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Saturday, February 03, 2007

Luca Turin on Les Exclusifs de Chanel


Luca Turnin reviews the six new Chanel scents...and likes every one of them, it seems:

"They are Coromandel, a soft patchouli in the style of Lutens’s Borneo 1834, but more refined; No. 18, an iris-rose that sits next to the defunct Iris Gris in heaven; 28 La Pausa, an iris-violet named after a house Coco Chanel owned; Bel Respiro, a fresh-aldehydic named for another house; and an Eau de Cologne that goes straight to the top of its class.

Every one of these is as good as it gets, but one gave me an emotion I hadn’t felt for years. It was the thrill of feminine beauty, the pang of pain and longing you get in Rear Window when Grace Kelly breezes in, throws her coat on a chair and saunters over to give James Stewart a kiss. It is 31 Rue Cambon, after Chanel’s Paris address, and the best Chypre in thirty years."

He said magic words: "Iris Gris" and "Grace Kelly". I am in deep, deep trouble...And this waiting for the Chanels is the Suspense Of Screaming Proportions!

You can read the whole article at NZZ Folio.

34 Comments:

Anonymous Andy said...

Think about it: The best chypre in 30 years! I can't wait.
When I read Luca writing " (...)I had concluded that great perfumery was essentially over and I might as well take up Tuvan throat singing as my next hobby (...)" I was nodding and frightened that his conclusion was right. Too much, too many, too fast and too cheap (and I do not mean price!). Thus, halleluja!, if Chanel manages to bring some colours back in the face of perfumery, hanging this asthmatic patient on the oxygen line. Let's hope...let's pray. Think...The best Chypre in 30 years!

3:18 AM EST  
Blogger lilyofbp said...

Ok--I was waiting to smell these in the Chanel boutique, but I read this yesterday and immediately ordered a 5ml. coffret from Patty. If I could have, I probably would have ordered a bottle of 31 Cambon right now! No-buy be damned! The best chypre in 30 years! Pleeeeease let me agree with him!

8:02 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Andy,
I was so excited to read the article. I mean...I may or may not have an exactly same taste in perfume as Luca Turin, but I KNOW that he knows a quality scent when he smells it. So, whether these 6 will be my cup of tea or not, now I at leats now that their great scents.

8:49 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Judith,
Was I not on an extremely strict no buy, I'd have done the same. I also want that chypre...and Coromandel...and the one that sits in the heaven next to Iris Gris...my goodness!

8:50 AM EST  
Blogger TMH256 said...

Oh, we are in trouble! Perfume artistry is baaaack. :-)

11:03 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

T,
Yeah..big trouble! :-)

11:05 AM EST  
Blogger Erin said...

The line that freaked me out was: "If you only have room for six perfumes in your life, clear your shelf."

11:34 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Erin,
USD 1050...and that not counting the 4 Rue Cambon fragrances that will reapper in new packaging. *wails*

11:35 AM EST  
Anonymous Leopoldo said...

I'm going to pimp myself on the streets of my village... starting now. Surely they'll be at least one rich sugar daddy taker...

11:44 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Leopoldo,
I don't see any other way to finance the purchase of these 6 either...:-)

11:51 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This may be the best of news and the worst of news...what a review...I am drooling....but,oh my, the price tag! Guess we will be lining up for decants!

12:12 PM EST  
Blogger BalticGirl said...

This may be the best of news and the worst of news...Luca's seal of approval and the price tag for the lot.....I guess we will all be lining up for the decants....

12:15 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

I agree...decants and splits will be the way to go with these...

12:18 PM EST  
Blogger AnnE said...

The *thud* you just heard was my jaw hitting the keyboard. Ouch! :)

Thanks for the news, Marina! I don't always agree with Mr. Turin either, but he sounds pretty persuasive here. And since chypre is my favorite family, well, I'll just give up the fight right now and resign myself to adding another to my collection.

I just really hope they're not *all* all that, or I might never recover from the shock. But this does give me great hope for the future of perfumery.

1:22 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

A,
Yes, the same thing happened to me yesterday. My jaw, it still hurts :-)

1:38 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Even if I won't be buying these (and I won't dammit, I won't *keeps repeating while paying Amex bill*) I beyond thrilled that they are coming out. I hope they are ginormous hits and finally put a nail in the coffin of the fizzy-fruity LoHo craze. Please?

"The best chypre in 30 years"? *happy sigh*

1:40 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

T,
I agree. It would also prove that Chanel is about more than just Chance and various variations of Allure. If they are *really* that good, I might switch my allegiance and become a Chanel fan instead of Dior fan. The houndstooth background will be change to..erm...I guess the intertwined Cs.

1:44 PM EST  
Blogger chaya ruchama said...

Well, THAT'S settled.

Leo and I will take on all comers
[thank goodness, Leo, we're not referring to SM, lol-
JUST S&M, alas] !

Hope this fuels our habit.
We welcome other co-enablers...
Tom? Kelley? Andy ?
Marina? Ina? March? Patty?
Come one, come all...

4:26 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Yeah, OK :-)

4:29 PM EST  
Anonymous Flora said...

Oh, this will NOT be good for my wallet if it's true. "The best Chypre in 30 years" - dear heaven let it be true! I may join the Chanel worshippers after all!

4:30 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Flora,
At this point I don't know what to pray for: that it IS good, or that it ISN'T...

4:33 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Chaya-

Are you suggesting some Chanel-scented cathouse?

Geesh- I can't give it away, much less sell it, but I'm in anyway!

8:10 PM EST  
Blogger Patty said...

Are we all hooking now? I'll play hooker too with you!

Yeah, Luca's short little review just kind of rocked me. I wasn't expecting a blanket hit.

Now, where are us bloggers little sample bag from Chanel, I ask! *stamps foot*

8:26 PM EST  
Blogger carmencanada said...

Count me in the cathouse... Or maybe selling a kidney would be more in order. I thank my lucky stars that I'll be able to smell these live at the rue Cambon boutique -- I mean, there's bound to be a couple that don't rock my world *immediately*. Watch Legerdenez for reviews of at least 31 rue Cambon!

11:43 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

D,
can't wait to read your reviews!

12:19 PM EST  
Blogger katiedid said...

Man oh man, how I so wish my wee bottle of Iris Gris hadn't spilled during the move - have you tried it yet?

LT's article was fantastic. You can't help but feel his excitement, and I've got goosebumps wondering what they will smell like now.

9:28 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Katie,
*wails* Spilled?? You had a bottle of...Iris Gris...and it spilled? *thud* My gosh, I am so sorry!!

9:33 PM EST  
Anonymous katie said...

Yeah, it wasn't a full bottle of parfum anyhow, but once it spilled I only had a few precious mLs left I discovered as I unpacked... sigh. Everything else moved just fine, but of course the most valuable one had to pop open and spill. At least I got to wear it a number of times before it happened. Now I just reserve those few drops to be able to sniff at in the bottle. (I could decant them into a smaller vial or bottle, but that seems even more heartbreaking to me for some reason?) Me and those Faths... well, one day I will find it again, though I am sure it will be a long wait again. It's so rare, and because of the trememdous amount of orris butter it employs, it will never be remade again. (Of course, I hold out hope that someday some genius will discover amazing cheap aromachemicals that will mimic the original's composition well enough that a resonable facsimile will appear. It's a wee, silly hope, but hope nonetheless.)

10:06 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Katie,
To misquote Whitney Houston's song: your hope is my hope and my hope is your hope...*sigh*

10:09 PM EST  
Anonymous dinazad said...

Gawd, but these sound fabulous! Luckily I've fallen in love with Creed's Acier Aluminium these days, so I have something to hanker after until they appear! (Yeah, so I'm fickle, so what! At my age you get away with almost anything. I call it the senility bonus. The twenty-year-olds look at you in commiseration while you get out and have all the fun)

3:19 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

D,
I haven't tried Acier Aluminium. I should find it and fall in love with it too. That would distract me from waiting for Chanels :-)

8:58 AM EST  
Blogger donanicola said...

Ok I'm tres en retard with this thread but am moved enough to write that I am in a state of feverish anticipation......... (yep, its the chypre) and my cc is weeping....

9:50 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Donanicola,
Feverish is just the word to describe what I'm feeling too :-)

10:12 AM EST  
Blogger Eric said...

Ah….the sweet, smell of perfume! Today's market is flooded with hundreds and hundreds of different fragrances ranging from floral to woodsy. Most women love the smell of perfume, wearing it even when going to the grocery store. The problem is that perfume allergy for some women, is anything but nice.

1:46 PM EST  

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