Interview with Emma Jane Leah of Fleurage

By Tom This week rather than actually reviewing a perfume I thought I would interview a perfumer. Emma Jane Leah is the nose behind Fleurage, a store in Australia specializing in bespoke fragrances. I’ve always wanted to ask questions about the process a perfumer goes through in their business, and Emma kindly let me fire away. What was your inspiration in creating your house? I am sure you would agree all unique and independent business is born from frustration with an industry or market? What stems from this a burning desire to bring your offerings to the wider world because you see a need and have the skills and passion to make it happen. My partner Rob and I were driven by our feeling that contemporary perfume has lost its sensuality. Born from this was a desire to fill a recognized gap in the market where perfume lovers are looking for sophisticated, hand crafted, individual scents with botanical ingredients. In years past I, as well as my partner Rob, have preferred wearing perfumed oils as a fragrance rather than the mass market confections and when asking others there is agreement with our concerns and ideas about how scent should be and indeed was many years ago. I believe people want quality perfumes and never before has so much money been spent on fragrance. People I have talked to like to smell desirable but more and more they are developing allergies to ingredients and not finding satisfaction in their purchase of the fragrances offered. Comments I often hear are about classic perfumes being lost and a longing for the old styles of fragrance and how it is presented. For more mature clients who have experienced or remember traditional parfum, we see them dismayed by the contemporary product. The romance and beauty of the boutique perfumery has been replaced by perfume supermarkets. We believe the art of perfumery is too intimate to sell in such a way. This is why Fleurage is a Salon de Parfumerie. It is designed as a refined setting for 'fitting' fragrances with the help of the actual perfumer herself. It is not a boudoir style but the Art Deco fit out reminds us of the elegance of superior design and absolute beauty that can be found in workmanship and production of everyday products. I particularly lament the loss of skilled artisans who produced luxury unique items and worry about the disposability of our lifestyle and the products we use. It is getting harder to purchase products of worth that last-both in value and the workmanship. There is also an underlying drive for quality Australian made goods and industry and disbelief at the lack of availability of innovative production. We have created Fleurage products with that philosophy in mind. What are particular notes that you prefer to use? I have collected an extensive range of over 100 botanical ingredients to use when creating my perfumes for both Fleurage and for private clients. I try not to get stuck with using dependable and regular sets of notes and accords and let my brief dictate what I should use. This is why I always start with a brief rather than playing with the ingredients and as a result have such a large range of different perfumes that vary widely in scent. I have personal sets of notes I prefer for me which are woods resins and rich florals and I must admit I haven’t really produced much of a sweet vanilla range yet as I think its been done so much in perfumes over the last few years. Would you ever consider branching out to a scent that wasn't created for an individual? I already have a range of 45 different Fleurage perfumes that I sell in the Parfumerie with more to come this year as well as the Scent Couture service. Fleurage was actually built around my range of perfumes and the Couture service came next. Name me a smell that you loathe, and one that you love. In nature or in a bottle. I don't deal with the smell of grinding steel-a strange metallic, cloying, burning scent that sticks to my throat and sinuses and makes me feel ill. I adore so many scents both in nature and a bottle but I would have to say that Lady Grey tea in a fine porcelain cup(and yes it does make a difference), wild violets and cut ginger rank as high on the list. It changes with the seasons and my mood though. Scent is so intimately linked to place and feeling and memory as we know and that can effect how we perceive an odour at different times. Do you see a trend in what your clients are asking for, scent-wise? What I have observed when creating profiles is clients don’t like smelling like thousands of others -they want individuality. They often prefer the botanical scents for their well-being and I get asked for 'older style' perfumes without so much vanilla or sickly florals. There is much frustration that a favorite and distinct perfume that speaks to them personally is hard to find and that companies constantly change the perfumes or discontinue them. I have also had long discussions with people about the worry of the possibility that what they are purchasing might not be the real thing due to so many retailers offering the same brands but at hugely differing prices. It would appear people are particular about their scent being genuine, unique and complex. What is your process in building a scent for your client? The most important part is for me to get to know the client so I can create an 'Olfactory Vision'. This is my brief and leads me to the notes I will use. I ask them a lot of questions that reveal their inner being. I associate scents with experiences people relate to me -for instance a recent client likes to wear soft colors and treasures quiet places to relax but has a strong personality and likes to listen to rock music. That information suggested to me that their scent would require depth and solid notes in the base, a lasting heart of softer calming notes and an uplifting and clear top. This is why its so important to do this in person. How does one create a personal scent that reflects you if you have never met? Do you find that your clients return for refills on the same scent, or do they want to branch out to building other scents. Or both? I find a bit of both. Once people experience my perfumes they find their palette becomes more adventurous and they want to explore the range a bit more because their is such delight in the richness and strength of the different scents. You offer other products such as bath ones as well, any plans for more? Oh yes! I plan to have a spa range out this year and I am also developing what we call Hauteur by Fleurage which is corporate gifting and boutique luxury hotel lines for those discerning establishments that really value their clients and want to offer a quality range of pampering products with beautiful botanical scents. As a small house that has a more one-on-one relationship with clientele, what do you see trending as the new "go-to" scents What are people asking you for? Perfume lovers come to me because they are bored with current market fragrance and want something a bit different with personality and style that they can relate to. For instance the men want fragrances that have depth and reflect their masculinity and women often want a scent that has power and definite personality. My clients want to be outside the trends and stand out as an individual so I would say that other perfume houses need to look outside fashion and instead of copying one another do their own thing and maybe concentrate on the quality of the product. Here's a quote for you that I live by as a perfumer " In fine perfumery, as with other arts, the ideal conduct for the artist (perfumer) is, first and foremost to please himself. (or herself) The idea of attempting to assess what an "imaginary public"(a thin figment of the imagination) may, in all probability, like, is both illogical and unprofitable. Such methods (consumer preference estimation etc.) are all very well for the cheap cosmetic market -But in the matter of fine perfumes it is Originality more than any other single factor that really pays"- William Poucher 1937 Soap Perfumery and Cosmetics industry manual. Where do you see your house in 5 years? Firmly established as an alternative and individual offering for perfume lovers both nationally and globally and at the centre of promotion of natural perfumery and niche perfumers by offering them an outlet for their art.

Fleurage Perfumes Part 1

By Tom Fleurage is an Australia-based house created in 2007 by Emma Leah and Robert Luxford that specializing in botanicals and the art of perfume-making.  Emma was nice enough to send me a selection of samples of her work (she is I believe the nose) and I'm going to cover half here today and half tomorrow on The Posse. The first group are fougeres (note, these are all listed as Men's.  Ignore that ladies, I know several of you who would lie like rugs to keep your male family members away from them.  I know I would) Mabon is spicy, smoky and sexy.  It starts with a sprightly burst of warm spices that are quickly joined by woods and a delightful glove leather.  It gets earthier as it develops and does a Lutens-like dance between cool and warm that I loved until I was swept off my feet by... Salamander, which starts off with an oddly sweet pepper.  Odd because it's not like a sweet green or red pepper, but an actual combination of black pepper and slightly burnt sugar.  I don't remember ever smelling that combo before and frankly can't think why I haven't.  It's brilliant.  It also adds in a fair bit of (unlisted) musk, cumin and a wonderful woody incense, while the base amps it up with myrrh,  I'm hopelessly in thrall.  I have the first black-tie Event I'm going to (as a guest)  next month and I hope I can ration this out to be my scent.. Of course if I can't manage that I can always wear Dryad, which takes that wood and adds smoke.  It starts off intensely green with (I think) a touch of sage.  The final dry-down adds in a delicious hint of patchouli and vetiver.  It stays closer to the skin on me than the others do, but perhaps for this event that might not be too bad of a thing.  It reminds me in the best way possible of when men's scents were as adventurous as women's.  I'd wear it in a heartbeat. The second group are the florals: Gardenia Magnifica is a lovely gardenia that's cut with a lovely lemon blossom (I think) note.  So many gardenia scents have been exploring the darker side of the flower; some of them are almost a Grand Guignol Gardenia with claws dripping blue cheese and the scent of rot.  This is a perfect summer day sort of gardenia.  It's a gardenia you could wear to the office, and that's a good thing. Grandiflora is less office friendly, which is the way I like it.  It's a jasmine that written of as being like "putting your face up to the flowers growing on the vine".  Actually it's better.  It starts for me with a thick, winey note that as it thins, become cooler, almost camphorous and green before bursting head-on into the jasmine.  The jasmine in Los Angeles is weird; it's heady from five feet away buy up close doesn't smell like much, perhaps you need the cumulative effect of masses of them.  This jasmine seems finally almost peppery, and so beautifully alive I'd like to smell it far more than my shrubs with the real thing.. Fleurage Consort is flowers dipped in amber and presented in a cedar box, like jewelry.  In the beginning the wood seems sharp with ginger and the amber super-warm.  This stage reminds of of some older perfumes whose names I'd long forgotten but wish I could get.  As it warms and develops the hard edges are sanded down as the wood mellows and the jasmine, rose and tuberose peep their little heads out from the still-warm amber.  This is a winner, and of these three marked "for women" one that I'd have a hard time not filching. Now the bad news.  All of these are available on their website, but I'm not sure if they ship to the US.  Which means that we have to bug LuckyScent into carrying them.  Tune into Perfume Posse for some more reasons to do so, namely her Orientals and Chypres.. My samples and the artwork were provided by the perfumer.

Pretty, Pretty: Bud Parfums Ugly Bastard

By Tom Donna covered several of these and was kind enough to send me a bit of "Ugly Bastard"  The idea of it, well I'll just quote from the website: "He has all the signs of a weather beaten life. Musty wood shavings with a dash of fir around the wrinkles of a hard worker. Dark chocolate, rum and spice which makes him actually quite nice. Laughter amongst the sweat and curses. Not such a romantic but dependable, reliable and eventually he gets the job done. You know you like him, (even though he is an ugly bastard)." I certainly can't call this ugly.  In fact it sort of reminds me a bit of Borneo 1834, a scent that I very much like.  This is a sunnier take on that.  Which I find rather beguiling.  Two scents featuring chocolate that I like?  Who saw that coming? They do ship to America as far as I can tell by their website but I think with shipping it would be about the same as Borneo, which is available at the usual suspects in America right now.  I'd be interested in trying some of the others, as well as some of the other perfumers I've heard of from Down Under, such as Fleurage. Photo Credit: Bud Parfums

Love, Loss and What We Wore

By Tom I was going to write about the fabulous new perfume place on Melrose that opened and all the goodies that they carry.  But I got there and it was.. not so fabulous (which is why I'm not naming it).  Not that they lady that was in there wasn't friendly, it's just that there isn't a lot of product.  I'll give them a couple of months to settle in and see if it's worth the Melrose hassle (parking there is a b$%^h) and what stock they've added if any.  Last week I regaled you all with my petty travails trying to get inexpensive evening wear together for an event I was invited to.  You all made pretty great suggestions- so many that it was hard to choose! The event was for St Jude Children's Research Hospital and was very fancy.  I would never have been able to go (unless I was serving dinner) except that I'd become friends with one of the co-chairs.  We go to the movies together since her husband doesn't like the RomCom thing and I do.  We just went to the Muppets a couple of weeks ago and had a ball.  I always bristle when people try to paint Beverly Hills as full of rich snobs who care more about clothing than people.  My friends know I'm a churchmouse in the finances, but have never, ever made me feel any less than welcome and equal to them, so matter how North of Sunset they are.  Certainly Terre and her family work tirelessly for this charity and she's the most wonderful, down-to-earth person you could ever meet.  Everyone I know in this town really does give back in a big way.  I wish I could do more.  All I can do is ask you to click through and read the article.  I had now idea of the mechanics of the hospital: it spends 1.7 million A DAY on patient care and research, all of it donated.  All of it to save kids. So what did I wear?  The last of my sample of Salamander by Fleurage, which needs to come to LuckyScent like yesterday.  All the ladies I air-kissed said I smelled fabulous.. Photo: Wikipedia Commons

Best of 2011

It's that time of year again, where we look back at the scents that grabbed us by the lapels in 2011! Alena: This year was a year of classical perfumery. My persistant favourite, my alter ego, my holy Grail of perfumery is Chanel No. 22. It was already the fourth time that I celebrated my birthday with it. Every year I'm being amazed by this permanence, almost abnormal for parfumista. This year I wore a lot of Caron, Guerlain and Vero Profumo. Along with the long-beloved Tabac Blond, I discovered An Avion. And added Vol de Nuit and Mitsouko to the pantheon of beloved Guerlains. It was a good year! Beth: My favorite perfume of 2011 was undoubtedly Tom Ford's absolutely delectable Violet Blond. Yes, it's a throwback to the big blowzy scents of the 80's, but I loved those times,partied hard during them and lived to tell the tale! Violet Blond manages to be incredibly sexy and ladylike at the same time and just so much fun! Think Jerry Hall draped all over Bryan Ferry or Lisa Taylor modeling a Halston sheath and you've got the vibe. Notes of Violet leaf, Orris butter and suede (among other things!) make this perfume stunning and original with plenty of hedonistic arrogance to spare. You owe it to yourself to try it, but be careful. Whereas a little bit of Violet Blond is fabulously intoxicating, one spray too much is the olfactory equivalent of an opium infused hangover! Birgit: My favorite new perfume launched in 2011 is Mona di Orio's Oud. At 375€ this is steeply expensive, but after smelling it just once, I was immediately moved to buy a bottle (and split it later, a girl's gotta stay real!). But Oud captivated me in an instant. Oud, the fabled rotten wood, so ubiquitous and therefore fake in so many fragrances these days, is real in this perfume and treated so ingeniously, I couldn't resist its allure and power, although I normally count oud among my least favorite notes. Oud is paired with osmanthus, the sweet apricot- smelling white flower from China, and together they sing a duet of sublime clarity and beauty that stays with me for the entire day. Mona di Orio tragically passed away on December 9, the entire perfume community was shocked and saddened and is still grieving for her. We are glad for the legacy she left in the form of her perfumes, and Oud especially stands out for me as the one perfume that bewitched me most, with its masterful structure and sublime beauty. Oud is a masterpiece that, for me, is worth every cent. Donna: My choice for best fragrance launch of 2011 is actually two – the delectable duo of Nectar des Îles and Vents Ardents from En Voyage Perfumes. This might seem like cheating, but they were actually formulated to complement each other; Vents Ardents, composed by Shelley Waddington, is a rich blend of tropical fruits, bay rum, tobacco and woods while its companion is a tropical style white floral that was created using a range of musks that were selected for their known ability to enhance fruity notes, according to perfumer Juan M. Perez, so that blending them together would result in a something greater than the sum of its parts, and that is exactly how it turned out. Each one is wonderful on its own, but when they are layered on the skin, true magic is made as the exotic notes in Vents Ardents amplify the radiance of the florals in Nectar des Îles and that one in turn brings out the luscious fruitiness of its counterpart. I don’t usually do much perfume layering but these two were literally made for each other and I just can’t get enough. Kelley: My favorite from 2011 (not sure when it came out but it was new to me) would have to be C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries Lemon and Orange Flower No.1807, eau de parfum.  This is a simple concoction of Italian lemon and neroli.  No, it doesn't last that long but I get a couple of hours from the eau de parfum.  It is so sunny and fresh and natural smelling that it was one of the few things I had to buy after smelling it for the first time. Marian: Thai Encens by Oriscent 2011 saw the birth of dozens of oud “perfumes” but the scent that won “Best in Show” is Oriscent’s Thai Encens, a limited artisan distillation from incense grade plantation grown wood- proof that oils extracted from cultivated trees can be every bit of good as their “wild” counterparts. Many women dismiss pure oud as being too masculine or over-the-top funky. Thai Encens could easily be mistaken for a blended natural perfume in which fruit, flowers and woods vie for wearer’s attention. The scents of juicy apricots and heady champaca, the warm spiciness of Sumatran cinnamon, and the soothing, sublime and elegant aura of illustrious green  kyara, combine to create a perfume that is as sensuous as it is other-worldly. The seductive bouquet wafting from the ‘Joy perfume tree” effortlessly fuses with the soothing calmness of sacred woods.  An ethereal, breezy, almost minty lightness drifts between and fuses these distinct yet complimentary accords. Hats off to Oriscent, not only for producing such a mesmerizing perfume, but also for supporting businesses that seek to provide a sustainable source of agarwood while enhancing the quality of our environment. And best wishes to you, too, for a very Merry Christmas and a happy productive and dream-fulfilling coming year. Marina: This year, I felt I have come full circle in many aspects of life, and most certainly in regards to fragrances. When I starting on the path of perfume obsession, Farnesiana was the first scent I Loved. Not liked, not loved, but Loved. And, paradoxically, it might have been its harmonious beauty and the way it resonated with me, which sent me on the search for smells just as beautiful. And you know what? There were plenty. But none touched something in my soul the way Farnesiana did. I should have remembered the words of Meister Eckhart, "when you come to the One that gathers all things up into itself, there your soul must stay." On the other hand, had I realized back then I already had my Holy Grail or my Signature Scent or whatever one could call it, stayed with Farnesiana and looked no further, I wouldn't have discovered Chanel No 22 or Diorama to name just a few. And probably wouldn't have ended up being where I am, doing what I do, knowing what I know. So here is to Farnesiana Marla: There were several tough contenders for the top spot this year, and I find myself torn between two--Mona di Orio's glorious Oud Eau de Parfum Intense, and Andy Tauer's freaky yet comforting Pentachords White. This was a year of too many new perfumes (officially, 2,000, but probably more like 3,500), yet there were some truly original standouts, and these are my two favorites. They are both gorgeous and unique. Tom: While there were quite a few "best of" contenders this year that ranged from the pricey but irresistible Puredistance M to smell bent Debonair Eau Dandy which is the way I remember Eau Sauvage smelling in the seventies long before I was born.  You're buying that, right?  In any case I think I have to give the tip of the chapeau to Fleurage in general and in particular to their scent Salamander.  It might not have been created in 2011, but that's when I discovered it.  I reeeeaaalllyyy hope that LuckyScent starts carrying this brand in the States.  It's that good.  Of course. like the rest of us I hope that all of you have a wonderful 2012 and will chime in on your Greatest Hits of this past year. For more looks back at 2011 please visit  Perfume Posse, Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This, The Non-Blonde and Grain de Musc.

Interviews

(Recent first) Interview with Lianne Tio - Interview with Emma Jane Leah of Fleurage - Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour - Confessions of a Perfume Addict: An interview with Kelley - The Hidden Life of a Fragrance Addict: An Interview with Tom - Will the Real Colombina Please Stand Up! - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 7 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 6 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 5 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 4 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 3 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 2 - Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 1 - Claude Marchal, the creator of Parfums MDCI, talks about his line - Interview with Rene Schifferle, the creator of LesNez

Guest Posters' Reviews and Articles

(In chronological order) Tom: Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Chene - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Gris Clair, Borneo 1834 and Daim Blond - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Miel de Bois - Adventures in Le Labo - The Dog Days - Perfume Review: Acqua di Parma Colonia - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle - CB I Hate Perfume. Secret History Series - Perfume Slumming, or the 70's revisited - Yum, Yum, and More Yum - Musc, Musc And More Musk - More CB I Hate Perfume - Perfume Review: Chypre Rouge and Mandarine Mandarin - For The Boys...Well, not really. - Hold Your Nez, Part 1 - Hold Your Nez, Part Deux - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque - Yin and Yang - Where's The Beef? - A Weekend Trip to Scentbar - Les Nez (no need to hold 'em) - Perfume Review: Caron Tabac Blond and En Avion - A Holiday Surprise - Perfume Review: Caron Or et Noir and Farnesiana - Perfume Review: Caron N'Aimez Que Moi and Alpona - Perfume Review: Caron Montaigne and Eau de Reglisse - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Santal Blanc - S-Perfume S-ex and Lust - It's All About Miss Dior - Review a Trois - Perfume Review: Rousse by Serge Lutens - Perfume Review: Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, Cuir Ottoman, Eau de Gloire, Eau Suave and Iskander - Perfume Review: Apothia L, Velvet Rope, and If - Sniffapalooza Hits Los Angeles - Perfume Review: Juozas by Juozas Statkevicius - Perfume Review: Sky by Gendarme - I Twat I Taw a Puddy Tat - Perfume Review: Jean Patou Joy, My Liberte, Cocktail and Pan Ame - Perfume Review: Le Labo Aldehyde 44 - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly - For the Boys, part deux - Love of Lavender - The Eureka Moment ...And a Bit of News - A Week of Sniffing Randomly - I Hate Mondays: A Tale of Air-Conditioning - Perfume Review: L'Artisan Perfumeur L'Eau de Jatamansi - Tom Ford Private Blend - Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel and Frederick Malle French Lover, or, A Tale of Two Vetivers - Perfume Review: Nasomatto Fragrances - Montale Aoud Ambre, Fougeres Marine, Sandal Sliver, Sandalflowers and Vetiver des Sables - Perfume Review: Frank Los Angeles Frank, #2 and #3 - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Chergui - Red, White and (Sacre)Bleu: 4 American Favorites for July 4 - Perfume Review: Eau Noire by Christian Dior - Perfume Review: Bandit by Robert Piguet - Top 10 of Summer - Perfume Review: Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi - Perfume Review: Comme des Garcons Play - Perfume Review: CB I Hate Perfume I am a Dandelion, Greenbriar 1966, Under the Arbor, Wild Hunt and Eternal Return - Another Trip to Scentbar - A Surge of Serge - Boozy Tuesday - Perfume Review: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage - Confessions of a Perfume Addict: An interview with Kelley - Perfume Review: Frederic Malle Outrageous! - Perfume Review: Miller Harris Tangerine Vert, Fique Amere and Fleur du Matin - Perfume Review: Bond No 9 Saks DNA - Perfume Review: Michael Storer Monk, Il Giardino and Djin - Saturday Sniffage - Dzing! went the strings of my heart - Top 10 of Autumn - What a Difference a Week Makes - Perfume Review: Sarrasins by Serge Lutens - Perfume Review: Cumming The Fragrance - Perfume Review: Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain - Double Perfume Review: Frapin Caravelle Epicee, Esprit de Fleurs, Passion Boisee and Terre de Sarment - Perfume Review: Lubin Vetiver and L'Eau Nueve - Perfume Review: Andy Tauer Hyacinth and Mechanic - Perfume Review: Bond No 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory - Perfume Review: Feminite du Bois by Shiseido - Tom's Best of 2007 or The Pansies - Perfume Review: Annick Les Orientalistes Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant - Your Gotta Have Friends... - Perfume Review: Andy Tauer Incense Extreme - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Arabie and Fleurs de Citronnier - Parfums 06130 Feuille de Reglisse - Perfume Review: Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon - You gotta have friends, part 3 - Winter Blues - Perfume Review: Le Labo Vanille 44 - Le Labo Lands in LA - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Five O' Clock Au Gingembre - Comme des Garcons Series 6: Synthetic - Andy Tauer at Scent Bar - Sunday Sniffings - Randomly Roaming - Various and Sundries... - Roses, roses and more roses - Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland - Stink, Stank, Stunk - Thwarted! - Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande - Perfume Review: Annick Goutal Musc Nomade - On the Lighter Side - Vero Perfume Onda - Vero Perfume Kiki and Rubj - Parfumerie Generale L'eau Guerriere, Cuir d’Iris, L’oiseau de Nuit and L'Ombre Fauve - Lostmarc'h Laan-Ael, Aod, Atao and Iroaz - Perfume Review Serge Lutens Serge Noire - Perfume Review: Strange Invisible Perfumes Musc Botaniquе - Perfume Review: Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte - Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume - Montale Musk to Musk - Pansy Hits Manhattan - Sometimes They Come Back... - Feerie by Van Cleef & Arpels - Roxana Illuminated Perfumes - This'n That... - Caron 3eme Homme - Fiddling while Rome burns - Sweater Girl...Le Labo Musc 25 - Liz Zorn Sinti - Bois, bois, bois: Serge Lutens Un Bois Sepia, Bois de Violette and Bois et Fruits - What to Give for Christmas to the Over-Applier? - GKnight Knight Fall, Knight Fall Maiden, Poetry and Abstraction - Meandering...Indult Reve en Cuir - Divine L’être Aimé Homme et Femme: Perfume Review - Frederic Malle L'Eau D'Hiver: Perfume Review - Interview with Emma Jane Leah of Fleurage - Strange Invisible Perfumes Aquarian Roses, Epic Gardenia and Urban Lily - Kindness of Strangers, and a giveaway - Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie, Red Vetyver and Black Aoud - Interview with Lianne Tio - Perfume Posse Visits (part of) Perfume Smellin' Things --- Erin: - The Week in Scent - Skin Chemistry --- Tina: - Spritz Me Baby One More Time? --- Kelley: - Three Blind Buys - Orris by Andy Tauer - Perfume Review: Montale Perfumes. Sandflowers and Aoud Lime - Perfume Review: Montale Perfumes. Oud Ambre, Greyland, and Oud Cuir Arabie - Perfume Review: Escada Casual Friday - Sonoma Scent Studio - Perfume Review: Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie - Perfume Review: Spirit of the Tiger by Heeley - The Montale Rose Series - The Smell of the Garden - Perfume Review: Montale Blue Amber - From the Diary of a Scent Addict... - Perfume Review: Alexander McQueen Kingdom - From the Diary of a Scent Addict... - Nejma One and Two by Pascal Morabito - Hyacinths and Mechanic by Andy Tauer --- Denyse - Just give him the oh-la-la...Frederic Malle French Lover --- Judith - Paris Sniffa --- Donna - The Perfume House - A Love Story - Second Act: Roses for a Diva - Floating Like a Vapor On the Soft Summer Air: La Haie Fleurie du Hameau - A Trio of Puzzlers: Caron Farnesiana, L’Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fête & Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie - Love, Hate and Revulsion: My Perfume Hall of Shame - A World Apart: The Secret Perfumes Revealed - Three for the Road from the Outlet Mall - Just Call Her Scary Spice: Black Widow Perfume - A Sappy Story that Ends Well: Max Mara - Home and Dry: Yves Rocher Neonature Cocoon Perfume - Goddess of the Underworld - Manly, Yes, But I like It Too: Sashka For Him - The Desert King: Tauer Perfumes Incense Extreme - White Floral Queen, Part One – Frederic Malle Carnal Flower - White Floral Queen Part Two: Creed Fleurissimo - White Floral Queen Part Three: Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle - White Floral Queen Part Four: Comptoir Sud Pacifique Tiaré (Original) & Montale Intense Tiare - White Floral Queen Part Five: Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan Purrfume Oil... And a Prize Draw - White Floral Queen Part Six: Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion - White Floral Queen Part Seven: Robert Piguet Fracas - White Floral Queen Part Eight: Best of the Rest and Also-Rans - Roses in 3-D: Annick Goutal Ce Soir Ou Jamais - Love In the Afternoon: Demi-Jour by Houbigant - A Lady Never Tells: Apercu by Houbigant - Bermuda Shorts: Quick Takes From An Island Perfumery - Out on the Misty Moors: Montale Greyland - Royal Decadence: Jean Desprez Bal á Versailles - You Really Can’t Have Too Many: An Ava Luxe Sampler - How The Other Half Lives: Henry Dunay Sabi - The Green Goddess: Vacances by Jean Patou (1936) - DSH Perfumes Part One: A Voyage of Discovery - DSH Perfumes Part Two: Scents In Living Color - DSH Perfumes Part Three: The Dance Of Attraction - DSH Perfumes Part Four: Roses and Resins - DSH Perfumes Part Five: Palace of The Sun King - Seriously Sensual: Montale Aoud Queen Rose --- Beth - My New York State of Mind. Perfume Review: Norell - Perfume Review: Lancome Magie Noire - Lucy - Forbidden Fruit - Frosty Couture - Silent Night - Nuit de Noel by Caron - Perfume Review: Yves Saint Laurent Opium - Jean Desprez - Bal A Versailles - Perfume Review: Christian Dior Diorissimo - Perfume Review - Creed Royal English Leather - A Life Well Lived - All Hallows Eve - Lily Pulitzer “Wink’, Squeeze” and “Beachy” - Saint Parfum “Tomato Vine” - Jo Malone Black Vetyver Café: Perfume Review - Shalimar - Fracas --- Marla - Long Lost Perfumes: Niki de Saint Phalle - The Three Zens - Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh: The Gifts of the Magi in Perfumery - Scent Rules I Learned from Europeans - Time to Rant- 800 New Perfumes, and a Big Whatever - The Joys of DIY - Anise and Licorice- Love It or Loathe It, Some Gotta Have It - A Twosome for Autumn: Short Reviews of Bvlgari’s Jasmin Noir and Estee Lauder’s Sensuous - Japanese Perfume: A Selected History - Where is the Love for Lalique? - What We Love Versus What We Wear --- Linda - Perfume Review: L’eau d’épices by Andy Tauer Perfumes - A Bouquet of Mimosa Blossoms - Letting my freak flag fly: Dinner by Bobo - The Great Outdoors: Sables and Burning Leaves - My drummer must be different: Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes (Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant) - Cheap Thrills and Nostalgia: Villainess’ Jai Mahal and The Girls Love - Ebba: By Sand, Miss Marisa and Miss Marisa Tropical - Unnatural acts with natural ingredients: experiments in perfumery --- Alyssa - Perfume? Really? - Oriental Dreams - Perfume Cool and The Rules - The “In a Station at the Metro” Perfume Project and The Winner of the Botrytis Draw - La Perfumista par Excellence, Part I: The Other Passions - Of the Green and the Purple: Searching for the Souls of Good Violets - Other People’s Perfume Part I: Smoke - Perfumes for a Dame --- Ida - Le Parfum d'Ida: A Lovingly Aromatic Alliance --- Marian - Perfume Review: Agarscents Bazaar Al Manara - Arab Perfumes Al Rawza ---