Oud Stars by Xerjoff

By Marian Oud can be challenging. Sometimes pure oud oils smell too animalic, too funky, too smoky or too rough. Many of the “Western” interpretations don’t smell like “oud” at all.  Xerjoff, in their newly released “Oud Stars” line, has designed fragrances in which the scent of oud is clearly recognizable, yet they give a big nod to Western sensibilities by pairing oud with familiar notes that are more accessible, alluring and addictive! In alphabetical order: Al Khatt is based on Laotian oud, and clear vanillic notes testify to its Indo-Chinese pedigree. The Jasmine sambac is lush with berried fruitiness not always in jasmine absolutes, which can sometimes smell like tea, soap or heavily indolic. The subtle herbal dryness of oakmoss, the resinous succulence of benzoin and the velvety nuances of cashmeran add complexity and ornamentaion to this enticing Oriental bouquet. Italian Bergamot, Jasmine Sambac, Cashmeran, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Laos Benzoin, Oud Laos Fars is a province in Iran, its capital the beautiful city of Shiraz, known as “the city of gardens”.  Fars is a symphony of flowers, herbs and woods. The smoldering smokiness of cade makes me think of agarwood chips burning in a bejeweled mubkhara; the almost chocolate-y scent of patchouli is often present in the ouds from Indonesia, and the drydown of sweet nagarmotha is so similar to some of the notes found in oud that it is often used to adulterate it. The presence of bergamot, lavender and geranium makes this perfume seem a little lighter, brighter and greener than some of the other blends in this collection. Italian Bergamot, French Lavender, cade , Egyptian Geranium, Jasmine Absolute, Cedar Atlas Amber, Santalwood, Patchouly, Haiti Vetyver, Indian Nagarmotha, Oud wood Gao- I love the way the plum-y leatheriness of the oud oils is offset by the exotic, bitter powderiness of saffron, the dryness of patchouli, the smokiness of cade and the glowing warmth of golden amber. A blend that is arid but welcoming, smoky yet powdery soft, and gourmand without being cloyingly sweet, is quite unique. I think this is more of a masculine scent because it’s very woody, but women who enjoy scents like Zafferano might really enjoy it. A blend of Spanish Saffron with a touch of Iranian Saffron, Gurjum, Bois de Cade, Nagarmotha,  Indonesian Patchouly, Amber, Blend of Thai Pratchin Oud with Oud Laos (Udomsai) Oud from India is considered to be amongst the most fecal, but in Mamluk it’s as tame as the caramel that takes center stage. This perfume is practically dripping with brown sugar, and when it’s combined with both vanilla and amber you can imagine that it easily falls into the dessert, rather than the desert, category. There’s a hint of naughtiness- sweaty bodies- contributed by the musk- and more than a little peach nectar from the osmanthus.  I would think that most people who enjoy gourmand fragrances wouldn’t be partial to oud scents, but Mamluk succeeds in combining these unlikely bedfellows in a way that gourmand AND oud lovers could both happily indulge their passion. Italian Bergamot, Honey, caramel accord, Jasmine Garndiflorum, Osmanthus, Laos Benzoin Vanilla MAdagascar, Indian Oud, Crystal Musks, Amber Najaf saw much devastation during the US invasion of Iraq. Perhaps this sweet composition is an expression of the perfumer’s wish that it experience a happier future. Osmanthus is the dominant note. In this juicy composition it smells more like apricot than peach, and a very faint bitterness reminds me of the pits hidden within an apricot’s delicate flesh.  The tobacco and herbal notes are barely discernable; vanilla and tonka add a subtle booziness, and musk contributes a furry warmth to this opulent, exotic perfume. Woody notes, Sweet and Herbal notes, Osmanthus, Cedar and Patchouli, Santalwood, Vanilla, Tonka, Tobacco and Musk, Oud Wood “Zafar” means “victory” in Arabic and Xeroff has certainly succeeded in creating a perfume that is as sensuous, multifaceted and provocative as many of the Arabian perfume oils that are popular in the Middle East. Oud really stands out in this blend. No attempt has been made to tame or disguise it so its primal energy is unmistakable. To combine it with rose and musk is very much in the “Arabic” tradition, and for that reason this perfume seems especially “authentic”. The animalic snarliness of oud and the sweet earthiness of patchouli are the most prominent components of the scent, however they aren’t so strong as to obscure the crimson headiness of rose, the heavy sensuality of white flowers or the cool, herbal breeziness of vetiver. I began this review by saying that “oud can be challenging”. “Zafar” is a challenge worth meeting head on- it’s dark; it’s bold and it’s daring. Xerjoff has earned the laurels for creating this perfume, but I intend to share them by wearing it!  Rose, Green Apple, Black Pepper, Neroli from Morocco, Oud Laos, matured over 15 years, White Flowers, Cedar, Incense from Oman, Vetyver Haiti, Musk Oud Stars can be purchased from Luckyscent and MiN New York Images, Detail of Interior of the Tomb of the Persian Poet Hafiz, Shiraz, Iran; Detail, Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran and Detail of the Dome of the Theological College, Isfahan, Iran, are by Robert Harding, allposters.com.

Oud Stars - New Line by Xerjoff

Xerjoff will be releasing a new line at the Esxence show in Milan. It is an extension of the "Shooting Stars Line", named "Oud Stars" The collection of 6 scents will be based on traditional Middle Eastern oud blends. No notes are released yet, and pricing will be announced at the show.

Delicious Earth: Xerjoff Richwood

By Marina According to the copy, the star of Richwood is sandalwood. The note is certainly there, balancing somewhat the robustness of the composition with its delicate, transparent woodiness. That kind of gentleness, however, is no match to the wonderful opulence of the patchouli. The latter to me is the dominant ingredient in Richwood, it pulls others into its moist, velvety darkness. I absolutely enjoy this patchouli. It is earthy and edible at the same time. As if in throws of a pica, I imagine myself greedily consuming it. It would taste like the dirtiest and darkest chocolate. I like the fact that this patchouli is very raw and yet somehow rather refined. Its wildness seems cleverly stylized. No headshop crudeness here, Richwood is a proper perfume. in my mind, the sofistication of the patchouli note makes Richwood somewhat related to Chanel's laquered patchouli wonder, Coromandel. Of the two, Richwood would be the more sensual and dirtier and therefore more alluring. Available wherever Xerjoff is sold, for the whopping $635 for 100ml.

Xerjoff 1861 - Perfume Review & Prize Draw

By Marina 1861, the new fragrance by Xerjoff, is meant to celebrate Italian unification and to embody, with its top, middle and base notes, different climatic and natural beauties of various parts of Italy. Which is a respectable if a bit cliche inspiration. To me the perfume is more evocative of Italian fashion. The fresh, breezy citrus is Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2011 RTW, almost all white, broderie anglaise, virginal and still somehow over the top sexy. The heart notes, which are supposed to be lily of the valley and rose, but in fact smell to my nose of Xerjoff's trademark sumptuous orris, is Gucci...not circa Tom Ford, with the cut-outs, provocativeness and 1990-ness....it is more in Frida Giannini's style, almost lady-like in parts, but still obviously, unapologetically glamorous. The base, which, with its luscious, dark amber, musk overdose and suggestive earthiness of patchouli, is to me the most appealing part of 1861, is Roberto Cavalli's animal prints...and, of course, Versace's overall dramatic ideology of more is more. Not surprisingly, therefore, 1861 is one of those perfumes that make one feel vestito a festa, no matter what one is wearing. I love that. If you would like to try a sample of 1861 and a couple of others by Xerjoff, let me know if you have  any items with animal print in your wardrobe. Winner will be chosen randomly, regardless of the answer. :)

Xerjoff Modoc Perfume Review

By Marina After I encountered Xerjoff's iris fragrance, Irisss, I decided that, along with Iris Silver Mist, it might be the most beautiful iris scent out there. Modoc gives Irisss run for its money. It is not a rival for Iris Silver Mist, because, to me, they come from two different iris "families". The family inhabited by Irisss, Modoc and scents like Delrae Mythique, Attrape-Coeur and Iris Poudre is "buttery" or "velvety" iris. The family of Iris Silver Mist, Hiris, Iris Pallida and Infusion d'Iris is "drier" and "silky". The first group speaks in hushed, husky tones, the second sings like silver bells. The "velvety" irises are, to me, what Luxury and Expensive smell like. The "silky" ones are what elves wear in Rivendale... Generally speaking, the velvety group is stylized, "perfumey", while the silky ones strike me as more "realistic". There are also woody irises, earthy and a couple of other types, but those are sub-groups. As you can see, I am ever so "scientific" about my irises. On that note, I am going to evaluate Modoc according to the criteria I came up with before: 1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - Very. Modoc is built on the interplay of two rooty ingredients, iris and vetiver, with their harmonious interaction taking place on the plush background of amber and vanilla. It is the latter two accords that keep the rootiness/earthiness of the  star notes to a minimum, making them instead creamy, slightly powdery and extremely luxurious. Nothing wild about either vetiver or iris here, both are tres recherche. Vanilla, musk and amber highlight the buttery quality of orris. In comparison, vetiver is rather subdued, although it certainly contributes a certain "nutty" verdancy to the blend, keeping the opulent creaminess somewhat in check. 2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - Definitely iris-orrisy and should delight iris purists. 3. Is it woody or floral? - Leaning towards woody, but, again, not in any sort of "found in nature" manner. 4. Is it powdery? - Moderately so. Just enough to emphasize the fact that it is a Pefume, not a Smell, an elegantly executed interpretation of an iris, not a photographic image. 5. How expensive does it smell? - Not just profanely, but really offensively expensive. As it should, considering its cost. Conclusion: Sublime. Rich. Quite original, due to the interesting interaction between orris and vetiver. There is something in its golden orrisiness that vaguely remindes me of Attrape-Coeur. And since, inexplicably and inexcusably, Guerlain discontinued the latter, Modoc might possibly become a welcome if costly consolation for the fans like me. I also have to mention that although Modoc is a part of the masculine Shooting Stars collection, there is nothing non-feminine about it. Despite being of the conviction that everything is unisex, I'd even venture to say that Modoc is for ladies if not only then mostly. Available at Luckyscent, $295.00-$470.00, depending on the fanciness of the bottle. Image source, Elle Canada.

Xerjoff Shingl & a prize draw

By Marina A gorgeous iris scent with an unfortunate name and a cold. There. My review is done. OK, fine, I will elaborate on the key points: Name. The perfume is from Xerjoff's Shooting Stars collection, therefore, upon googling, I am guessing that the name might stand for Shingle Springs meteorite, Shingle Springs, El Dorado Co., California, a meteorite fall discovered in either 1869 or 1870 (source). I am guessing it was not meant to evoke "a viral infection that causes a painful rash" (source). But it does. Iris, to me, is the dominant note in the composition. It emerges early, in the top notes, a couple of seconds after the heady mix of bergamot, basil, anise and rum hits the nasal passages with the smell uncannily similar to that Vicks VapoRub. Thus - iris with a cold. Gorgeous. Can a fragrance that makes one think of a couple of deseases at once be attractive? Apparently it can. I actually like the chilly, mentholated smell of Vicks, so that might be a reason. Another reason is the opulence of the orris accord in Shingl. Not unlike that in the sublime Iriss, it is so thick and buttery, you could cut it with a knife. It also smells warm, like the softest, most luxurious cashmere shawl. The contrast of the coldness of the "Vicks" accord and the warmth of orris is very appealing. Before now, I have only known of tuberose (see Tubereuse Criminelle) and gardenia (Volo Az 686) being treated, pun intended, in this manner. I like the fact that the juxtaposition can be felt from start to the very finish, even in the ambery, slightly vanillic base. Shingl is quite possibly the most unique iris fragrance I have encountered, its weird beauty is something I'd urge you to experience for yourself. Besides, 'tis the season of congestions, wouldn't it be nice to replace the old rub with something this glamorous (and, yes, expensive) and get better in style? On that note, stay healthy, everybody! Shingl is available at Luckyscent and Xerjoff, $345.00-$470.00. If you would like to receive a set of 5 Xerjoff samples, say so in your comment. A commenter will be chosen at random.

Winter Roses. Fatale West: Xerjoff Damarose, DSH dirty ROSE

By Marina "O Rose thou art sick. The invisible worm. That flies in the night In the howling storm: Has found out thy bed Of crimson joy: And his dark secret love Does thy life destroy." The Sick Rose by William Blake Sometimes one wants to be comforted, sometimes one wants to feel danger(ous). For such a mood, nothing is more suitable than Dark Roses. Xerjoff's new rose chypre, Damarose, is one of them. The composition lures you in with the playful flirtatiousness of a fruity accord, a tangy, non-sweet blend than made me think of red currants and cranberries...don't let it fool you with its coy smiles though...the innocent flirt of fruits, pink roses and freesia will turn into heavy-lidded seduction, and smiles will become come hither pouts as soon as patchouli enters the scene. Damarose is très recherché and even patchouli, ever the wild child, is elegant here, its earthiness stylized, shown just a little, better to intrigue you...its slight chocolate-like undertone ever so discreet, just noticeable enough to tempt. The ambery, musky base is the texture of silk...dark, dark maroon silk. By the time the drydown comes, you realize that roses, which in the beginning seemed to be pink, fresh, innocent and always in a good mood, are in fact anything but. However, at that point it's too late, you have fallen hard for the fatal charms of this chic creation. While Damarose is a vamp in a figurative sense, dirty ROSE might possibly be the actual creature of the night. In contrast to the dressed-up, Parisian elegance of Xerjoff's offering, DSH's has something wild about it. Damarose's earthy feel was something of an affectation, here the rose is truly dirty. I'd switch the capitalization, and call it DIRTY rose. "The rose is blasted, withered, blighted, its root has felt a worm..." It won't bother luring you with faux sweetness, it will bite you right away with spices. Geranium and pimento give the blend a wonderfully sharp feel in the top notes; the heart is a sacrilegious mix of sacred and base, incense and patchouli; the drydown is the wicked woods from which you'll never want to find a way back home. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz recommends this rose for men, and I can see how it can easily be worn by them, with rose hiding all the while behind spices, resins, vetiver and tobacco...now you see it and now you don't...a hint of something red, moving behind the trees...Where was I?...Oh, right, it can easily be worn by men. Having said that, like any dry, leathery, "goth" fragrance of this kind, dirty ROSE is obviously unisex and dare I say would smell even deadlier on a woman. Damarose is available at Xerjoff's e-boutique, € 500.00 for 100ml, and I assume will be sold soon at Luckyscent...dirty ROSE can be found at dshperfumes.com, $40.00-$100.00. PS. I recently revisited Black Rosette by Strange Invisible Perfumes, in its new Eau de Parfum concentration, and fell hard for it all over again. This is a Dark Rose extraordinaire, the very epitome of Dark Rose-iness. If my memory serves me well, the new blend has less of a "leathery like lapsang-souchoung" and more of an "actually leathery" quality. I don't know if I particularly care for the loss of the tea note. But I am thrilled that I can now finally spray this nocturnal masterpiece. (Available at siperfumes.com and Barneys, $220.00 for 50ml.)

Xerjoff Oesel

Because of you, the heady perfumes of Summer pain me; because of you, I again Seek out the signs that precipitate desires: Shooting stars, falling objects. Pablo Neruda, Love By Marina I was not prepared to like an orange blossom perfume; after being over-exposed to one of those (even if one of the most beautiful ones) for several years, and this time of the year, this is just not a note I appreciate. So loving an orange blossom perfume came as a shock. Another shock was discovering that the exuberantly floral Oesel was in fact meant by creators as a masculine scent. Not that I mind in the least, anything is unisex anyway. I suppose I can see how the masculinity can be justified: by a certain dryness of the blend, the lack of sweetness one might expect from a mix of orange blossom, jasmine, rose and acacia. And yet...there is something so ...breathily, effervescently feminine about Oesel. The dazzlingly bright orange blossom is the dominant note, to my nose. Aided in the top by a more verdant, sharp citrusy-ness of petit grain, it stays on my skin right though the whole development of the composition, singing louder than the other flowers in the heart and even getting through the sumptuous dark muffle of patchouli and woods in the base. The aroma of this fleur d'oranger is like a sheer, bright yellow of a diaphanous organza fabric blowing in the hot summer wind...The vividness of the note makes one catch one's breath and then go, delightfully, aaahh! ...There is just something so infinitely, vibrantly beautiful about it. I should emphasize again how non-sweet this floral explosion is on my skin. And despite the brilliant dominance of orange blossom, the composition retains a certain degree of darkness. If Mona di Orio's truly nocturnal, indolic, earthy, complex Nuit Noire and L'Artisan's buoyantly sunny, fresh and simpler Fleur d'Oranger had an offspring, it would have been just like Oesel...a luminous, joyful creature, which throws an unexpectedly dark shadow... Available at Xerjoff's website and Luckyscent, $345.00-$470.00.

Expecting More from the Top Shelf: Xerjoff XXY and M. Micallef Red Sea

By Donna With fragrance prices heading steadily into the stratosphere in recent years, it's hard to know where to draw the line. What's the new standard of affordable? What's the new definition of snobbery pricing if heretofore moderately priced scents are hitting $200 a bottle just for the Eau de Toilette strength? One thing has not changed, or at least it shouldn't; if a perfume is going to cost the equivalent of a month's car payment or even a month's rent in some cases, it had better be really good. (Check out Tom's recent post for a new solution to high fragrance prices.) I have been testing some samples of higher end perfumes and two of them stood out as being less than deserving of their price tags: Xerjoff XXY and M. Micallef Red Sea, both marketed as unisex scents and both listed as being of the Oriental style. Red Sea is by no means the most expensive in the ultra-niche Micallef line, being $190 for 100 ml. However, the brand's reputation had led me to expect more. I was a fan of the line's first foray into the U.S. market, and it's a shame that their original offerings are discontinued. Absent for a number of years, they came back in a big way with a long list of perfumes that sound original and exciting, so I was delighted to find it among a packet of samples I received. Red Sea's list of notes is neroli, cinnamon, rose, iris, sandalwood and white musk. So why do I get synthetic marine out of it? That was the last thing I expected, despite the name. That aroma softens after awhile but something screechy is left, and I hate to think that this company would be using a woody-amber sandalwood substitute; however, that's what it smells like to me. I am not getting a whole lot of cinnamon in this so that's not it either. The white musk is a possible culprit but it does not smell very musky so I suspect it's one of those “crystal” types that do not resemble the real thing at all. The end result is that this perfume smells rather thin and cheap to me right from the start and it does not improve over time. Maybe it's just me, but I would have expected something a lot better from this house. I tried it several times in an attempt to figure out if my nose was having an off day or if the weather was a factor, etc. but it was the same each time, so it really does not work for me. It reminded me just a little of L' Artisan's Al Oudh, which I love, but it's only a faint resemblance. In this price range I would have expected that level of quality, or even something approaching a Serge Lutens or Montale product. With the field of Oriental perfumes so crowded in recent years, a new one has to be outstanding to succeed, and I don't think Red Sea has the firepower it needs. Whatever Red Sea's sins are, they pale in comparison to the hype surrounding the Xerjoff line compared to the actual delivery. XXY is also described as an Oriental style scent, and here the term is used loosely, because there is nothing rich or lush about it. It is ambery, but in a wispy sort of way, and it gets very quiet after a few minutes – and I am the champion perfume amplifier of all time! It is refined and smooth and nice, but if I were buying this I would want a lot more than just nice. Other alleged notes include black pepper, jasmine, ylang ylang and patchouli, most of which I can't discern; all I get is a softly sweet, slightly buttery amber along with a hint of the ylang ylang and an echo of wood so faint I can't even tell what it is supposed to be. Lasting power is pretty good, but it just never seems to get interesting. The fragrance is presented in a limited edition Venetian glass flask that is available in several colors, for about $1,800 for 50 ml of Eau de Parfum. Yes, that is correct; I did not add an extra zero. You can also get the plain refill version for $270, which to me is still too much. This fragrance may be the ultimate in refinement in its class, but when refinement reaches the vanishing point, perhaps a little more life needs to be left in the formula. This could have been really good had it not been formulated in washed-out pastels instead of deep jewel tones. (On the plus side, the special bottles are gorgeous.) I found XXY for sale at Parfums Raffy, and a sample vial goes for $15. Red Sea is available at Luckyscent and a sample is $4. My samples were received as part of a random grab bag of samples in a prize draw. Image credit: Xerjoff XXY Venetian glass presentation flacon in gold from parfumsraffy.com

Sourpuss, again...Xerjoff Dhofar, Modoc and Tobacco Oroville

By Tom Maybe it's the birthday blahs. This weekend I turn 103 (I know, I don't look a day over 70!) and I'm crabby. So it's with some ennui that I am seeing another company come out with 12 or so scents, stratospherically priced. Not they are bad mind you... Dhofar is a pleasant, gentlemanly citrus that starts with a hint of cumin. Hint is the operative word, this isn't Eau d'Hermes. It then gets lavender somewhat along the lines of Mouchoir de Monsieur. That is, if MdeM had all the life sucked out of it. Modoc is sweet lemons and vanilla amber. Vanilla in both senses: it smells vanilla and it is vanilla, if you get my drift. Light vetiver and lighter musk join in later. It smells...nice. Tobacco Oroville has a bunch of stuff in it. Tobacco, Galbanum, sage, blah, blah. On me it smells somewhat like Opus Oils Dirty Sexy Wilde just not dirty or sexy. Eau d'Hermes is $120 for 3.3 oz at Hermes Mouchoir de Monsieur is $71.80 for 3.4 oz at Amazon Dirty Sexy Wilde is $50 for 1 oz at Opus Oils website These are $345 for 50ML at LuckyScent Nest week I promise to be in a better mood...

3 Orrises

If the Magi's gifts were strictly fragrance ingredients, and the event of gift-bearing was taking place today, there would have to be some additions, reformulations and re-interpretations. It would go something like this: amber standing in for gold as a symbol of friendship (replacing kingship as not sufficiently egalitarian) frankincense as a symbol of non-denominational spirituality (in the name of political correctness), myrrh as a symbol of eternity (can't have death, too morbid), orris as a symbol of understated luxury and oud as a symbol of jumping on the bandwagon. I will go all numerological on you, and "analyze" 3 recent orris scents on the basis of 5 super-objective and scientific criteria (in all seriousness, these are the questions which I am asking myself, when I am smelling an orris-themed perfume): 1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? 2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? 3. Is it woody or floral? 4. Is it powdery? 5. How expensive does it smell? Cartier L'Heure Promise, from the brand's exclusive collection, Les Heures du Parfum. 1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - At first- fairly recognizably; the orris-ness dissipates in a couple of seconds to give way to the pastel-green, powdery-translucent floralcy in feeling not unlike that of Apres L'Ondee or L'Eau d'Hiver 2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - To me, it smells more like first violets might, probably before they even unfolded their petals. 3. Is it woody or floral? - Floral more than woody, but with distinct woodiness. 4. Is it powdery? - Somewhat, in a gauzy, delicate way. 5. How expensive does it smell? - Not particularly. It has the kind of simplicity about it, which, even though it, objectively speaking, might be complex and expensive to produce, does not make one (me) feel justified to spend a lot to buy it. Conclusion: L'Heure Promise was to me the best of the Les Heures. Which is not saying that much, because, although all the scents have an elegant, quality feel, they fall rather flat for me and seem somehow like renditions of themes I've smelled many times before. Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris, from yet another exclusive series, Collection Extraordinaire. 1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - Not very, in a sense that, for the sake of the concept, it chooses to focus on the woody aspect of the multi-faceted orris note, thus sacrificing other qualities. 2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - Neither. It is woody. 3. Is it woody or floral? -There are no flowers. The composition is all about wood, wood, labdanum, a touch of peppery incense and more wood. 4. Is it powdery? - It has a touch of powder, made of very, very finely grated wood. 5. How expensive does it smell? - Fairly. Because it appears to be choke-full of precious wood. Have I used the word "wood" enough times? Because this thing is woody! Conclusion: I was not in any way excited by the fragrances in Collection Extraordinaire, and Bois d'Iris was no exception. Like its siblings, it is well done, but it is...boring, to me. As for the orris... if you are looking for a velvety yet dry, high quality woody perfume, go no further. If you are looking for orris, you might consider... Irisss by Xerjoff, a new to me and molto lussuoso Italian line. 1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - Very. It is orris from start to, eventually, couple days later, because this thing lasts... finish 2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - Definitely iris-orrisy. Not in an earthy-natural, dry-silky way, in which Iris Pallida or Hiris are irisy. This perfume is creamy, velvety, substantial, perfumey, although not as perfumey as the aldehydic Iris Poudre. 3. Is it woody or floral? - It's both. It showcases well these two sides of orris/iris, choosing not to focus on the non-refined earthy side of it. 4. Is it powdery? - Yes. But not overwhelmingly so. The creaminess of ylang (I assume) and woods balances the powderiness. 5. How expensive does it smell? - Molto! The question to ask here, quoting Pretty Woman, would be, exactly how obscene an amount of money are we talking about? Just profane, or really offensive? And the answer would be, really offensive. Borderline New Russian and/or Real Housewife of Whatever offensive. There is a certain chic about this decadently luxurious composition, something in the refined floral note, perhaps, which does not let the scent overstep the border between Elegantly Expensive and Nouveau Riche, but only just about. Irisss is hanging by a well-groomed, glossy hair over the abyss of furs, 10-carat pink diamonds, Maybachs and Louis Vuitton logos. Conclusion: Beautiful. Sumptuous. Long-lasting. Screams luxury. Costs €590.00 for 15ml or €1.625,00 in a fancy Murano flacon!.. Ouch. The price aside, however, this is the orris scent that I liked the most in the sea of orris scents from the last couple of years. Image source, Xerjoff.