Oud Stars by Xerjoff

By Marian Oud can be challenging. Sometimes pure oud oils smell too animalic, too funky, too smoky or too rough. Many of the “Western” interpretations don’t smell like “oud” at all.  Xerjoff, in their newly released “Oud Stars” line, has designed fragrances in which the scent of oud is clearly recognizable, yet they give a big nod to Western sensibilities by pairing oud with familiar notes that are more accessible, alluring and addictive! In alphabetical order: Al Khatt is based on Laotian oud, and clear vanillic notes testify to its Indo-Chinese pedigree. The Jasmine sambac is lush with berried fruitiness not always in jasmine absolutes, which can sometimes smell like tea, soap or heavily indolic. The subtle herbal dryness of oakmoss, the resinous succulence of benzoin and the velvety nuances of cashmeran add complexity and ornamentaion to this enticing Oriental bouquet. Italian Bergamot, Jasmine Sambac, Cashmeran, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Laos Benzoin, Oud Laos Fars is a province in Iran, its capital the beautiful city of Shiraz, known as “the city of gardens”.  Fars is a symphony of flowers, herbs and woods. The smoldering smokiness of cade makes me think of agarwood chips burning in a bejeweled mubkhara; the almost chocolate-y scent of patchouli is often present in the ouds from Indonesia, and the drydown of sweet nagarmotha is so similar to some of the notes found in oud that it is often used to adulterate it. The presence of bergamot, lavender and geranium makes this perfume seem a little lighter, brighter and greener than some of the other blends in this collection. Italian Bergamot, French Lavender, cade , Egyptian Geranium, Jasmine Absolute, Cedar Atlas Amber, Santalwood, Patchouly, Haiti Vetyver, Indian Nagarmotha, Oud wood Gao- I love the way the plum-y leatheriness of the oud oils is offset by the exotic, bitter powderiness of saffron, the dryness of patchouli, the smokiness of cade and the glowing warmth of golden amber. A blend that is arid but welcoming, smoky yet powdery soft, and gourmand without being cloyingly sweet, is quite unique. I think this is more of a masculine scent because it’s very woody, but women who enjoy scents like Zafferano might really enjoy it. A blend of Spanish Saffron with a touch of Iranian Saffron, Gurjum, Bois de Cade, Nagarmotha,  Indonesian Patchouly, Amber, Blend of Thai Pratchin Oud with Oud Laos (Udomsai) Oud from India is considered to be amongst the most fecal, but in Mamluk it’s as tame as the caramel that takes center stage. This perfume is practically dripping with brown sugar, and when it’s combined with both vanilla and amber you can imagine that it easily falls into the dessert, rather than the desert, category. There’s a hint of naughtiness- sweaty bodies- contributed by the musk- and more than a little peach nectar from the osmanthus.  I would think that most people who enjoy gourmand fragrances wouldn’t be partial to oud scents, but Mamluk succeeds in combining these unlikely bedfellows in a way that gourmand AND oud lovers could both happily indulge their passion. Italian Bergamot, Honey, caramel accord, Jasmine Garndiflorum, Osmanthus, Laos Benzoin Vanilla MAdagascar, Indian Oud, Crystal Musks, Amber Najaf saw much devastation during the US invasion of Iraq. Perhaps this sweet composition is an expression of the perfumer’s wish that it experience a happier future. Osmanthus is the dominant note. In this juicy composition it smells more like apricot than peach, and a very faint bitterness reminds me of the pits hidden within an apricot’s delicate flesh.  The tobacco and herbal notes are barely discernable; vanilla and tonka add a subtle booziness, and musk contributes a furry warmth to this opulent, exotic perfume. Woody notes, Sweet and Herbal notes, Osmanthus, Cedar and Patchouli, Santalwood, Vanilla, Tonka, Tobacco and Musk, Oud Wood “Zafar” means “victory” in Arabic and Xeroff has certainly succeeded in creating a perfume that is as sensuous, multifaceted and provocative as many of the Arabian perfume oils that are popular in the Middle East. Oud really stands out in this blend. No attempt has been made to tame or disguise it so its primal energy is unmistakable. To combine it with rose and musk is very much in the “Arabic” tradition, and for that reason this perfume seems especially “authentic”. The animalic snarliness of oud and the sweet earthiness of patchouli are the most prominent components of the scent, however they aren’t so strong as to obscure the crimson headiness of rose, the heavy sensuality of white flowers or the cool, herbal breeziness of vetiver. I began this review by saying that “oud can be challenging”. “Zafar” is a challenge worth meeting head on- it’s dark; it’s bold and it’s daring. Xerjoff has earned the laurels for creating this perfume, but I intend to share them by wearing it!  Rose, Green Apple, Black Pepper, Neroli from Morocco, Oud Laos, matured over 15 years, White Flowers, Cedar, Incense from Oman, Vetyver Haiti, Musk Oud Stars can be purchased from Luckyscent and MiN New York Images, Detail of Interior of the Tomb of the Persian Poet Hafiz, Shiraz, Iran; Detail, Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran and Detail of the Dome of the Theological College, Isfahan, Iran, are by Robert Harding, allposters.com.

Amouage Honour

By Marian Although I’m embarrassed to admit it, Amouage’s handcrafted bottles first interested me in the brand, and I assumed that as much care went into creating the fragrances as their opulent containers. The first perfume I tried, Lyric for Women, lived up to my expectations, and my Amouage perfume oils are as complex, unique and every bit as luxurious as those first gold-encrusted bottles. It was therefore with great excitement that I encountered Honour for Woman at the Elements Showcase. Honor is named in honor of “truth and beauty” and is meant to be an elegy to Madame Butterfly as she is remembered by her grown son. White on white butterfly wings flit across the box and the white ceramic bottle reflects the purity of Butterfly’s heart. I wasn’t sure what to expect from a scent inspired by such a tragic story- something cold and metallic that references Cio Cio San’s harrowing suicide? Something sad and wistful that recalls her longing for her departed naval officer? A soft and gentle homage to Butterfly’s sweetness, hopefulness and innocence? According to the website “Each ingredient embraces a plethora of emotion and meaning; sweet Tuberose represents danger; Jasmine, attachment; Gardenia, secret love and Lily of the Valley, purity of heart. A harmoniously rich resin base of Frankincense, Amber and Opoponax injects dimension, depth and complexity.” Honour for Women is a soft white floral that seems more commercial and conventional than the other Amouage fragrances with which I’m familiar. Pepper and carnation give it the tiniest bit of a kick, frankincense and amber add warmth and luster, and the sweetness of lily of the valley and jasmine permeate the blend. However gardenia and tuberose, whose mintiness adds a touch of cool detachment, are the star performers. Lovers of white florals should definitely attend the performance but those who expect uniqueness and inventiveness from Amouage may be disappointed. Honour Man has strong notes of pepper, nutmeg and geranium – it’s opening is sharp and lively. I was surprised to read that tonka bean is one of the basenotes- on me the drydown is all dry woods and herbs (cedar, frankincense and patchouli). The perfume didn’t develop much and after a while I found myself feeling irritated by its piquancy. If you like the scent of feisty pepper and arid woods you might enjoy this parched fragrance, but if your significant other wears it I hope his heart is warmer than his perfume. Honour EDP is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles.

SoOud Fam, Kanz, Asmar & Burqa

By Marian Stephane Humbert Lucas, perfumer behind SoOud, which made its debut at the Elements Showcase, aims to marry French and Arabian sensibilities in perfumes that meld European elegance with Arabian sensuality. Although not all of the perfumes feature notes that are typically “Arabian”, the overall aesthetic- from the packaging, with it’s clear slit circling the middle of the otherwise opaque bottle, clearly an abstraction of the niqab, to the heavy density of the scents- leans way more towards the East than it does towards Europe. The four perfumes in the “oud group” are: Fam, meaning “The Mouth”, is a powdery floral. Rose, pepper and saffron are prominent, as are sandalwood and musk in the base notes. Kanz, “The Treasure”, is the male counterpart to Fam. Oud, nagarmotha and sandalwood provide a woody backdrop against which the softness of rose and the more angular sweetness of jasmine are highlighted to a degree that might make this fragrance more suitable for women than the male audience for which is was intended. Asmar-“Dark Brown”- notes of Arabian coffee, honey, cloves and tobacco add spice and earthiness to the thick sweetness and ambered warmth of raisins, heliotrope, amber, vanilla and musk. Asmar is classified as a “woody amber” and is the only one of the oud group in which carnation is the featured flower. Burqa- The woodiest of the four “oud perfumes, though rose, amber and patchouli very much help to define it. Each scent is available as Nektar or in the less strong Eaux Fines concentration. Four other scents are part of the SoOud line. A description of them can be found here. (Use Google translate to decipher the French) This line has stirred up some political/social controversy. For those interested, see the comments on 1000 fragrances.

Black Mysterious

By Marian Many “Arabian” attars are variations on the oud, rose and musk drama and when I first became enamored of “Eastern” scents I never tired of experiencing the mystery and exoticness of those three notes. Gradually I’ve been learning to distinguish between the different types of roses that sweeten and sensualize the blends- the citrus-y sparkle of Isparta rose, the billowing opulence of Bulgarian damascenes, the elegant clarity of Rosa alba and the smooth zestiness of the rare and exquisite Taif’I rose, first cultivated in Arabia during the Ottoman empire. I’ve developed a preference for mukhallats (mixtures) featuring ouds from Cambodia or India – the Cambodians exhibiting a lush and bountiful fruitiness, the Indians a stately strength or animalic intensity- and have gradually began to appreciate how a subtle change in the amount or nature of any individual component can hugely effect the feeling, and my enjoyment of, the perfume. Recently I received a sample of Black Mysterious perfume oil. In this unique and modern composition the perfumer has chosen to combine natural ingredients not usually found in “Arabian” perfumes with the classic oud, rose and musk trio. Despite this innovation Black Mysterious embodies the deep and dark seductiveness I’ve come to associate with “Oriental” oils. It encapsulates the scents of a caravan- the dense smokiness of star-wrapped campfires, the dagger sharpness of pepper-filled saddlebags, the leathery punch of camel hides and the voluptuous scents of rose, indolic white flowers and sweet balsamic resins that have been traded along the Silk Road for the last 3,000 years. The traditional elements are all there but they are embellished with a welcome and unusual twist. And, the notes aren’t the only surprise- although this perfume starts out with an almost aggressive, resinous assertiveness, it dries down into a soft, floral and woody gentleness that’s quite demure in its delicacy. Aluwwah carries an enticing selection of mukhallats, attars and raw perfume ingredients traditionally used in Middle Eastern perfumes. They also stock high quality agarwood that, when burned, can be used to perfume your home and clothes for special occasions.

Letter to Mr.B., Master Distiller: Aged Hindi Oud (32 years old)

Dear Mr. B., I just couldn’t wait for the weekend! This morning I transferred your oil to a glass bottle and I’ve spent the last couple of hours getting to know it. Mr. B.- I’m in heaven! I feel so fortunate to have experienced this sweet, soothing oil! I know we’re going to spend many tranquil and dreamy hours together. I’ve written down some things it reminds me of, though words don’t do it justice: -the scent of very worn deerskin that has become so soft you can pull it through a wedding ring -the scent of a gentle fire just as the first breath of smoke appears -the scent of moist plums stored in an old wooden crock, dusted with cinnamon and doused in port wine -the scent of moss baking in the afternoon sun -the scent of a cello’s belly that has been played for many years -the touch of my mother’s cool lips kissing my forehead when I’m sick -the smoothness of a dark wooden ball that has been lovingly palmed by generations of children -the smoldering darkness of crushed, midnight silk velvet -the crystalline depth of molten topaz and black diamonds -the lined and wizened face of “Crazy Thunder”, Oglala Lakota chief -the steadiness of a tombak -the delightful mystery of fireflies Mr. B.- Although I am unable to describe the smoothness, composure and allure of this scent in a way that captures its beauty, one thing I can say for sure: it is the scent of serenity. Thank you for sending it to me. With warm regards, Marian A recent distillation of Mr. B’s Hindi oud will soon be available from Enfleurage, New York City (888) 387-0300 www.enfleurage.com

Areej Al-Ameerat Dehen Al Oud by Areej Al Ameerat

By Marian The amber of your eyes is melting- soft and doe-like. I want to dive inside your eyes and be swallowed by their radiance. Plums, oozing the splendor of sun-drenched orchids- lusty and ripe, bursting with golden nectar. Dignified balsams, trunks bleeding resin, tower into the pitch-drenched night. Sable cloaked- I bury my nose in your sueded elegance. You are warm like a stag's breath; as regal as a mountain lion. When the moon hangs precariously in the sky, I will nuzzle beside you, and wait for your impassioned embrace to pierce my heart. Areej Al-Ameerat is a blend of the finest agarwood oils- a Wagnerian symphony of sumptuous elegance, stature and splendor. 7,500 UAE dirhams (@ $2,040.00) for 12 mls. Another sublime and sensuous scent is Areej's Syoufi Musk. Smoky leather, sparkling mandarins and rose-smothered damsons harmonize to form a warm and luscious blend that is ripe, succulent and scintillating . 1000 UAE dirhams (@$275.00) for 12ml. Areej al Ameerat is one of the most exclusive shops in Dubai. Perfume purveyors to the elite, Areej al Ameerat specializes in exceptional Dehen al Oudhs from India, Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia. Their famed Blue Oud is reputed to be “the rarest agarwood in world” and of unsurpassed quality. Custom, monogrammed leather boxes and gold-plated perfume bottles are available for storage of Areej al Ameerat's treasures. By appointment only. Areejalameerat.com.

Tribute Attar by Amouage

By Marian Frost-encrusted branches of blue spruce, laden with such mountains of snow- I wonder why they don't break. Moonlight crystallizes them and they sparkle with galaxied rapture. I emerge from the forest into a mossy clearing- the ground there soft and yielding. I spread my cloak atop the lichen and burrow my face into earth's musky, heaving bosom. In the distance the sound of an organ creeps into the night, it's deep bellows expansively glorifying. The dark, balsamic scent of incense curls between the ancient stones- beckoning; caressing. I follow its warm, spicy and resinous song. The sanctuary is bejeweled with jasmines and purple roses, their sweetness more delicate and brilliant than the silver-laced candlesticks guarding their ripe beauty. Like shadows seeking mates in heaven their limpid nectar drifts spirewards. Could the moon be lit by the wings of angels, to so brightly drench the year-worn pews in these vibrant rainbows of light? Emerald, ruby, golden patterns melt upon the years-rubbed wood. Jeweled puddles commune in glass-stained splendor. To whom, to what, should I pay tribute for such glorious harmony of the senses and the heart? I kneel down, and await an answer. It's not often that I'm happy to spend $350 for a bottle of perfume, but Tribute is worth every (scent) cent. Notes: Rose Taifi, Jasmine, Saffron, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Tobacco, Leather, Patchouli, Vetiver. Available at Luckyscent, $350.00-$650.00. Image source, Vogue Italy.

Al Shomoukh Attar by Amouage

By Marian Although I’m not generally fond of smoky fragrances, I am enthralled by Al Shomukh’s smoldering sensuality. The note of pitch tar is a sultry foil to the fruity sumptuousness of davana, and the balsamic freshness of resinous woods beautifully contrasts with the ripe, honeyed rosiness that pervades this voluptuous composition. Vetiver adds an herbal earthiness to the scent, and there are even hints of citrus and cinnamon that keep the sweet, glowing warmth of this lush attar from becoming cloying. Are you a fan of musk? Entwined with the animalic sensuality of oud, musk abyadh, though lacking in true smut, adds a lustiness to the scent that puts it in the sexy, rather than beautiful, category. Al Shomoukh is not a scent for the timid or feint of heart- it is a wild, alluring, and provocatively mysterious blend that is as complex as it is unusual. Slide beneath some satin sheets, change your white light bulb for a pink one, allow Al Shomoukh to penetrate your skin, and see what happens! Notes: Silver Oudh, vetiver, musk abyadh, Taifi rose, davana Available at Selfridges, London $350.00 for 12 ml. Image source, unknown, please let us know if you know the author.

Arab Perfumes Al Rawza

By Marian It's dawn, and the sun is still coy. It shyly reflects off the hose-khaneh in our courtyard, a liquid sheet of pale gold. The children and I have decided to sleep beside the water to enjoy the morning breeze and awaken to the trill of nightingales. Tendrilled wisps of orange blossom caress us, whispering that it's time to get up, scented murmurs so soft and gentle I wonder if I'm still dreaming. I open my eyes. The sun is wrapping our private paradise in buttercup gauze, the nectared sweetness of ylang-ylang and jasmine hovering within its fragrant folds. Slices of barbari, a slab of feta, a silver bowl overflowing with sour cherry jam, and a basket of mulberries wait patiently for us to arise. But it is the scent of saffron tea, escaping through the arched window and into the morning air, which lures me from my garden bed. The sun is rising. The fountain is merrily gurgling and the sun is sneaking beneath the ample aprons of the cedar trees. The children, now awake, scamper into the pool and wash the night away. Al Rawza, classified as a “soft oriental” can be purchased from Arabperfumes.com. 3ml- 50 GBP ($70.00), 6ml- 85 GBP ($119.00), 12 ml-150 GBP ($210.00). Incidentally, Arabperfumes.com “Posh Ambergris” is the best ambergris I've sampled! The giclee print of Princess Sitting in a Garden, is from allposters.com

Perfume Review: Agarscents Bazaar Al Manara

It is my pleasure to feature today a review written by a dear friend of mine and a fellow perfume lover and oud connossieur, Marian Williams. We have all fantasized about “the ideal perfume”. Who hasn't scoured department store counters, internet retailers, auction houses, elegant and exclusive fragrance boutiques and Grandma's basement hoping to find the scent that perfectly reflects who we are? My search ultimately led me to Agarscents Bazaar, an online retailer that specializes in Arabian musks, oils and perfumes. Sharif LaRache has created a line of Arabian Oils that are as mesmerizing as they are exotic, ranging in price from $25.00 - $900.00. “Al Manara” is a blend he created for me- the fragrance that brought me to the end of my search. AL Manara What does it mean to embody all things- when the yin and yang fuse, when heaven and earth are inseparable, when liquid flight soars us to darkest depths? Who made this rose- gazelle? swift panther? Now, a child, I rock in your cradle and daze into light. Falling back. Back to primal forests, to the day when earth ruptured and life joyed out. I want to gulp you in- devour your lush plushness, my blood aboil with molten gold. You are my skin when I was new- translucent, then, and fragilely sheer. You are the breath of my first kiss, the gasp of my last ascending breath. You are my grown heart. Come- rub my head. Entwine your petals in my limpid curls, yank me from my torpor so I may better see the light. I know you- the me I will be upon awakening. Notes: Orris, Rose Isphahan, Labdanum, Amber, Myrrh, Yellow Plum, Sandalwood Spicatum, Bulgarian Rose, Musk Mr. LaRache is about to release a new line of fragrances, including some that are more tailored to the Western market. Image (cover of Coelho's Zahir) source, Harper Collins.