Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente: Perfume Review

So apparently I jinxed the weather. Time to dig out comfort scents, I guess. And you know how it happens sometimes that you have a very vague idea of what you want, and think that nothing can possibly fit that idea, and then the first thing you smell is exactly what you are looking for? I had a feeling I wanted something sweet but dry, smoky but not tarry, something comforting but weird. And voila! A random spritz of Myrrh Ardente was, miraculously, all that. Tonka bean and benzoin compliment the honeyed side of myrrh, turning the composition, in the first stages of its development, into something almost gourmand. The abundance of dark, dry, resinous wood enhances myrrh's smokiness. Midway through its development, that aspect is so strong that it becomes almost leathery but never steps into the tar territory. Then the soft, nutty sweetness of tonka softens the smoky effect, and as soon as the composition seems to have become tamed down and downright cuddly, the weird part happens. In the role of twist, of that jolie laide quality that turns a good, well-balanced perfume into an interesting perfume here is...well, myrrh itself, or more particularly its raw, mushroomy characteristic. Paired with the sweetness and the smoke, the rawness is striking and incredibly appealing. I think, it's the beginning of a beautiful, cold and rainy weather friendship for Myrrhe Ardente and moi. Available at Saks and Bloomingdales, $135.00-$175.00, but "masculine" bottles seem to be sold for much less at some online retailers. Image is by Guy Bourdin.

Czech & Speake Frankincense and Myrrh: Perfume Review

During a stressful time to which perfumes does a non-believer turn for comfort? Why, it's to incense perfumes! Ironic, huh? When I do, I am not looking for them to remind me of any particular churches or associated experiences, I don't want Orthodox or Catholic incense...I just want that melancholy-uplifting, "this too shall pass" quality that few smells apart form frankincense are able to offer. (Yes, it is also ironic that a non-believer finds comfort in the fatalist words of Ecclesiastes.) Czech & Speake's Frankincense and Myrrh is perfect for times like this. It is completely non-denominational. It is spiritual, not religious. The herbal citrusy-ness of the top notes of lemon, orange and basil is refreshing and airy...an open window into the world...without it the composition could have been too heavy in more ways than one. The fruitiness of orange brings out the sweet side of myrrh, and smooths the sharp angles of the dry, bright, resinous frankincense note. There is a certain tarry quality in the perfume that I like, something almost leathery, smoked. It gives the composition the comforting feel of solidity, stability, safety...It makes me believe that "the sun, or the light, or the moon, or the stars, be not darkened, nor the clouds return after the rain." Available at Apothia, Czech & Speake and Luckyscent.

Mirra & Mirra by J & E Atkinsons: Perfume Review

And my hands dripped with myrrh, And my fingers with liquid myrrh Song of Songs 5:5 Myrrh is a complex smell, and it is hard for me to find a myrrh-centered fragrance that I could fully love, because some of the facets of the note I don't enjoy at all and some I absolutely adore. For example, although I typically like earthy scents, myrrh's particular brand of mushroomy earthiness makes me uncomfortable. As does its medicinal quality. And I especially don't appreciate the almondy undertone the note sometimes manifests. Basically, for me to like a myrrh fragrance, it either has to have a very strong frankincense note as well, which would emphasize the delightfully resinous side of myrrh and cover up the sides I don't like, or focus on the vanillic sweetness of myrrh. The latter is done less often, and perhaps that is why I am particularly drawn to such fragrances. Mirra & Mirra is exactly such honeyed myrrh perfume. It smells sweet and thick, and although the fragrance is alcohol-based and has a regular sort of consistence, one can't help but expect it to be gooey and oozing suggestively out of some ancient-looking phial. It is a rather straightforward scent, in which under a layer of vanilla, a certain sweet spice and maybe even over-ripe fruits (?), one intuits rather than truly smells another, darker, drier, incense-ier layer. Mirra & Mirra is delectable, sensual and incredibly addictive. Newlondonpharmacy.com carries the whole range of Mirra & Mirra products. Share a myrrh bath, anoint each other with myrrh body lotion and celebrate tomorrow a la Solomon and Shulamite. Happy Valentine's Day, everybody! Image, Song of Songs III by Marc Chagall, is from rollins.edu.