure due to a generous dose of civet in the base notes. Blended with vanilla and rose, the animalic ingredient lends Ubar that ambiguous gourmand/erotic quality that makes one wonder whether one should crave to drink it or to lust after it. Civet also turns the initially fairly modern scent into, dare I say, an old-fashioned one, in the best way possible. With its velvety feel, its unapologetic luxuriousness, its satisfying substantionality, Ubar could be standing next to Shalimar on a chic Parisian shelf, back in 1921. As for the fans of the original Ubar, to sum up my impressions, I would say that the older version is overall heavier on rose, whereas the new one, although still centered on that note, pays more attention jasmine and lily of the valley and places a heavier emphasis on civet-vanilla accord in the drydown. One thing for sure, the devotees of the older version should not worry that the new one has been "watered down" or simplified as is sometimes the case with re-releases. If anything, it has been made more fleshy somehow and perhaps even more complex. It is a must-try for the lovers of floral-oriental-animalic genre and a must-have for me. Ubar is available at Amouage.com, €180-€210, and Luckyscent, $250-$285.

Perfume Review: Amouage Lyric Man

"nothing which we are to perceive in this world equals the power of your intense fragility: whose texture compels me with the color of its countries, rendering death and forever with each breathing" somewhere i have never travelled, ee cummings For women, wearing a rose scent is ordinary, a bit of a cliché even. For men, in the Western parts of the world, daring. Amouage d-double-dares its European and American masculine audience with Lyric Man, a perfume that differs from most men's rose fragrances in that the rose here is not hiding self-consciously behind the virile backs of woods, ouds, leathers and spices. It is boldly at the forefront, in the center, the most prominent note from start to finish. Lyric Man is not a rose soliflore by any stretch of imagination, it is a complex blend; however, the numerous players in the composition never over-crowd or over-power the rose. Citruses in the top notes lend the rose a certain breezy, almost sharp freshness. Ginger, nutmeg and saffron add spice. Angelica, galbanum and pine bring a green-aromatic, dry if not austere element to the composition, counter-balancing the indolent exoticism of spices and vanilla with sharply-tailored, rather urbane classicism. Sandalwood and frankincense in the base enhance both the fresh-green-dry and the creamy-ripe-languid sides of the rose, its fragile crystallinity and its heady intensity. Women who like their roses woody, dark and aromatic will find Lyric Man very easy to wear. As for men...according to Amouage, the scent was meant for a "confident gentleman who dares to desire". Let me add something to that profile: he is a Libra, 6'4" a dark-and-brooding type, appears self-assured and even arrogant, has quite a temper, is intense and complex and vulnerable but will rather die than show his vulnerability ...If it sounds like you, Lyric Man is available at Amouage.com, €165-€205.

Perfume Review: Amouage Lyric Woman

"The search for a perfection beyond reality; the rare and exquisite nature of the lyric-spinto voice that inspires both awe and envy; the sacrifice made in the quest for immortality..." No, you are not reading a synopsis of a Lloyd Webber musical. This is how Amouage introduce their new "deliciously dramatic" fragrance, Lyric Woman. To be fair, the perfume is in fact dramatic. And delicious, in that tantalizingly odd way in which roses can be delicious when they are blended with spices and vanilla. According to Amouage, "Lyric is a floral fragrance, but one that introduces dark intensity" to the genre. Simply put, it is a floral-oriental scent. Or rather oriental-floral, because the spices, the resins and the woods rule the composition. Do not expect a pure, naturalistic rose scent. When the (lyric-spinto?) voice of the rose IS heard in the passionate and perfectly harmonious chorus of other notes, it does sound wonderfully realistic. Those are the glimpses of roses in their natural habitat, in a luxurious garden, with dew glistening alluringly on their crimson petals (hey, I can do over-the-top marketing copy with the best of them!)...but most of the time, Lyric is a masterfully-woven tapestry, or perhaps more appropriately in this case - a carpet. At times you can recognize the flowers in the abstract ornaments but mostly they blend into the ornate, magnificently intricate design. It may or may not be apparent from this review, but I am in love with Lyric. I don't like naturalistic rose scents and, as those close to me would unhappily confirm, I love drama. I also appreciate complex compositions. Lyric has a multitude of facets: there is a fresh, slightly sharp floral part fronted by jasmine and geranium, the mouthwatering spicy side of cardamom, cinnamon and ginger, the sweet, edible fluffiness of vanilla, tonka bean and orris, the dark sensuality of wood and frankincense...And this host of voices is tied together with the velvety ribbon of rose, and what could have been cacophony becomes breathtaking harmony. Lyric Woman was created by Daniel Maurel. I would be curious to find out what other perfumes were done by Maurel and from now on will be eagerly awaiting his new scents. Lyric collection also includes a masculine scent, Lyric Man, by Daniel Visentin: a fresher, spicier and equally beautiful blend, which continues the Phantom of the Opera theme by recounting "the myth of a beautiful young woman and a powerful, mysterious man who seeks to immortalise the beauty of her voice." But more on that at a later date... Lyric Woman and Man are available at amouage.com, for €185-€220 and €165-€205 respectively.

Perfume Review: Amouage Jubilation 25...and a Prize Draw

The recent Amouage releases for women, from Eau and Esprit d’Amouage to Reflection, were underwhelming for me, not living up to the high standards of what I consider to be Amouage “classics”, Gold, Dia and Ciel. Actually, the quotation marks are not necessary here, because, as far as I am concerned, the latter three are indeed classic scents, since they possess the timeless quality of true classics which lifts them above trends and fashions. In contrast, the later offerings from the company were nothing but nods to trends, attempts at appealing to the young, fresh- and fruity- loving audience. To me, they robbed the line off its regal, luxurious, elegantly exotic splendor. When a company decides to become young, hip and/or approachable for wider audience (and I am not talking prices here, heaven knows, there is a lot of overpriced fruity-floral drivel on the market), it is all downhill from there, with scents going from bad to worse (I wanted to cite Dior here as an example, but I still haven’t smelled the three new scents, and so I will hold my peace.). Long story short, I did not have high expectation for the Jubilation collection, created to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the House of Amouage. I don’t think I have ever been proved more wrong …except for that one time when I was told that the White House did not in fact have an electromagnetic force field protecting it…but I digress. With Jubilation 25, Amouage is back to its former magnificent self. As much as I admire Gold and love Dia, I am almost tempted to say that the new women’s perfume is even better. Jubilation 25, while retaining the sublimely elegant spirit of earlier creations, has a much more pronounced exotic feel, and in that, it seems to me better representative of the House. Gold and Dia seemed to me utterly European, or just French, if you will. In Jubilation 25, West finally meets East and the Omani origin of the line becomes much more obvious. It is as if Femme Rochas and Lutens’s Arabie had a passionate love affair, which resulted in a child who inherited Femme’s chic voluptuousness and the very French élan and Arabie’s dark good looks and tantalizing mysteriousness. Jubilation 25 smells like a Perfume supposed to. “A woman should smell like a woman, and not like a rose”, said Coco Chanel (quoted in Michael Edwards Perfume Legends, page.45), in other words, a Perfume should not be obvious. A Perfume should smell complex, it should make you wonder what IS it that makes it what it is, and almost not wanting to find out. With notes of tarragon, rose, lemon, ylang-ylang, davana, labdanum, frankincense, amber, musk, vetiver, myrrh and patchouli, Jubilation is a complex blend, intricate and harmonious. In contrast to the relatively fresh top notes, the heart seems shockingly full-bodied. The creaminess of ylang and the booziness of davana, combined with an ambery accord and the sweet, sweet myrrh, create an effect of astonishing richness. Add to that patchouli and what I would swear is cumin, and it all is almost Too Much! But here is where the perfumer’s (Lucas Sieuzac, whose future in perfume, judging by this scent alone, is dazzlingly bright) magic comes into play. I don’t know what it is that keeps the extravagant opulence within the limits of endurable; I don’t know what – miraculously! - makes the scent as sublimely elegant as it is robustly luxurious, but something does. Perhaps the spirit of the great Edmond Roudnitska has been watching over the creation. Refined and lavish, exquisitely classic and alluringly exotic, luxe, calme et volupté, Jubilation 25 is THE best scent to come out this year …no, make it the last couple of years. If the praise seems excessive, it is because it is deserved. Please try it, when you can. In fact, let’s have a prize draw. If you would like to receive a sample of Jubilation 25, please say so in your comment. Three winners, randomly chosen, will receive a small vial of the scent each. I haven’t done this in a while, but the perfume demands for it to be done…and so I am leaving you with Baudelaire’s Invitation to the Voyage, the poem that transports me to the same –golden, idyllic, seductive- place as Jubilation: My child, my sister, Think of the rapture Of living together there! Of loving at will, Of loving till death, In the land that is like you! The misty sunlight Of those cloudy skies Has for my spirit the charms, So mysterious, Of your treacherous eyes, Shining brightly through their tears. There all is order and beauty, Luxury, peace, and pleasure. Gleaming furniture, Polished by the years, Will ornament our bedroom; The rarest flowers Mingling their fragrance With the faint scent of amber, The ornate ceilings, The limpid mirrors, The oriental splendor, All would whisper there Secretly to the soul In its soft, native language. There all is order and beauty, Luxury, peace, and pleasure. See on the canals Those vessels sleeping. Their mood is adventurous; It's to satisfy Your slightest desire That they come from the ends of the earth. — The setting suns Adorn the fields, The canals, the whole city, With hyacinth and gold; The world falls asleep In a warm glow of light. There all is order and beauty, Luxury, peace, and pleasure. (Translated by William Aggeler) Jubilation 25 is available at Amouage.com, €190.00- €225.00. According to Christopher Chong, the creative director of Amouage, the Jubilation collection will launch in the US in 2008.

Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 7

Part 7 of the Perfume Stars series brings us the favorite summer fragrances and ideal holiday destinations of … René Schifferle, LesNez What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “My favorite summer fragrances are citruses or vetivers. Citrus is fresh and vetivers cooling. My first citrus was Eau Sauvage by Edmond Roudnitska, which goes back to my first trip to the south of France in the early seventies. I had bought it before leaving, just as I was going to do on many holidays and trips in the future. A new fragrance to go with the year and the place. I still do this sometimes today. I had not known then, that Maitre Roudnitska had composed Eau Sauvage just a few miles up the road from Cannes in his house "Sainte Blanche" in the mountains near Cabris. What a coincidence, I had brought the right fragrance to the right place. It is still able to bring me back there ...” What is your favorite holiday destination? “Discovering France - whenever I have a few days. There are so many different landscapes, climates, châteaux, museums, people and markets. It never stops.” Francis Kurkdjian What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “I have three favorite scents: Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès created by Françoise Caron, Eau de Rochas created by Nicolas Mamounas and Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal. I like to use them as a splash. They are light so I can reapply all day long.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “No special places in the world but I like hanging out with friends, taking my time reading, cooking, having fun all together. I have couple of places that I like though, Beyruth (Lebanon), the Family House near Bordeaux, a friend's house in Sevilla (Spain).” Peter Milsted, Art of Perfumery What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? Favorite Summer fragrances for Women are: “Cool Water Summer, a beautiful sparkling invigorating yet soft feminine perfume. Another favourite is the Kenzo summer variant which has the pure and sensual note of mimosa leaving a trail of sweet memories. And of course the Art of Perfumery N°3 which is a delicate white floral with a beautiful accord of lily of the valley giving every woman an aura of serenity and peace.” Favorite summer fragrances for men: Eau Sauvage from Christian Dior will always be one of Milsted’s favourite classic cologne, full of citrus and wood, perfect for hot summer evenings. “Art of Perfumery N°4 is the other ideal summer fragrance with superb modern ozonic accords combined with aromatic notes giving fresh radiant energy.” What is your favorite holiday destination? Marrakech/Morocco, Gorges du Verdon/France and his own Provencale garden in the South of France, near Grasse! Christopher Chong, Amouage What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “This is a difficult question for me because I don't like classifying fragrances according to seasons. I prefer to wear what my mood dictates on the day. I know this sounds pretentious...hahaha. It's extremely difficult for me to get into the summer season in the UK at the moment since it has been so wintry lately. To answer your question, if I am feeling summery my favourite fragrances would be Amouage's Ciel and Reflection. However, I am not entirely biased towards Amouage. One of my favourites is Chanel No 18. It reminds me of a sultry summer in Tuscany with a gin and tonic in my hand.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “Again, I am going to be difficult. You have to forgive me. I don't have a favourite holiday destination because it takes me so long to unwind from the intensity of my job that by the time I begin to feel relaxed my holiday is already over. However, I would feel guilty if I don't answer your question properly. One of my favourite holiday destinations is trekking in Nepal. It was such a magical experience in which body, soul and nature are fused as one unity. I love destinations that offer me the opportunity to explore myself and also to enrich my understanding of their cultures and mysticism.” Autumn Asbury, La Creme Beauty What are you favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? My favorite summer fragrances are always changing, must admit I’m not very faithful when it comes to scent. I’ve been loving the Loree Rodkin Gothic fragrances, there is something very sexy to me about the richness of her fragrances mingling with the heat and humidity. For a different feel I have also been wearing Yosh White Flowers which is so fresh and clean without being soapy and her U4EAHH!! which is very playful. I also love the scent of suntan lotion in the summer especially Hawaiian Tropics & Bain de Soleil…it let’s me know summer is here. I read once that one of Frederic Malle’s favorite smells was Bain de Soleil…I found that I had a little soft spot for him after reading that. What is your favorite holiday destination? Unfortunately holidays are far and few between but I love Hawaii for it’s flowers and lush greenness and Greece for being able to pick the most amazing fresh lemons and it’s herbaceous scented mountains…I think most people just think of the water when it comes to Greece. Both places are not only beautiful visually but are full of gorgeous aromatics. I’m sure all my fellow fragrance fanatics can appreciate that aspect of travel. Images courtesy of René Schifferle, Art of Perfumery.

Perfume Review: Amouage Reflection For Men and Reflection For Women

I have been very vocal in expressing my disapproval of the choice for the new James Bond. (Mr Colombina will tell just how vocal.) It was my strong belief that Bond has to be dark-haired and, although being quite macho, has to posses a suave sort of elegance and refinement. Daniel Craig is blond and looks like a) East End thug or b) a New Russian with a little bit of a murky past...which, come to think of it, are more or less the same thing. At first I refused to watch the new Bond movie, then decided I will give it a go, just so that I could make lots of very snarky comments during and after the seance. Mr Colombina will again tell you that apart form the initial hrmph at the very first sighting of Craig, no cutting remarks were forthcoming. I hate to be proved wrong and I hate to admit to my mistakes, but...I was wrong about Craig, and the movie turned out to be much, much better than the last...oh, 6-7 Bond films. A 007 movie will never be credible, an element of absolute impossibility of stunts and events has to be present, else it will not be a Bond movie anymore, but the last couple of films took the series from the land of impossible to the surreal landscape of utter nonsense. Casino Royale somehow managed to be almost believable, and I think that it is largely due to Daniel Craig's acting and - yes!- the way he looks. He brought a certain matter-of-factness, down-to-earthiness and an endearing human quality to the character. He is the Bond Next Door...He does still looks too me like a New Russian with criminal past, he is rough around the edges, but this ruggedness miraculously works in his favor in the role and does not prevent him from looking swoon-worthy in a tuxedo. So why am I rambling on about Bond? Well, I smelled the new Amouage, Reflection for Men not long after watching Casino Royale, and I strongly recommend that the Bond people consider making it the "official" Bond scent. In the next movie Bond should be asked by his girl what cologne he is wearing, and the answer should be, Amouage, Reflection Amouage. Created by Lucas Sieuzac, the scent has notes of red pepper berries, rosemary, bitter orange leaves, orris, jasmine, neroli, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver. Many masculine fragrances are built on a potentially very attractive contrast of cold and warm, fresh and spicy, but not all can pull it off. Reflection works that contrast and works it well. The beginning edges on being aquatic, but never actually oversteps the mark; it is cool and bracing, like a dive into azure-blue sea. The spiciness is apparent from the start, and, as always, the creators are not telling us the whole truth, because there is much more to that spicy accord than just red pepper berries. I most definitely smell cardamom and even a little bit of saffron. The piquancy here is not dry and sharp but rather soft, warm and "golden"...sun rays playing on the surface of the ocean...Neroli is quite strong in the heart of the fragrance, contributing to the sun-drenched, summery feel. The woods, combined with the spices, are quite stunning, resinous, enveloping, sensual. The fragrance is virile and unexpectedly soft at the same time...an image of a macho man with abs of steel and a tender, loving heart. Because of that softness and smoothness it is not actually unwearable for a woman. I fully intend to force Mr Colombina to wear it (he fancies himself a bit of a Bond anyway, what man doesn't?), but I will wear it myself, with much pleasure. Reflection for Women, created by none other than the wonderful Maurice Roucel, would be quite appropriate for a Bond girl. Those are always pictured emerging from the sea or frolicking in the water, and this fresh green-fruity-floral with a very strong aquatic vibe will therefore be just perfect. With notes of water violet, purple freesia, tropical green leaves, Roucel's beloved magnolia, jasmine, amber, cedarwood and sandalwood, the perfume smells young and fresh. The beginning is cold and slightly salty, very marine indeed. It has an attractive greenness that compliments the aquatic quality while at the same time taking the metallic edge off it. The heart is floral-fruity, with trademark Roucel magnolia aplenty. The fresh accord runs through the composition, bringing the cold feeling even to the ambery-woody base. Those who like this sort of cool, dewy floral-fruity scents, will most probably adore Reflection for Women. It is most decidedly not my kind of scent. Of the two, I much prefer the men's version, of which I would love to own a bottle. Both Reflection fragrances are available at parfumsraffy.com, $175.00 for 50ml of men's and $190.0 for 50ml of women's.

Perfume Review: Amouage Ciel

Ciel is “the spring fragrance” in the Amouage range of perfumes. You can find more background information on this luxurious line started in 1980s by His Highness Sayyid Hamad bin Hamoud al bu Said, the Sultan of Oman, as a means of revival of Oman’s perfume tradition, in my review of Amouage Gold. As far as I understand, Guy Robert is the nose behind all Amouage fragrances, including Ciel (correct me if I am mistaken). Oman has always been the source of the best (silver) frankincense and, to honor that fact, frankincense is present in most Amouage perfumes. Ciel is no exception, however once again, the precious accord is too faint, too overwhelmed by other notes, for me to get to know and to enjoy it. Infinitely more wearable and fit for everyday life than majestic Gold, Ciel is still quite a rich and sensual floral bouquet with notes of gardenia, cyclamen, violet leaves, peach, waterlily, rose, jasmine, amber, musk, cedarwood, sandalwood, and the elusive frankincense. I rather enjoy the beginning of Ciel, it starts green (violet leaves) and creamy (gardenia), and has a vaguely tropical, happy, holiday feel to it. Peach is quite evident at the middle stage and pairs nicely with the sweet rose note, with jasmine being but a hint somewhere in the distance. My only complaint is the waterlily note, which appears just before the drydown and brings with it an unwelcome metallic and aquatic accord. It stays for a while, but when it finally disappears, the drydown of Ciel, though, to my nose, devoid of any hint of frankincense, is a rich and somehow spicy, savory almost, blend of amber, musk and cedar. Even though very beautiful, Ciel is not really my type of scent and the price is rather prohibitive, but I cannot help but again admire the bottles. Inspired by ancient Omani culture, they are made of lead crystal and ornamented with sterling silver. Ciel is available at Amouage.com, €175, and at Parfumsraffy, $75.00 – 215.00.

Perfume Review: Amouage Gold

Amouage, which means “waves” in Arabic, suggesting waves of emotion, is the ultra luxurious fragrance line, started by His Highness Sayyid Hamad bin Hamoud al bu Said, the Sultan of Oman, as a means of revival of Oman’s perfume tradition. Thousands of years ago, the incense from Southern Arabia was one of the most prized substances, valued as highly as gold. Allegedly, the best incense has always originated from the Dhofar in today’s southern Oman. This incense is known as “silver (frank)incense”, which Pliny described as “brilliant white and gathered at dawn in drops or tears in the shape of pearls” and praised as the purest incense. (With the exception of Eau d’Amouage and Esprit d’Amouage, frankincense is present in all Amouage fragrances.) The master perfumer Guy Robert (creator of Dioressense, Caleche, Madame Rochas) was given the task to create “the most valuable perfume in the world”, sparing no expense. According to Amouage literature, Guy Robert describes Amouage (Gold) as his “symphony”, “the crowning glory” of his career. Gold is said to be an all-natural fragrance composed of over 120 ingredients, including the legendary silver frankincense, as well as rock rose, lily of the valley, myrrh, orris, jasmine, ambergris, civet, musk, cedar and sandalwood. I must admit that, however hard I try to catch a whiff of the famous silver frankincense, I am unable to smell it in the top and middle notes. The incense and wood are overwhelmed by the heady, opulent florals. Rose and jasmine are most prominent on my skin, and I also smell a vaguely fruity note, which may perhaps be apricot, as well as, at the middle stage, an even more vague citrus accord. When the drydown comes, if I try very hard, I can actually smell hints of myrrh and frankincense, but still, the two are weighed down by the rich floral notes and there is no way for me to get to know and to savor the precious silver frankincense. Gold is undoubtedly a striking, grand scent, it is a regal blend worthy to be worn with the most magnificent evening gown, in the most lavish surroundings. It is a Classic Scent, by which I mean that it is an imposing floral bouquet, and the luxurious surrounding it brings to my mind are those somewhere in Paris, not in an Arabic palace. There is nothing at all exotic and Arabian in it, to my nose. That is my only complaint regarding Gold, apart from that it is a gorgeous scent that would be stunning in the right circumstances, worn on the appropriate occasion. Since I do not anticipate being invited to mingle with Kings and Sultans in Paris, let alone in Oman, in a foreseeable future, and since nothing less majestic would be worthy of this scent, I cannot possibly justify buying a bottle. But what glorious bottles are those! Created by Asprey’s of Bond Street, London, the limited edition range of Gold bottles is made of sterling silver and plated with 24 carat gold, the “regular” bottles are made of lead crystal adorned with 24 carat gold. The design had roots in ancient Omani culture. The cap was inspired by the minarets of the mosques of Muscat and the panels on the bottle were taken from a thousand years old Omani door design. Gold is available at Amouage.com, €192.00 – 290.00 and at Parfumsraffy, $84.00- 395.00, depending on the size and concentration.