Digging the Dirt: Indolice by Providence Perfume Co

By Marina If mushrooms were flowers, if jasmine shrubs were subterranean, this is how they would smell. If ever roots of a jasmine instead of jasmine petals have inspired a perfume, I imagine that Indolice is such a perfume...In Cepes & Tuberose, mushrooms were edible, and there certainly is a lot of that umami flavor here too, in the beginning of the scent, with herbs, basil and cilantro adding to the savory effect. In Cuir et Champignon, they were elegant, unexpectedly fitting in the composition of a leathery chypre. In Charna Ethier's creation, mushrooms are probably the most as nature intended- earthy. Interestingly, that earthiness becomes the most prominent in the heart, where the jasmine accord acquires its strength. The jasmine (three different types of night blooming jasmine, according to Providence Perfume Co.) here is breathtakingly indolic. The unapologetic skankiness of the note will take your breath away. If, like me, you belong to the group of skank-seekers (thrill-seekers?) in perfume, if you like your jasmine outrageously dirty, you might have found the holy grail in Indolice. Somehow, the indolic nature of jasmine brings out the earthiness in mushrooms. In return, the raw, fleshy accord highlights further the animalic quality of jasmine. The two bring out the worst in each other. And when I say, worst, I mean it in a very good way. Let's not forget the oakmoss, and a lot of it, which, of course, also piles up the earth in the composition. Mushrooms and oakmoss are layered in Incolice like puff pastry sheets in some unimaginable Napoleon tart, the layers held together by richly ripe creaminess of jasmine. Why do we enjoy a cheese that smells like body odor?- asks Stacey Slate in an article, Why We Love Stinky Cheese. She maintains that "our attraction to stinky cheeses reflects part of our human nature" and that "for enthusiasts of this type of cheese, its bodily odor activates our 'cheese pheromones.”' Can it be that skanky flowers like jasmine (or tuberose, gardenia and even orange blossom, which can be indolic) are so irresistibly attractive because their aroma is also perceived as human? And thus the dirtier they are, the more "like us" they are and the more impact they have? What say you? Indolice can be found at Providence Perfume Co., $20.00-$98.00, depending on the size. Samples of this must-try are also available. Image source, hiltonpond.org.

Dirty Candy Jasmine: Bruno Acampora Jasmin

By Marina Actually, it's Poopy Candy Jasmine, in my highly scientific jasmine classification, but I decided not to put that in the title. Bruno Acampora's might just be one of the most indolic and sweet jasmines I know. It is fairly simple: you smell the indolic facet, you smell the honeyed one. That's all there is to say about its developement or lack thereoff. But it is perhaps this very straightforwardness that makes the fragrance appear so natural, so life-like....perhaps even large than life...like a wall-sized close-up of the petals... The unapologetic indolic quality of the composition further contributes to this very realistic feel of Jasmin. To me, it is also what makes it so attractive. “There is no quality in this world that is not what it is merely by contrast. Nothing exists in itself,” said Herman Melville. The heavenly beauty of the floral aspect of jasmine might be so irresistible to us (it has to be, given the amount of perfumes trying to replicate it!) exactly because it is perceived side by side with the very base fecal aspect. Having said that, this one is for hardcore jasminophiliacs and skank-lovers, and even they will surreptitiously wonder, like I do, what's wrong with them if they like this stuff. Others should try this candy once, just to say they've done it. Available at Luckyscent, $175.00 for 10ml

Candide by Aftelier Perfumes

By Marina Candide was named after the eponymous novel by Voltaire, which, according to Aftelier, has a theme of optimism. Interestingly, optimism is in fact dismissed in the book, and it has been debated by students of Voltaire's work, which philosophy the novel does advocate. Regardless of the name, there is a brightness in Candide the perfume, which in fact gives a wearer a sense of...maybe not optimism...perhaps a certain melancholy upliftedness. One really shouldn't expect any higher degree of positivity from an incense scent. On my skin, frankincense is the dominant note (well, it is 50% incense, on me, 30% jasmine, 17% citruses and 3% spices, to be exact), and perhaps that is why the wonderful yellow brilliance of citruses and jasmine shines as if through a veil. The perfume might be a smile, but the one that shyly appears after many tears. Or another image...and I know that I am awfully unoriginal in equating incense with "church"...sun shining though a stained window of a cathedral, dust trembling, illuminated by this straight line of light...the sun can't get through to all the dark corners, but it gives a certain sense of hopefulness...Without shadows, there wouldn't be light, without having gone through hell, we wouldn't know how happy we are...When a contrast in a perfume is done right, like in Candide, it works wonders not only on skin but also with wearer's emotions and imagination. And how harmonious is the composition! Dark frankincense juxtaposed with luminous grapefruit and orange, softened with sweet jasmine petals, sprinkled with a little bit of spice...Elegance of simplicity and a little bit of perfumer's magic...A perfect perfume for the Holidays... Merry Christmas to all who celebrate! Candide is available at aftelier.com, $45.00-$175.00. Image source, colin200 on flickr.com.

Lust by Gorilla Perfume at Lush

By Marina I thought I was violently bored with jasmine...you know how you go through periods of craving one particular thing, in food, in perfume, in books and music even......and then one day you wake up feeling that you Don't Want Any of That Anymore Ever Again! That's what I thought happened with me and jasmine. Then in a random line up of samples, I smelled Lust, and...Ahh! Sparkly hearts and birds chirping! It was just so pretty...Misnamed, but so pretty. I say, misnamed, because...well, for me, "lust" implies something more...heavy-lidded...darker, dirtier, a scent one is a little afraid to wear ...something so luscious, it is borderline obscene. And this sparkly concoction of jasmine, rose and ylang on a silky bed of vanilla and sandalwood is just too...pretty for that. If I could re-name it, it would have become Giddy. Because that's how it makes me feel. I find it remarkable that the rose, of which I smell here quite a bit, does not bother me in the least (I share with Bulgakov's Pilate the tendency to get headaches at a mere whiff of rose oil), it enhances the giggly feminine pinkiness of jasmine without dominating the composition. Same applies to vanilla. It softens the mighty florals, turns their fierceness into cuddliness, but doesn't make the scent too sweet or too twee. Every note works to make the jasmine shine the sparkliest and the brighest. This is a perfume for the time in your life when you are finding relevant and singing out loud lyrics like: "You make me Feel like I'm living a Teenage Dream The way you turn me on I can't sleep Let's runaway And don't ever look back Don't ever look back" (Yes, I just quoted a Katy Perry song...) A pretty perfume for giddy moments of being crazy in love. Available at lushusa.com, $32.95 for 1oz.

Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint: Cooling Down the Hot Stuff

By Donna I adore jasmine perfumes, but you won't find me wearing a sexy bombshell like A La Nuit in public very frequently; this is a perfume ingredient that just gets bigger and bigger on my skin until I feel as though there is a cloud of it around me, entwining itself around everyone within reach. Unfortunately other people are not always fans of strong florals, but I have found ways to sneak them into my life without causing undue alarm to those close to me. My first Jo Malone fragrance was Vintage Gardenia, which combine the indolent florals with bracing cardamom and incense to make it the only gardenia scent I can wear to the office. Now I have discovered another under-the-radar white floral from this house that works for me, White Jasmine & Mint. I had tried this 2007 release several times in the store, but I was a bit leery of the mint part. I do not normally wear anything with mint in the list of notes unless it's a light cologne with other herbal essences in it; I don't want to smell like toothpaste. However, I was intrigued by the idea of this fragrance and decided to take it for a test drive to see if it would work. I do like the unusual juxtapositions and contrasts in the Jo Malone line. They seem to have a color wheel theory of perfumery, where the main notes are balanced out by things that are the opposite of each other; not only the Vintage Gardenia but Amber & Lavender, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Wild Fig & Cassis. Jasmine and mint is certainly in this category of perfume notes, and at first it's a little bit strange and dissonant but that part doesn't last very long. The mint part is not at all reminiscent of personal care products, but rather a pleasingly grass-green and freshly cut burst that subsides after about fifteen minutes but never quite goes away. Once it has settled down it's not really all that minty, just something to keep the jasmine reined in and behaving itself. Now, no one loves a properly indolic jasmine more than I do, and I do own some pretty knockout perfumes, but for a “family-friendly” jasmine this is hard to beat. The floral notes also include lily, orange flower and rose which combine to remind me somewhat of another tender white floral that I really love, L'Artisan's La Haie Fleurie du Hameau. White Jasmine and Mint is not as wistful as that, but it is soft and pretty and it blooms on my skin just enough so that I know I am definitely smelling jasmine. All the Jo Malones are called “colognes” but they are really Eau de Toilette (strength except for the house's “signature” scent called 154, an Eau de Parfum) and they can be surprisingly tenacious for something so sheer. This one keeps going all day on me, but I am not too surprised since white florals do the Vulcan mind meld on my skin anyway. I would feel perfectly confident wearing it in close quarters as long as I don't overdo it on application. It's definitely a floral scent for people who like to smell like the actual flowers instead of a more abstract effect, but in my opinion, if you are going to smell “literal” it may as well be of jasmine. Jo Malone fragrances are available from their web site or at better department stores such as Nordstrom. $55 for a 30 ml spray is reasonable, and Jo Malone was one of the first perfume houses to offer everything in the line in a smaller size, something which I appreciate. This one is especially nice in the body crème, shower gel or foaming bath oil formulations, which really bring out the softness of the floral heart. Image credit: White Jasmine & Mint promotional photo via jomalone.com

Le Jardin Retrouve Jasmin

By Marina A fragile beauty in a white diaphanous dress...and leather soldier boots - this is Le Jardin Retrouve Jasmin. The central note is innocently fresh and green; the sensuality, usually associated with jasmine, is lended to the blend instead by creamy ylang and fiery carnation, and this sensuality is quite subdued...not a heavy-lidded come-hither allure but a demure suggestiveness. If you still remember (it's been a while!), I am a sucker for a well done contrast in perfume. I found the juxtaposition of the pseudo-angelic transluscency of jasmine and the brutal tarriness of leather in Le Jardin's rendition of the flower very appealing. There are so many jasmines out there that, to stand out, a scent has to have a twist. Innocent jasmine in itself is somewhat unsual, but the addition of brutish, smoky leather (and, by the way, I have no idea what exactly gives that leathery feel to the composition) "puts shama lama in a ding dong". Available at Le Jardin Retrouve for modest 29€. I received my sample from people at Le Jardin.

Le Labo Jasmin 17

By Tom This long weekend was filled not with resolutions (since they'd be broken in about 10 minutes anyway) but with random wandering. I saw two movies with my BFF Sue ("Nine", which got a 3 and "A Single Man" for which Colin Firth should win the Oscar) and wandered around the neighborhood. Shockingly I wandered into Le Labo. I was randomly sniffing and noted that I had never tried on their take on Jasmine, so I partook. Jasmine isn't something that I would usually wear, any more that I would red lipstick or a push-up bra. This one (like quite a few of Le Labo's scents) seem almost tangentially about the name ingredient. So while there is jasmine (a lovely, soft one) it's comfortably nestled into orange flower, sandalwood and citrus. While it has pretty good longevity it's not a big projector so a man could perfectly well get away with it. Since Le Labo does those cunning little 15ML sizes I can't think of a particular reason that I shouldn't eventually indulge.. At LuckyScent (larger sizes only), the Le Labo website or at their stores and selected Barneys. 15ML for $52, 50ML for $130 and 100ML for $200. Ancillary products also available at the stores and website. I tested mine in the store. Image source, Le Labo.

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

The story goes that the new installment in the Private Collection series was based on a formula for a fragrance left unfinished during the lifetime of Estée Lauder, and for once I believe the press release. The substantionality and the classic structure of the blend the green buttery bitterness of which reminds me of Lauder's orginal Private Collection and Azurée, and a certain "not-of-this-time-ness", convince me that the legendary "Formula #546AQ" was in fact used to built upon in the creation of Jasmine White Moss. The fragrance has a retro feel, not because the scent is old-fashioned but because they just don't make them like that anymore. It is also obvious that an initial mix was infused with a touch of contemporary. There is a juicy, brisk freshness of citrus and black currant in the top notes that is quite au courant; and the base, although undeniably and luxuriously chypre, has that "mineral" pepperiness which, to me, is a characteristic of modern chypres. The fragrance has "moss" in the title, but this is "White Moss Mist"(an Estee Lauder exclusive), not actual (oak)moss. Not that it takes away from the richness and beauty of the composition. Green florals might be my favorite floral category (it also might be the least represented right now, lets' hope that the new Private Collection fragrance will revive the trend) and, of the three scents in the Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss is the one I like the most, even more so than the luminous Tuberose Gardenia. I find nothing to criticize in JWM: I love the crisp, dry and yet dewy top notes, I love how much galbanum I smell in the mix, I cannot get enough of the luxuriant heart of jasmine made creamy or rather, I will use the word again- buttery by the addition of ylang-ylang and orris. I appreciate how the earthiness of patchouli and the raw verdancy of vetiver are tamed into a refined, old-world chypre base. I love how rich and long-lasting the fragrance is and yet how it wears without being in the least overwhelming. And I would lie if I said that I am not drawn to the blue and white ornament of semi-precious jade, lapis, sodalite, agate, mother of pearl and agate that adorn the cap of Parfum and the case of solid perfume. Private Collection Jasmine White Moss is available at Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, etc., $80.00-$325.00.

Perfume Review: Parfumerie Generale PG 21 Felanilla and PG 23 Drama Nuui

It has been a while since I really loved a Parfumerie Generale release. The last one was the darkly beautiful L'Ombre Fauve. Everything after seemed somewhat repetitive, predictably "Generale". I feel that with the two latest scents, Pierre Guillaume is back in splendid shape. Felanilla showcases his skill in making woody scents soft, sensual and vaguely gourmand...but is not nearly as sweet as many of its predecessors. Drama Nuuï is one of the very few (in fact I can only think of two others, Psychotrope and Ether de Lilas Blanc Sur Feuillage) Guillaume scents that are what I would call transparent and fresh. Felanilla, described by the creators as a "feline vanilla", is indeed animalic but not obviously vanilla. Saffron is apparent from start to finish, and its spiciness keeps in check the sweetness of the central note. Orris, combined with woods and hay, creates a powdery-fluffy-downy effect that was also present in Bois Blonde and Aomassai. Felanilla is, however, spicier and therefore, for me, more interesting than Bois Blonde and much less heavy and sweet than Aomassai. This woody-vanillic powderiness is, to me, the best part of the scent. I think that it makes the composition simultaneously chic in a retro, indescribably "French" manner, sensual and very comforting. Which are basically all the qualities I am looking for in a perfume. The scent is a chat noire, languidly relaxing before pouncing...Delicious, sexy and elegant, it is a must have for me. Drama Nuuï, a "bitter jasminade", was not love at first sniff. As I said, it is much more translucent than most of PG's creations, it speaks quietly and reveals its charm slowly. After a couple of wearings, however, I was smitten. The jasmine note here is gorgeously transparent, a delicate white veil with all the innocence that the image implies...A green, indeed a little bitter (a quality I adore in perfumes) note, which might be asbinthe, adds dryness to the composition, enhancing the effect of lightness, or rather weightlessness...Drama Nuuï is an unsual rendition of jasmine in that it interprets the flower as pure, almost angelic and not as heavy-lidded and sensual. This would be a beautiful reminder of summer in the midst of winter...and of paradise lost. Felanilla and Drama Nuuï are available at parfumerie-generale.com, €110.00-€170.00 and €88.00-€120.00 respectively, and soon at luckyscent.com. Update: PG now can be found in Paris at TASK INSTITUT, 17-21 Bd de la Madeleine, 75001

Perfume Review: Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette

A cigarette stubbed out in a pool of inexpensive jasmine perfume spilled on a table. A bleak morning after a joyless one-night stand, smeared mascara and a general feeling of being unclean and utterly miserable…This is Jasmin et Cigarette. Etat Libre d’Orange cite Hollywood glamour as an inspiration for the scent, but if so, the composition portrays the other, desolate side of glamorous life: the pain of rejection, the bitter taste of unfulfilled ambitions, the empty feeling of eternal loneliness… There really isn’t much to say in a way of detailed development of this scent. Like with several other scents in Etat's collection, what the name tells you is literally what you get. Jasmin et Cigarette smells of, well, jasmine and tobacco. It is a great combination, with the dry-smoky tobacco adding an attractive husky quality to the sweet flowers. The notes go head to head from the beginning to end, without any sort of noticeable changes. Judging by the fact that the perfume is supposedly a homage to Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, I doubt that the creators purposefully opted for making the scent smell cheap but that is how it smells to me…like a perfume actually meant to appear cheap and jaded, in a totally calculated, stylized manner. If that, and not the usual sensual-bombshell-vamp effect, was what Etat envisioned for Jasmin et Cigarette, then kudos to them. I applaud them for coming up with an olfactory sequel to Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks. The redhead will go home with her unexcited companion… To temporarily ease the ache of their loneliness, the two will have fevered and joyless sex…and the next morning the woman will wake up to the smell of a cigarette stubbed out in a pool of her cheap jasmine perfume, to the bleak light of another dreary day. Jasmin et Cigarette is the one fragrance from the Etat de Libre d’Orange collection that I would like to have in a full size bottle. I would wear it whenever the feeling of absurdity of it all and the existential ennui overtake me…which is practically every day. Jasmin et Cigarette is available at Henri Bendel, $65.00 for 50ml.