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Monday, May 11, 2009

Hilde Soliani Il Vs Iris: Perfume Review

Il Vs Iris, the "I" in Soliani's TI AMO collection of floral fragrances (read the review of Tulipano, the "T", here) sneaked up on me with its quiet, understated, childish or better to say, kittenish charm. Although, I do smell iris in the very beginning, I would not recommend die-hard iris fans to look to Soliani's rendition for a fix. After the iris-like rooty floralcy goes away, and it goes away fast, one is left with very appealing woody greenness, evocative of a smell of freshly snapped young twig.

For a little while, there is something delicately peppery in this verdancy. This part of the composition reminds me vaguely both of the piquant freshness of Navegar and of green spiciness of Piment Brulant, although Il Vs Iris is much, much softer than either of the two. Gradually, the scent acquires a distinctly almondy undertone. At first I was puzzled by the origin of this subtly sweet nuttiness. The almond wasn't thick and saccharine enough to suggest an overdose of heliotrope. The note had pastel transparency...Then I read that the blend includes mimosa and it all made sense: there IS something almondy in the mimosa/acacia aroma, and the almondy quality feels lighter, fresher, airier than in the smell of heliotrope. Imagine mixing Mimosa Pour Moi with Jour de Fete, only make both significantly less sweet. Add to that the pepper of Navegar and Pimont Brulant...And although I make Il Vs Iris sound like a pastiche of L'Artisan creations, it is not.

With its initial earthiness and a distinct touch of spice, Il V Iris has something...I wouldn't dare say, animalic...but certain purring, feline grace. At the same time, its delicacy, its unripe greenness, its soft almondy undertone make it seem child-like. Like a heroine of a well-known song, it has a "gentle hand".

Available at New London Pharmacy, $75.00 for 50ml.

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Blogger elle said...

Have been revisiting the TI AMO collection and this will now be next on my list to sniff again. Sounds perfect for the spring/summer transition! And I love Ofra Haza and that's a beautiful poem. :-)

11:24 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I will psyching myself to tackle the AMO part. Those will probably be more challenging for me, although I've yet to smell a HS scent I don't at least like.

11:36 PM EDT  
Blogger Flora said...

I have never tried anything in this line, but this sounds really original and fresh.

12:25 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

You should try everything in the line, because I am sure that you would love most things in it.

7:21 AM EDT  
Blogger ScentScelf said...

Wouldn't you know I have decants to spell "T Amo"? "I" wasn't available...blart. Sounds like one I'd like to try. But then make so many sound that way... ;)

7:44 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

What did you think of others?

7:46 AM EDT  
Blogger ScentScelf said...

The one I remember right away is anemone, which I remember as being disappointing, actually. I am still excited by the idea of Solani's scents, and enough people whose opinions I respect feel positively about them that I'll go back and revisit.

How about we tackle AMO together? :) prompted me into trying Piment Brulant yesterday. Don't know what I was waiting for...but I enjoyed it!! I need to go at it again, though...I thought for sure I was getting a hint of sweet bell pepper...but it was late, and had been a long, delightful Mother's Day....

3:18 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I like Piment Brulant, it is very unusual, and more complex than appears at first, I find.
We will definitely do something about the AMO together :-)

6:51 PM EDT  
Blogger violetnoir said...

Gosh, I wish luckyscent carried more of her fragrances. This one sounds lovely!


12:08 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I totally agree :-)

7:05 AM EDT  
Blogger Unknown said...

oh my dear Iris, Hilde Solani and Ofrah Haza as I come from the jacaranda strewn avenue in Tel Aviv and open my mail. Do you know what the song says, dear Marina? It is a song from the very early stages of modern Hebrew, and so romantic. Does the fragrance carry that dimension of ancient in the new or novelty in an echo of the past?

9:38 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Az et liba masra lo
Et kol liba masra lo
Ho, Ima, et kol liba masra lo :-)

Yes, someone translated it for me.

As for the scent, I'd say it is novelty with a soft echo of the past.

11:44 AM EDT  
Blogger Unknown said...

" "

Et kol liba

2:25 PM EDT  

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