Turtle Vetiver Front by LesNez

By Tom One of the things that I really like about LesNez (in addition to really loving some of their work) is that they've never fallen into the trap of feeling that they have to release something on a schedule X many times a year. I always think that if one has nothing to say then don't speak. LesNez waits until they have something to say. Turtle Vetiver Front is a continuation of the late and much lamented Turtle Vetiver. It's a creation of Isabelle Doyen and is meant to be an "Outlaw Perfume in Progress", which means that it's a limited edition. Which I hate. I hate that because this is a winner and deserves to stick around. Vetiver here is perfectly played: in turns smoky and warm yet crystalline and icy, and very rooty. As the scent progresses it becomes warmer and more skin-like. The lasting power is phenomenal: the scent I sprayed on in the morning was easily discernible upon waking the next am. Frankly, it's the best vetiver I've smelled since Vero Kern's Onda, and that's saying something.. Available at the LesNez website or at LuckyScent, $120 for 50ML. My sample was sent by LesNez

LesNez Manoumalia: Perfume Review No. 2

There is such a thing as an objectively good perfume. It is the one that, whether you like it or not, you find interesting, evocative and well-constructed. But there is also no way to disregard one's subjective feelings, memories and tastes du jour. Manoumalia, the new creation for Les Nez by Sandrine Videault (pictured) is a good perfume. And I am not attracted to it at all. Why it is good...Inspired by the South Pacific island of Wallis, it certainly seems to bring to mind the tropical atmosphere, the smell of rich soil, of sweet petals, of humidity. Blending green, rooty vetiver and languid exotic flowers (fagraea, tiare, ylang-ylang), the perfumer achieved a striking yang-yin, darkness-light sort of contrast of earthy, practically dirty and creamy-floral notes. One could also say that the earthy notes here serve to underscore the "darkness of white flowers", which I usually can't help but admire, rendering their dirtiness in a vegetable-mineral rather than animalic manner. Manoumalia is moving, original, memorable... Why I am not attracted to it...I wish I knew. Usually drawn to a good contrast (and it is really good in Manoumalia), right now I am just...not in a mood for it. I am not in a mood for earthy or creamy-floral. To be honest, the only two scents I crave at the moment...and the names will come as a shock to those who know me...are Mûre et Musc Extrait and Shalimar. Nevertheless, I ask you, dear reader, not to mind my subjective and fickle feelings and to trust me that this is, objectively speaking, a very good perfume, and to go and try it. Look for Manoumalia at lesnez.com For another opinion, please refer to Tom's earlier review of Manoumalia. Image source, LesNez.

LesNez Manoumalia: Perfume Review

By Tom Has if really been two years since LesNez released their last perfumes? These days that's something like the run of the original Beetle. Perfume houses, even some niche ones seem duty-bound to release something on schedule, no matter how variations-on-a-theme or unfinished or just terribly "meh" they might be. Luckily, LesNez is not that sort of company. Created by perfumer Sandrine Videault, Manoumalia opens with a rush of clean, dry vetiver. If it had stopped there I would have been very happy. But what came after made me go "Squeee!": the sharp, clean vetiver was slowly joined by tiare flower and subsequently by amber. The gardenia-like tiare and resinous, glottal amber warm the scent like morning sun. Sandalwood and Ylang Ylang ground it, completing the whole south-seas effect. Reading this you might think that this could be way over the top and perhaps in lesser hands it could be; Ms. Videault cleverly keeps the sillage relatively on the down low and quite sly, and the scent is as apt to give off a whiff of that bracing vetiver as it is the delicious tiare. It manages to be gorgeous but office-friendly, sexy-as-hell yet discrete; it's a trip to the tropics just in time for the dreariest part of Winter. This one is scheduled for release in January, and it's to be hoped it will be at Luckyscent at about the same time. I have no idea about the price point, but if they can keep it in the $80- $90 dollar range I will be very happy.

Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 7

Part 7 of the Perfume Stars series brings us the favorite summer fragrances and ideal holiday destinations of … René Schifferle, LesNez What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “My favorite summer fragrances are citruses or vetivers. Citrus is fresh and vetivers cooling. My first citrus was Eau Sauvage by Edmond Roudnitska, which goes back to my first trip to the south of France in the early seventies. I had bought it before leaving, just as I was going to do on many holidays and trips in the future. A new fragrance to go with the year and the place. I still do this sometimes today. I had not known then, that Maitre Roudnitska had composed Eau Sauvage just a few miles up the road from Cannes in his house "Sainte Blanche" in the mountains near Cabris. What a coincidence, I had brought the right fragrance to the right place. It is still able to bring me back there ...” What is your favorite holiday destination? “Discovering France - whenever I have a few days. There are so many different landscapes, climates, châteaux, museums, people and markets. It never stops.” Francis Kurkdjian What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “I have three favorite scents: Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès created by Françoise Caron, Eau de Rochas created by Nicolas Mamounas and Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal. I like to use them as a splash. They are light so I can reapply all day long.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “No special places in the world but I like hanging out with friends, taking my time reading, cooking, having fun all together. I have couple of places that I like though, Beyruth (Lebanon), the Family House near Bordeaux, a friend's house in Sevilla (Spain).” Peter Milsted, Art of Perfumery What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? Favorite Summer fragrances for Women are: “Cool Water Summer, a beautiful sparkling invigorating yet soft feminine perfume. Another favourite is the Kenzo summer variant which has the pure and sensual note of mimosa leaving a trail of sweet memories. And of course the Art of Perfumery N°3 which is a delicate white floral with a beautiful accord of lily of the valley giving every woman an aura of serenity and peace.” Favorite summer fragrances for men: Eau Sauvage from Christian Dior will always be one of Milsted’s favourite classic cologne, full of citrus and wood, perfect for hot summer evenings. “Art of Perfumery N°4 is the other ideal summer fragrance with superb modern ozonic accords combined with aromatic notes giving fresh radiant energy.” What is your favorite holiday destination? Marrakech/Morocco, Gorges du Verdon/France and his own Provencale garden in the South of France, near Grasse! Christopher Chong, Amouage What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “This is a difficult question for me because I don't like classifying fragrances according to seasons. I prefer to wear what my mood dictates on the day. I know this sounds pretentious...hahaha. It's extremely difficult for me to get into the summer season in the UK at the moment since it has been so wintry lately. To answer your question, if I am feeling summery my favourite fragrances would be Amouage's Ciel and Reflection. However, I am not entirely biased towards Amouage. One of my favourites is Chanel No 18. It reminds me of a sultry summer in Tuscany with a gin and tonic in my hand.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “Again, I am going to be difficult. You have to forgive me. I don't have a favourite holiday destination because it takes me so long to unwind from the intensity of my job that by the time I begin to feel relaxed my holiday is already over. However, I would feel guilty if I don't answer your question properly. One of my favourite holiday destinations is trekking in Nepal. It was such a magical experience in which body, soul and nature are fused as one unity. I love destinations that offer me the opportunity to explore myself and also to enrich my understanding of their cultures and mysticism.” Autumn Asbury, La Creme Beauty What are you favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? My favorite summer fragrances are always changing, must admit I’m not very faithful when it comes to scent. I’ve been loving the Loree Rodkin Gothic fragrances, there is something very sexy to me about the richness of her fragrances mingling with the heat and humidity. For a different feel I have also been wearing Yosh White Flowers which is so fresh and clean without being soapy and her U4EAHH!! which is very playful. I also love the scent of suntan lotion in the summer especially Hawaiian Tropics & Bain de Soleil…it let’s me know summer is here. I read once that one of Frederic Malle’s favorite smells was Bain de Soleil…I found that I had a little soft spot for him after reading that. What is your favorite holiday destination? Unfortunately holidays are far and few between but I love Hawaii for it’s flowers and lush greenness and Greece for being able to pick the most amazing fresh lemons and it’s herbaceous scented mountains…I think most people just think of the water when it comes to Greece. Both places are not only beautiful visually but are full of gorgeous aromatics. I’m sure all my fellow fragrance fanatics can appreciate that aspect of travel. Images courtesy of René Schifferle, Art of Perfumery.