Memories –Comme Des Garcons Series 3 Incense Avignon

By Olfactoria I used to go o church every Sunday as a child, and on high holidays like Christmas or Easter I went for up to five days in a row. (Easter is a busy time for Catholics.) There were times when I protested, but mostly I just went to avoid strife and because, later on, I found ways to enjoy myself like playing the violin in the church orchestra or singing in the choir. Making music in church was great. Also, I was a Girl Guide and we all had parents who sent us to church regularly, so we teamed up and together it was almost a party, albeit a quiet one of whispered conversations an hushed giggling in the back rows. Catholicism played a huge role in my childhood and the scent of incense is closely bound with those memories. But many incense fragrances I like evoke the outdoors (like Tauer Incense Extreme or Armani Privè Bois d’Encens), are calmly meditative (like CdG Kyoto or Heeley Cardinal) or combined with other interesting materials and thus deflecting my associations away from incense that was used in the church of my youth. Not so Avignon. Avignon is the incense of Sundays past, the direct path into my memories, one spray of Avignon and I see our beloved, old, now passed away, priest standing there and swinging the censer. All the smells, bells and costumes are instantly back with a whiff ofAvignon. Created by none other than Bertrand Duchaufour in 2002, Avignon includes notes of Roman chamomile, cistus oil, elemi, incense, vanilla, patchouli, palisander and ambrette seeds. Avignon opens with incense and myrrh, deep, somber, holy. It widens into a dark resinous heart, rich and smoky, later it calms considerably drying down to a woody incense with a hint of vanilla on the edges. For me it is all there: the old wooden pews, the cool, slightly stale air, the incense of course, the burning candles, the flowers on the altar and the many, many people in their Sunday best avidly listening, thinking of entirely wordly matters or some even silently asleep. What I liked best during a service, when I was still a small child and had not yet grown into my other in-mass occupations, was looking at people. It was very interesting to watch their behavior, watch their faces and imagine their stories. There was “Bear-Man”, a huge older man, with the stature of a boxer and the nose to match, was very fascinating in that he managed to irritate many a pious woman in his vicinity with his incessant and completely unapologetic snoring. He was fast asleep during most of the early eighties, as far as I could see. Then there was a woman I called “Die schöne Helena” in my head, because I thought she was exactly like Helen of Troy, the most beautiful woman in history. I had read about her and was fascinated with her beauty and power over men. The Helena in my church was standing out of the crowd, when she entered the church, a hush fell over the crowd, men and women alike, although for entirely different reasons, stared at her and followed her down the aisle with their gazes. So did I. One time she sat in the row before me and my family. She was wearing a red coat and a black fur shawl. Her long blonde hair was open and flowed down her back. My mother looked slightly scandalized whenever Helena swung back her mane of golden hair. I remember wanting to touch it and sitting in an undecided agony of tension for the entire service. Every time she swung her hair over her shoulders, I got a whiff of the most delicate scent, soft and flowery. I decided then and there that I wanted to grow my hair long. This was a point of endless discussions with my mother from then on. As soon as she could not object any more I grew my hair long, and wear it long still. I wish I could see Helena now, I bet she grew old in style. I could go on and on, but realizing this is a perfume review (in theory) and not my memoir, I’d better get back to the subject at hand – Avignon. Avignon is cool, deep and dignified. It is not something you apply without second thought, at least I can’t, when I wear it, it is an occasion to be marked. Avignon is an outstanding fragrance, longlasting, well-made, the reference incense, a necessary part of any Perfumistas collection. But that is just my opinion. Image source: luckyscent.com, vintageadbrowser.com

Gershwin by Maria Candida Gentile

By Marina Maria Candida Gentile is an Italian perfumer with an interesting, so far pleasantly small line-up of fragrances. A stand out for me is Gershwin, a light, melancholy blend of incense and citrus. It might be that the atmosphere of the scent fits my mood, it might be that I am projecting my mood on the scent, but it works wonderfully for me right now. Somewhat similar in concept to Mandy Aftel's Candide, Gershwin is drier and more transparent. The cool, wistful incense note is airy and diaphanous thanks to the presence of  a non-sweet, non-sparkly, oddly somber citrus accord. Candide could have been a smile through tears, Gershwin is not smiling at all. There is an air of beautiful dejectedness about it that I find fascinating. People more familiar with the work of the composer might be able to find an analogy among his compositions. (I just know, for example, that Rhapsody in Blue is too upbeat to be compared to this fragrance.) To me, this perfume is not Gershwin but Gluck, or more precisely J'ai Perdu Mon Eurydice, from Orphee Et Eurydice. Available at liannetioparfums.nl, €125,00 for 100ml. I am hoping to see the line in States one day soon. Image, Orpheus by Francois Louis Francais, is from art.com.

By Kilian Incense Oud Perfume Review

By Marina Tell me if, upon hearing the name, Incense Oud, you did not immediately imagine a powerhouse of a scent. I certainly was bracing myself for a double impact. Let's face it, neither note is exactly quiet. And since both are usually very dominant in any composition they are in, I was looking forward to witness quite a temperamental drama unfold. Well, The Taming of the Shrew (or my favorite version, an Italian take on the classic, Il Bisbetico Domato, with Adriano Celentano and Ornella Muti) sort of passionate love-hate scenario was only in my head. The incense and the oud of the new By Kilian fragrance are existing in utter harmony, possibly because both are utterly understated. Perhaps Katharina and Petruchio (or Elia and Lisa) would've become like that, having learned to accept each other's idiosyncrasies, after years of living together. Perhaps not. In any case, Incense Oud is a soft, warm, cuddly blanket of a scent, as comforting as they come. I would say that incense is somewhat stronger than oud, however, the strongest accord to me is neither of the title ones, but a sandalwoody-ambery blend, which I can smell as soon as the first wonderful hit of spicy, slightly medicinal incense-oud mix in the top notes settles. That medicinal, vaguely valerian-like beginning is my favorite part of the perfume; the comforting base, however, is a delight too. I don't know if I am prepared to pay that much for a comfort scent though, since there are other options available. Would it be like paying the price of a mink throw for a snugglie? Having said all that, this is a graceful scent, masterfully blended with a light hand. I would be curious to hear whether you were disappointed to encounter such a less is more approach in a perfume with incense and oud, from an Arabiain Nights collection or found an understated approach refreshing. Available at Luckyscent and Bergdorf Goodman, $395.00 for 1.7oz.

Candide by Aftelier Perfumes

By Marina Candide was named after the eponymous novel by Voltaire, which, according to Aftelier, has a theme of optimism. Interestingly, optimism is in fact dismissed in the book, and it has been debated by students of Voltaire's work, which philosophy the novel does advocate. Regardless of the name, there is a brightness in Candide the perfume, which in fact gives a wearer a sense of...maybe not optimism...perhaps a certain melancholy upliftedness. One really shouldn't expect any higher degree of positivity from an incense scent. On my skin, frankincense is the dominant note (well, it is 50% incense, on me, 30% jasmine, 17% citruses and 3% spices, to be exact), and perhaps that is why the wonderful yellow brilliance of citruses and jasmine shines as if through a veil. The perfume might be a smile, but the one that shyly appears after many tears. Or another image...and I know that I am awfully unoriginal in equating incense with "church"...sun shining though a stained window of a cathedral, dust trembling, illuminated by this straight line of light...the sun can't get through to all the dark corners, but it gives a certain sense of hopefulness...Without shadows, there wouldn't be light, without having gone through hell, we wouldn't know how happy we are...When a contrast in a perfume is done right, like in Candide, it works wonders not only on skin but also with wearer's emotions and imagination. And how harmonious is the composition! Dark frankincense juxtaposed with luminous grapefruit and orange, softened with sweet jasmine petals, sprinkled with a little bit of spice...Elegance of simplicity and a little bit of perfumer's magic...A perfect perfume for the Holidays... Merry Christmas to all who celebrate! Candide is available at aftelier.com, $45.00-$175.00. Image source, colin200 on flickr.com.

Smoke Gets in Your Eyes: Montale Full Incense

By Tom Other houses are known for keeping the volume down. They will have an incense scent that has wispy curls of smoke, like something half-remembered. Montale isn't one of those houses. I can't think of any other that would dare put out an incense scent that is this full on: the incense in the opening is so rich, so resiny it's almost eye-watering. It's not just church services, it's the church caught fire and burned to the ground before the local fire department could come to its aid, taking with it hymnals, roof beams, flying buttresses and a ten-year stock of the eponymous ingredient. Two little dabs on my hand were strong enough to be smelled from space and lasted longer than Knots Landing did on TV. Need I state that I adore it? Like the best of Montale, it's just so joyously over-the-top that it's impossible not to smile. Like the best of Montale it's also not so over-the-top that it's impossible to wear: just lightly dabbed and not, unless you are either attending or better yet presiding over a High Catholic Mass sprayed on clothing. The notes from LuckyScent are cedar, labdanum, patchouli, elemi and Somali incense. $120 for 50ML, which applied judiciously (which for the sake of those around you I fervently pray you do..) should last until the second coming. Perhaps even the third. My sample was cadged from ScentBar.

House Beautiful

By Marla It’s the dead of winter, 20 below outside, a howling wind, and you just cooked fish with brussels sprouts for dinner. I won’t question your judgment on the menu, but your nose is suffering as you do the dishes. Do you open the window and risk being flash-frozen? No! Here in Northern Europe, we burn papier d’Armenie, small rectangles of paper infused with benzoin resin. This beautiful and practical form of incense has been used here since 1885, when it was developed in Montrouge, France. At that time, it was used both to deodorize, and also to disinfect rooms. Now we realize that the disinfectant part was a bit of wishful thinking, but the deodorizing/scenting function of papier d’Armenie is delightful. For a few years, there was a cancer scare about benzoin/benzene fumes (possibly due to the similarity of the words), but further studies have shown that of at least 72 things you can burn to scent your room, papier d’Armenie is the least likely to cause any health problems, and benzene levels are extremely low. So no worries there. Scent away. Master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has worked with the makers of papier d’Armenie to develop his own line of scented burning papers (Papier Encens), and I was lucky enough to take some home on my recent trip to Paris. I chose the “Lumiere Noire”, made to match his rose and patchouli perfume of the same name. To use the papers, simply tear one from the booklet, fold it accordian style, light one corner, blow it out, and let it smolder in a ceramic pot or holder. Your room will be scented with Lumiere Noire, Aqua Universalis, or APOM for about an hour or so. They’re available at Maison Francis Kurkdjian in Paris, or from his website, for approximately $20 per packet: I’ve also been trying several types of “smokeless incense” from Japan in this cold weather, and have found two brands I really enjoy. The first, Shoyeido’s Xiang Do series, has two scents that have become household favorites, Peppermint and Forest. They burn down without smoke and leave a gentle scent of (guess) peppermint, and conifers. The second is Seikado's Kyoyama Sumi Ink (available at Japanincense.com). The latter smells exactly like the evocative camphor-spiced sumi ink of Zen calligraphy and sells for about $16 for a box of 200 sticks. I’ve tried about a dozen “smokeless incense”, and many do indeed smoke, and many do indeed fume. These two brands deliver, essentially smoke-free. If you’d like to try one of the Kurkdjian papers, please leave a comment, and my house rabbit, Limette, will pick one of you at random. (I learned this technique from Grain de Musc’s cat, Jicky.) If you’d like to try a few sticks of Sumi Ink, let me know in the comments, and Limette will pick one of you.

It’s a Zen Thing

by Marla This is for all you incense-rocking perfumistas who have run through the entire CdG Incense Series at least twice, tried Norma Kamali’s Incense (I love it but YMMV), become jaded with the plethora of oudish perfumes hitting the stores, and are now looking for a new incense fix. Japanese incense body powders are a real departure from Western perfume. They are finely ground medicinal-grade herbs, spices, and woods that are rubbed into the skin. The use of these powders probably began in India for health purposes and to aid meditation; as Buddhism spread, so did the powders. Shoyeido's three grades of incense powders are created from 200-year-old recipes from a temple on Mt. Koya, Japan. They are composed of entirely natural ingredients, which are very finely ground, blended, and aged. The dominant ingredients are cloves, cinnamon, patchouli, sandalwood and borneo camphor. Wearable incense powder is said to increase concentration and improve awareness; this makes them very useful for meditation or study, or perhaps taking exams. I can verify that the clove-laden Johin is effective for mornings when coffee just isn’t doing the job. To use, one applies a small portion of powder on the ear lobes, the wrists, or into one’s hair (this last method is not traditional, it’s mine, and it smells good). The bags of powder are sold by the half-ounce, but can be packed into lovely little round, polished hardwood carriers sold by the incense companies. This makes them very air travel friendly, though I suppose a customs officer, upon discovering your stash, might ask you what the mysterious powder was, and you’d have trouble getting them to believe the truth. Here are Shoyeido’s three grades of powder. I find all of them eminently wearable, and somewhat similar. Johin- at only $6, it’s a huge bargain, it has more clove than the others, is the most masculine and spiciest of the trio. This one will really wake you up, though it’s also the most fleeting; Gokuhin- at $10, still a bargain, with more wood, more patch, less spice, and a little mellower than Johin; Tokusen- the most quiet, the scent practically seamless, elegant and smooth with more sandalwood, more longevity, and the most expensive at $20. Baieido makes Zukoh, with the same basic ingredients as the Shoyeidos. However, there seems to be more cinnamon, with less borneol camphor, and the star anise adds a lovely note. It runs a half-ounce for around $15. The powders are available at the Shoyeido website, and through incense sellers like Sensia and Essence of the Ages (I can vouch for all three companies, though I have no financial connection to any of them). And now for the fun part. I will choose two people at random from the comments, and send them one or two samples of the various powders in my collection. If you have a skin allergy to clove, camphor, cassia, or cinnamon, don’t use these on skin, try putting them on a comfy old T-shirt instead. The draw is now closed.

Amouage Epic Woman: Perfume Review

As Fred R. Barnard noted, “an epic is the easiest kind of picture to make badly.” Luckily, Amouage, with its grand mentality, is exactly the kind of line that does epics wonderfully well and short stories not so much. They should therefore completely disobey Hemingway's advice and not "eschew the monumental" or "shun the epic". The new member of Amouage dynasty continues the magnificent lineage with great flair. I am almost tempted to say that, with its unapologetic sumptuousness, it outdoes its great ancestors. And that's a feat of epic proportions in and of itself, as the ancestors include such larger than life creations as Gold, Jubilation 25, Ubar and Lyric. Speaking of Lyric, to me, Epic picks up its ripe, honeyed rose theme and carries it on, embellishing the star note further, and sort of giving the idea its logical closure by making the composition darker and even more extravagantly lush. No, the two are not the same fragrances, but of all Amouage siblings these are probably the closest in spirit. The embellishments in question are oud and frankincense. The funny thing is that, at the very first sniff from a vial or a on scent strip, the scent is undeniably an oud-rose blend. As soon as it is applied to the skin, however, incense takes center stage, and I like that. There are plenty rose-ouds and not that many rose-incenses. The nocturnal, resinous frankincense note delights me with its presence for a good long while, sort of covering the rose like a black curtain. Eventually the curtain is lifted and there is the flower, sweet, over-ripe, spicy with cinnamon and geranium, brewed with black tea and vanilla into a seductive potion. It is a delicious, edible, sensual and yet appropriately regal rose. If you are looking for more oud, you will find more in the base, along with some dirt from patchouli and some more nectareousness from amber and sandalwood. Those afraid of the sweetness, note that it is well balanced by the drier, stark notes of frankincense, gaiac and oud. Cuminophobiacs, to you I can only say that there was no cumin on my skin (not that I would have minded some). All fans of the Big Perfumes in general and Amouage's decadent oeuvre in particular, Epic is a must-sniff and, as far as I am concerned, a must-have. Available at amouage.com, €195-€230, and coming soon to Luckyscent. Image credits, Miles Aldridge, Amouage.

Czech & Speake Frankincense and Myrrh: Perfume Review

During a stressful time to which perfumes does a non-believer turn for comfort? Why, it's to incense perfumes! Ironic, huh? When I do, I am not looking for them to remind me of any particular churches or associated experiences, I don't want Orthodox or Catholic incense...I just want that melancholy-uplifting, "this too shall pass" quality that few smells apart form frankincense are able to offer. (Yes, it is also ironic that a non-believer finds comfort in the fatalist words of Ecclesiastes.) Czech & Speake's Frankincense and Myrrh is perfect for times like this. It is completely non-denominational. It is spiritual, not religious. The herbal citrusy-ness of the top notes of lemon, orange and basil is refreshing and airy...an open window into the world...without it the composition could have been too heavy in more ways than one. The fruitiness of orange brings out the sweet side of myrrh, and smooths the sharp angles of the dry, bright, resinous frankincense note. There is a certain tarry quality in the perfume that I like, something almost leathery, smoked. It gives the composition the comforting feel of solidity, stability, safety...It makes me believe that "the sun, or the light, or the moon, or the stars, be not darkened, nor the clouds return after the rain." Available at Apothia, Czech & Speake and Luckyscent.

Scents of Time: An Interview with David Pybus. Part II. Historical and Ancient Incense

By Marla I continue my interview with chemist/archaeologist/perfumer David Pybus, of Scents of Time, with some questions about incense: Marla: How is the recreation process different for incense and perfume? David: Burning incense like frankincense (olibanum) for instance, you get over two hundred pyrolysis compounds- 60-plus of which are sesquiterpinoids. It’s highly complex chemistry – and the smokiness adds to the whole appeal…but it’s also all natural. Ask me the difference between natural and synthetic and I would say that there is something about a natural product. A kind of life force that cannot be seen or weighed…but that is what makes the difference and what can make the inhalation of incense smoke energizing or relaxing (depending on the mix). To me good incense is a mind-altering drug that just happens to be legal. Marla: What’s your favorite type of incense and why? David: I use a few different Kohs from Baiedo, (http://www.baieido.co.jp/english) my favourite being Kunshoko. As for why…the aroma is just so appealing to me and brings memories of my stay in Japan to learn the business. Marla: How would you recommend someone go about learning to make incense. David: Go to the masters- Japan/China…my particular recommendations would be Baiedo and Shoyeido. Forget the witchcraft websites! There are plenty of books (including mine). Just type “Kodo” or incense into Google/Amazon. Marla: How does one make sense of the many different (and sometimes contradictory) sources for famous types of incense, such as ancient Egyptian kyphi? Is it possible to find out how it really smelled? David: Again, go to the source. There seems to be a consensus in Egypt about the kyphi formula (forget the witchcraft sites again). Follow that precisely if you have the inkling and re-create your own. But remember, there may be carcinogens/toxins in higher than normal recommended levels in that mix and you are really experimenting with dangers. Especially burning the compound and inhaling the smoke. If in any doubt about any ingredient, leave it out. Marla: Any anecdotes you’d like to share on discovering ancient incense, on the archaeological aspects? David: Incense was mixed and ground in earthenware jars and stored in alabaster and the like. At archaeological sites (especially those preserved by disaster) look for strange ground discolourations around known mixing areas, scoop some up and burn it…is there an aroma reminiscent of powdered incense as opposed to burning dirt…if you think you’ve got something, put it through GLC/MS and see what its constituents are. As far as formulae are concerned, search genuine old books on perfumery and grimoires on alchemy and the like. As the rulers (pharaohs, emperors and the like) were God’s representatives on the planet and liked to smell like him, find a tomb, and you’ll find some incense. Whilst we say you can’t take it with you to the grave and afterlife, they of course did! Finally if you go off on a far flung expedition, make sure you take things with you to either make you go to the loo or stop you going to the loo! Image source, Scents of Time. Note from David Pybus: "I have decided it is easier and less complex webwise to bring the prices down in response to economic situation (...) and so from end of this week as a special spring seasonal offer the following will apply: Ankh 100ml EDT from £55 to £40 (27% discount) Nenufar and Pyxis 100ml EDPs from £60 to £45 (25% discount) Nenufar. Maya and Pyxis 50 ml from £45 to £35 (22% discount) Double packs of 2 x 50 ml mixes of Nenufar/Pyxis, Pyxis/Maya and Maya /Nenufar from £65 to £55 (15%) No coding will be necessary to make the purchases."

Lotus Blossom & Water Lily and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily: The Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone

The Kohdo Wood limited edition collection made a brief appearance in 2008 and has been re-introduced again this year. I managed to miss it last time, so I cannot compare the fragrances, but I assume they were not reformulated. The fragrances are homage to Kohdo, "the ancient Japanese art of incense appreciation". Both, therefore, have a resinous undertone, however, lovers of hardcore incensey incense should not expect to get their fix here. Incense is fairly subtle in both perfumes (stronger in Dark Amber) and serves more as a balancing tool. In the case of Lotus Blossom & Water Lily it balances the fresh wateriness of the floral accord keeping it from becoming too aquatic and too transparent. It gives body to the ethereal composition and infuses it with a hint of darkness. I wrote before that I am in a mood for fresh floral fragrances right now, and LB&WL is exactly what I am in a mood for. The scent is a sip of cold water on a hot day. It is a gauze of pure-white, fragile petals...I could go on. I love it. Jo Malone copy warns about "aquatic nuances", but, even though present, the watery element is not agressive. It is, moreover, a necessary and attractive part of the composition. That wateriness is what evokes an image of lotus and lily, what gives the scent its transluscency and what contrasts so beautifully with the darkness of incense. Sometimes ,the scent is completely dry, cold and "pure" on my skin, sometimes ,the sweetness of freesia, mandarin and lily is more apparent. I love it more when it is coldly innocent. Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is indeed a dark(er) scent. The black angel to the snow-white one of Lotus Blossom. It is sweeter, more full-bodied, a sensual, languid fragrance. It starts with a hit of pepper and ginger, which simultaneously announces both incense (which, to me, has a very obvious peppery undertone) and lily. The floral accord, which includes rose and jasmine, is ripe and candied and brings out both the balsamic sweetness of amber and the heady honey-like quality of ginger lily. Were there no incense to keep it in check, it could have been too sweet. As it is, every ingredient in the composition makes sense in regards to every other ingredients, everything is in there for a reason; I love it when a scent is so well-blended. I don't want to scare anyone off by repeatedly using the word "sweet". DA&GL is indeed sweet, but it is Jo Malone sweet, as in - still rather transparent. To bring down the sweetness, layering with Lotus Blossom works wonders. Both are available for a limited time at Jo Malone boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman, etc., $55.00-$100.00. The collection also includes bath oil and candle in both fragrances.

Kindness of Strangers, and a giveaway

By Tom Roxana Villa was kind enough to send three samples of her new solid perfumes, which are made from essences blended in a base of natural beeswax and jojoba oil. I've already written about Sierra, which I adored. The solid brings the citrus that I didn't smell so much of in the oil to the fore, it lasts longer in that state before going to the glorious coniferous base. Cimbalom is one that I hadn't tried before and would be interested to try the oil of; the solid is peppery ginger and bright orange, which cedes to a lovely patch married with labdanum and jasmine. By far my favorite however is Chaparral; the solid perfume form really shows off the incense portion of the scent. The wildness of the oil is somewhat disciplined by the solid perfume. I notice this with Sierra also; the solid form slows the development of the scent, in the reverse of the sort of time lapse photography showing the speeded up blooming of a rose. The slowed-down minuet Chaparral does in solid form lets one linger over each stage from church-of-nature incense through tarry wildfires through to its base, where the delightfully peppery greenness brings the whole scent into something that embodies California. California, Not Los Angeles. Le Labo did LA proud, but this is the real California; the distillation of the Golden State. It's standing in the Malibu hills on a summer day; the Pacific's in sight, ten thousand feet below and the air is clear and momentarily still. But you can still smell the wildfires of previous seasons and the vegetation pregnant with creosote and if you're a smoker, you're extra careful to make sure that you've put your cigarette out completely. You even park carefully, making sure hot engine parts aren't near vegetation. A break-down on the 101 all the way in the Valley can spark a fire that with the "Sundowner" winds would incinerate everything from the Freeway to the sea, including you. This is that smell: heartbreaking beauty and palpable danger. I'd love to see how it layers with the oils, but I gave my samples away. In the spirit of giving (and even though I want to keep it..), I will give these three away to one commenter. Fulsome praise of my writing skills and general brilliance will not affect the outcome of the draw. But hey, it couldn't hurt... Image source, usbr.gov.

Comme des Garcons 2 Man: Perfume Review

Comme des Garcons 2 Man does not make a perfect gift for a male who always has to be No. 1. Especially the kind that is prone to paranoia reading too much into things. Because he will ask you as if jokingly, so I am Second, am I? And then you will have to explain at length how it is a masculine follow-up to Comme des Garcons 2, and thus 2 MAN, how its incense, spice and leather blend is a perfect match to his tastes and brooding personality, and how he is, of course, your absolute, total, utter No. 1 in each and every way. Just trust me on this and do not give 2 Man to a Type A Personality individual. Give him I Am King instead. In fact, disregard the fact that 2 Man, with its trademark Mark Buxton resinous darkness, with its spicy sensuality, with its very-bad-boy vibe, smells amazing on that débile of yours, more amazing maybe than even Gucci Pour Homme (and that is saying a lot!)...so amazing that it makes your knees week...disregard that and take away the bottle and use it yourself. Because as gorgeously masculine and forceful 2 Man is, it is absolutely wearable for a woman. The sweet piquancy of saffron and nutmeg is delectable here; the spices are a ray of golden light in the pitch-black abyss of leather and incense. That smoky leather, powerful as it seems at first, actually melts into the skin, becomes the skin...it might quite easily be the sexiest accord in all masculine perfumery. Forget what I said about taking the bottle away. SHARE 2 Man with the No. 1 Man in your life. Sharing perfume is a sensual experience and brings you closer together. On that Dr. Phil-worthy note...look for 2 Man at Luckyscent, $95.00-$125.00. Image source, lundlund.com.

In Search of Comfort: Profumum Olibanum

I have always found it fascinating that a person who is essentially a non-believer would find the scent of incense comforting. But I do. It gives me a feeling of peacefulness that comes from detachment. The melancholy sort of comfort that I once already described using one of my favorite passages from The Master and Margarita: “Gods, my gods! How sad the earth is at eventide! How mysterious are the mists over the swamps. Anyone who has wandered in these mists, who has suffered a great deal before death, or flown above the earth, bearing a burden beyond his strength knows this. Someone who is exhausted knows this. And without regret he forsakes the mists of the earth, its swamps and rivers, and sinks into the arms of death with a light heart, knowing that death alone…” I used Bulgakov's words to describe Passage d'Enfer, which, for me, is the scent of the welcome end, of "peace" that The Master was granted in the book. Olibanum starts with the same sort of pensive, sad and somber feel: the incense is very strong in the top notes...this is an Italian scent, but to me it smells of a Russian Orthodox church, a church that is almost dark, with only a few candles flickering beneath sorrowful icons...and then, as other notes become more apparent, the soft, nutty myrrh and the velvety, sweet sandalwood, it is as if the church becomes gradually illuminated...The sunny orange blossom is unexpected and joyful, poignantly bright and hopeful ray of light amidst the world-weary darkness...bride's fleurs d'orange, perhaps... Rich, deep, incredibly comforting, at once melancholy and hopeful, Olibanum is a must have for troublesome times. Available at Luckyscent, $240.00 for 100ml. The image, of a ceiling in The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood (Khram Spasa na Krovi), St. Petersburg, is from sacred-destinations.com.

Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande

By Tom First off, is there anyplace in this country in which the weather is not majorly sucking? (see, it's so bad I am channeling my inner 80's teen!) Ghastly, humid heat in the North, Auntie-Em sized twisters in the middle, snow (!) in the Northeast, and the Southland is just hot with enough mugginess to make it disgusting. This weekend was Gay Pride and friends tried to drag me there. No thanks, said I. Despite the fact that I went well out of my way to live somewhere where the sun shines 320 days out of the year, I don't like direct sunlight. I also don't like crowds, loud noise and drinking in the afternoon; I wouldn't go to Mardi Gras either. What, if anything you might be asking does this have to do with scent? Well, I did have to think what I was going to wear to the office today (Monday the 9th) while waiting for the new iPhone to debut. You see, my employers in their infinite wisdom have decided that the AC should be turned off on nights and weekends to save energy. Never mind that I work in a building that is inhabited 24/7 by various departments. Never mind that the HVAC system has to go into triple-overdrive on Monday to get our offices to less resemble a sauna by Wednesday. Never mind that it will inconvenience me, ME, Norma Desmond. Now that I have lulled you all into a coma with my morning rant, I will review the scent I chose. Encens et Lavande as you all know is one of the non-export fragrances in the Lutens line, meaning one can only get it by jumping through hoops. Or perhaps waiting for it to show up at Bergdorfs and paying though the nose (heat makes me grumpy). This is saddening, because I prefer this to it's counterpart in the export line, Gris Clair. E et L reverses GC's dance from light to dark: It starts off with the incense and gradually adds in the lavender with just a touch of the camphor that is amped up in the opening of GC. The icy lavender here isn't as forceful as the opening in GC; compared to Encens et Lavande Gris Clair seems somewhat shrill. The drydown marries the disparate elements to a smooth amber base, the whole in my mind making me think of the dark, cool interior of a perhaps abandoned stone church. Could there be anything more perfect on a scorching day? As mentioned, like all of the non-exports, this is available only at the Paris Salon, or can be shipped to you if you live in the EU. Lucky you. Gris Clair meanwhile is available wherever Lutens' export line is sold. Image source, salons-shiseido.com.

Perfume Review: L'Artisan Dzongkha

Dzongkha, the latest scent by L’Artisan Parfumeur, is a new installment in the travel series that already includes Bois Farine and Timbuktu. Like the latter, Dzongkha was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, author of several other L’Artisan scents, a couple of Comme des Garcons (for example, Sequoia) and Paestum Rose, just to name a few. Dzongkha is said to have been inspired by the temples of Bhutan, called Dzongs. Dzongkha is a quiet, introspective scent, a study in tasteful understatement. On my skin, it is most and foremost an iris fragrance. From the sweetly piquant beginning ornamented with cardamom, to to the earthier, spicier, almost savory heart of vetiver, incense and a subtle leather note, to the delicate, simultaneously sweet and strangely salty drydown of vetiver, some more cardamom, and a gentle, vaguely fruity accord (perhaps the lychee that was supposed to be in the top notes?), the iris is always present. Warm and spicy, cool and ethereal, earthy, bright and floral, the note here is a chameleon. This is a soft, soulful blend that must be given time and perhaps a couple of testings before its quite charm will start working on a wearer. At least that is how it was with me. While at first I thought Dzongkha to be rather pale, indistinct and aloof, after a while its various warmer aspects and subtly spicy nuances became apparent and fascinating, and I realized that what I mistook for aloofness was in fact meditative tranquility. The samples of Dzongkha are now available at First in Fragrance.

The Madonna by Edvard Munch and Regina Harris Perfume Oil

Edvard Munch, Norwegian painter, lithographer, etcher, and wood engraver, is considered to be one of the most significant influences on the development of German and Central European expressionism. Munch's disquieting and tortuous art reflected the conflicts of his time, and his own unhappy life. His Madonna is not typically demure and full of inner light. She is dark, provocative and somehow troubled. Sensual, mysterious and tragic. Very intense. "The pause during which the entire world halts in its orbit. Your face embodies all the beauty of the world. Your lips, as crimson as a ripe fruit, are half open as if to express pain. A corpse's smile. Here life and death shake hands. The chain that links thousands of past generations to the thousands to come has been meshed." (Edvard Munch) Regina Harris Perfume Oil, also known as Frankincense Myrrh Rose Maroc Perfume Oil, is for me an olfactory equivalent of that painting. It is alluring, disturbing and mysterious. This is an Expressionist scent, with the notes of frankincense, myrrh and rose distorted and exaggerated to achieve an unsettling, dark and simmering fragrance. The notes are rich and complex and very smoothly blended. Lasting power is exceptional, the bottle is stunning, and, even though the price is rather high at $125 for 15ml, this scent keeps calling to me and one day I am hoping to have it in my collection. * The Madonna by Edvard Munch, 1894-5, Oil on canvas, Nasjonalgalleriet, Oslo

Jorge de Burgos Would Approve: Messe de Minuit by Etro

My inner Goth craves incense perfumes and I feel I owe it to her to try them, after all, I keep her suppressed and never let her out. Some of the reviews of Messe de Minuit described the scent as scary. That is something I simply cannot resist. The sample was acquired and I braced myself, fully prepared to be terrified by the images too horrible to mention coming out of the vial in a puff of pungent smoke…Perhaps teenage and not-so-teenage years spent reading horror books and watching horror movies raised my fear threshold, Messe de Minuit failed to scare me. Instead it made me sad. According to Etro, Messe de Minuit has “a luminous quality that seems to sit comfortably with its darker undertones.” What on earth are they talking about? Nothing remotely luminous here, this is a very dark dense opaque woody incense. The image I get (and I am tragically unoriginal here) is that of a church, old, dusty, moldy church, with the incense smell forever being absorbed by the walls along with the prayers and tears of the people who come here…an unhappy place somehow, perhaps it is a desecrated church…or perhaps this is how the monastery from Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose would smell like, a stale sorrowful odor of a place where humorless monks live, obsessed with the fact that Jesus never laughed. Messe de Minuit could never possibly be wearable for me, but I couldn’t praise it enough for the originality and the evocativeness. For me this is one of the “haute couture scents”, something to be admired and maybe even bought, but never really worn in real everyday life.

Colonia per il Papa: Avignon by Comme des Garcons

According to Proverbs 27:9, incense brings joy to the heart. I have yet to find an incense perfume that would do that to mine. The feeling I often get is that of desolation, loneliness and gravity. Parfum Sacre is the only exception, but that one is a different story, sensual incense, almost sacrilegious. Avingon, along with Messe de Minuit and, to a lesser degreee, Passage d’Enfer, is the most somber and sorrowful of the incense scents I've tried. This is undeniably a Catholic church incense, evoking an image of a Papal cathedral no less, a place that is grand, important and unapproachable, all cold marble and disapproving statues of saints. The incense note here is somber and chilly, but if I try really hard I can smell some patchouli here, like a dirty earthly undercurrent hidden under all that holiness. This is a wonderfully unique, albeit intimidating, fragrance. I could never be able to wear Avignon, but it makes one's idle mind wonder, do Pontiffs wear cologne? I can't imagine an edgy, trendy brand like Comme Des Garcons being popular behind the walls of the Apostolic Palace, but their Avignon really should be. There is no other scent that would be so fit for Papa, although I imagine the late John Paul II might have liked something more cheerful and less formal. I will stop now before I start any blasphemous rumors and get disowned by the Church.

Sacred Feminine: Parfum Sacre by Caron

It is hard to believe that Parfum Sacre was created as recently as 1990, this incredibly beautiful perfume, an immaculate, soft, classic, timeless blend. With notes of myrrh, musk, vanilla, rose, jasmine, pepper, cinnamon, coriander, Parfum Sacre is something straight out of the Song of Songs, “an orchard of pomegranates with choice fruits…with every kind of incense tree, myrrh and aloes and all the finest spices…” It starts as a gentle, whispery rose and vanilla blend on my skin, with tiny sparkles of pepper adding discreet spiciness to the composition. Cinnamon and jasmine, two notes I find rather hard to wear, are not obvious to my nose here, this story really is all about roses, vanilla and musk. As the fragrance develops further, incense tiptoes in, and this is sweet, warm incense, very far removed from the cold grey scents like Avignon or Passage d’Enfer. Parfum Sacre is all about warmth, colors red, black and dark gold. Having said that, there is nothing overly grand or imposing about this perfume, don’t let the name lead you to expect a heady voluptuous High Priestess kind of scent, this is a different kind of sacred, the one that is kept in reverent secrecy and related in whispers. Song of Songs aside, what this fragrance really brings to mind are the images of Sacred Feminine and the theories of the Goddess in the Gospels. Yes, I did read and like The Da Vinci Code and it obviously shows, but think about it- roses and myrrh, what other perfume would be more appropriate to personify Mary Magdalene? Have the members of the Priory of Sion infiltrated Caron in the 1990s? Perhaps, given the history of all the wonderful Caron creations, they were present there from the very beginning. I will leave you with Padraic Pearse's "Song for Mary Magdalene": O woman of the gleaming hair, (Wild hair that won men's gaze to thee) Weary thou turnest from the common stare, For the shuiler Christ is calling thee. O woman of the snowy side, Many a lover hath lain with thee, Yet left thee sad at the morning tide, But thy lover Christ shall comfort thee. O woman with the wild thing's heart, Old sin hath set a snare for thee: In the forest ways forspent thou art But the hunter Christ shall pity thee. O woman spendthrift of thyself, Spendthrift of all the love in thee, Sold unto sin for little pelf, The captain Christ shall ransom thee. O woman that no lover's kiss (Tho' many a kiss was given thee) Could slake thy love, is it not for this The hero Christ shall die for thee? *The painting is Mary Magdalene in the Desert by Jusepe de Ribera, 1640-41, Museo del Prado, Madrid.