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Tuesday, May 04, 2010

Nuit de Tubereuse by L’Artisan Parfumeur : Cyborg Love (and a prize draw)

By Marla

I move a little slowly when it comes to modern culture. I only just viewed Bjork’s haunting short film, “All is Full of Love” a week ago, and I was testing some of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s new “Nuit de Tubereuse” at the same time. I loved the icy tenderness of the film, and it seems to me that Bjork’s commentaries on modern communication and communion continue and expand Laurie Anderson’s multi-faceted musings on the same subjects. The images of twin cyborgs passionately embracing is both frightening and compelling. So how does this new perfume by Bertrand Duchaufour ally with cyborg love?

I hate tuberose absolute. I hate tuberose perfumes. I find them revolting. I love sniffing the actual flower, however, as it has a sort of attraction/repulsion gumbo of scent molecules that is quite intoxicating in a garden, out in the fresh air and sunshine. But in a perfume? Eek. I never want to smell like that.

“Nuit de Tubereuse” is a departure from the usual in that it basically abandons lactones and indoles. Its sharp, nose-searing opening is neon and electric rather than tropical, rotting, and indolent. It smells cold, alien, and strange. Yes, it’s floral, tuberose and orange blossom are there, but perversely so, as if a computer geek had composed binary flowers for a decoration in his holo-lab. There’s no distinctive drydown per se, though there are shifts in orientation over the hours. But, like holograms, these various facets remain unnatural, and thoroughly otherworldly. Longevity and sillage are both impressive. There is no doubt in my mind what the two cyborgs in Bjork’s film smell like, and it’s both attractive and frightening to me. If you would like to try it for yourself, please leave a comment, I’ll pick a winner at random and send a sample. The draw is closed.

(Full disclosure: I received my “Nuit de Tubereuse” from L’Artisan Parfumeur as a gift.)

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Wednesday, December 22, 2010

In Which I Nearly Have an Opinion (L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse)


By Marina

Steve (to Patrick about some fabric samples): You have an opinion yet?
Patrick: Nope! Nothing! Keep trying to have an opinion but nothing happens in my head.
(...)
Steve: Well?
Jeff: I nearly had an opinion about that one.
Steve: What was it?
Jeff: It's got a lot of lines.
Steve: OK. What do you think about that?
Jeff: I don't know.
Coupling, Season 2, Her Best Friend's Bottom

I don't often suffer from a lack of opinions when it comes to perfume. And I basically invariably "get" Duchaufours work. So I can't really explain why I "keep trying to have an opinion" about Nuit de Tubereuse "but nothing happens in my head." Here is what I've been able to scrape up:

- It is Strange-but-Wearable, which is one of the qualities in fragrance that creates perfume fanatics out of regular people. Have it not been for a couple of L'Artisans and Lutenses way back when, I probably wouldn't have been doing what I do now. (Have it not been for a couple of timeless and impeccable Chanels and Guerlains, I wouldn't have been doing what I do either, classic perfection is after all as fascinating as contemporary/niche oddness...but I digress). The fragrance is a rather bizarre-yet-harmonious, jolie laide mix of tuberose, mango and rubber, a unique take on tuberose ...And so, as Robin said, "Nuit de Tubéreuse is exactly the sort of perfume that keeps me blogging."

- It is a unique, but true take on tuberose. Both the fruity (in this case, mango instead of the usual coconut, but this is where uniqueness comes into play) and the rubbery facets of tuberose are highlighted to perfection.

- It is a vivid perfume, I see it in color, which for me, as a visual person, is a big deal. To be precise, I see it as hot pink.

- It is a very "Duchaufour" fragrance, which is a plus in and of itself, and also I appreciate when a perfumer's signature is perceptible in his or her work. All that extravagant, exuberant, pink voluptuousness rests on Duchaufour's trademark dry, earthy-resinous base. The contrast of the two is very appealing; I like a good contrast in perfume.

-It is different enough from L'Artisan's old Tubereuse, which is all tuberose and no quirks (speaking of classic perfection...) to justify having both in the line. There is also La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme, but one tends to forget about that one.

That said...I still don't really know what I think about all that...I missed a chance to wear the scent in the heat of summer, which is when big florals bloom on me, so maybe I'll form an opinion next year.

What do you think of Nuit de Tubereuse?

Available wherever L'Artisan is sold, $115.00-$155.00.
Image source, L'Artisa Parfumeur.

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Saturday, September 10, 2005

Perfume Reviews by Perfume House: I-Q

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Cologne a L'Italienne
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Intense
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Masculinity
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i Profumi di Firenze
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Cuoio di Russia (Russian Leather)
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-
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Jalaine
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JAR
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Shadow
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Jean Desprez
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Jean-Louis Scherrer
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Jean-Louis Scherrer (Scherrer)

Jean Pascal
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-
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Jean Patou
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J & E Atkinsons
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Mirra & Mirra
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Jessica McClintock
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Jessica McClintock
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Jill Stuart
Vanilla Lust
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JoAnne Bassett
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Indulgence
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Jo Malone
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Juicy Couture
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Juicy Couture Frosty Couture
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Juliet Stewart
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Juliet
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Juozas Statkevicius (Josef Statkus)
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Juozas Statkevicius Eau de Parfum
Juozas Statkevivius Eau de Parfum Review 2
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Kaipu
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Cherry Blossom
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Karl Lagerfeld
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Kapsule Overview
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Keiko Mecheri
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Kenzo
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Kiehl's
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Original Musk

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Knize
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Knize Ten Review 2
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La Base
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La Base For Her
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Lanvin
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Arpege
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My Sin
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L’Artisan Parfumeur
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Lalique
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Lancome
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La Prairie
Laura Biagiotti
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Sotto Voce
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Laura Tonatto
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Safram
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Laurence Dumont
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Tendre Madeleine
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Le Galion
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Snob
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Sortilège
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Le Jardin Retrouve
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Jasmin
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Le Citron Poivre
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Le Labo
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-
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Les Nereides
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Les Nez
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-
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Les Parfums de Rosine
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Lily Pulitzer
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Beachy
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Squeeze
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Wink
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Lisa Hoffman
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Tuscan Fig
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Liz Zorn
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Grand Canyon
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Sinti
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Lolita Lempicka
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L de Lempicka
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Lord Jester's Perfumes
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Reviews: 1

Lorenzo Villoresi
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-
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Cuir de Russie
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Lubin
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Lucien Lelong
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Overview
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Lulu Beauty
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Lulu Guinness
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Cast a Spell
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MAC
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Naked Honey
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Maison Martin Margiela
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(Untitled)
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Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
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-
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Marc Jacobs
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Marc Jacobs Splash Rain
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Maria Sharapova
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Maria Sharapova
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Marina de Bourbon
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Lys
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Marina de Bourbon
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Mark Buxton
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English Breakfast
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Matthew Williamson
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Max Mara
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Max Mara
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MDCI
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K1
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K2
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K3
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PB2241
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Peche Cardinal
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SB1
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Memoire Liquide
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Bisou au Chocolate (bespoke)
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Micallef (Parfums M. Micallef)
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Note Vanillee
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Red Sea
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Sashka For Him
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Vanille Aoud
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Michael Storer
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Djin
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Il Giardino
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Monk
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Miller et Bertaux
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Miller Harris
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Aqaba Spring
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Missoni
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Missoni
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Modern Atelier
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Overview
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Molinard
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Habanita
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Mona di Orio
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Montale
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Nasomatto
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Absinthe
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Duro
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Narcotic Venus
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Hindu Grass
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Silver Musk
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Natori
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Natori
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Neil Morris
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Burnt Amber
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Dark Earth
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Nelly Rodi Scent Factory
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Nez a Nez
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Norell
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Norell
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Nouveau Paris
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Blue Diamond
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Novaya Zarya
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Ormonde Jayne
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Ozwald Boateng
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Paloma Picasso
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Parfum d’Empire
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Parfumerie Generale
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Aomassai Review 2
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Parfums 06130
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Parfums d’Orsay
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Parfums Regence
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Pascal Morabito
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Patyka
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Paul Smith
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Penhaligon's
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Gardenia
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Lily of the Valley
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People of the Labyrinths
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A Maze (A*Maze, Amaze, POTLAM)
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Philosophy
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Unconditional Love
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Pierre Cardin
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Profumum
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Providence Perfume Co.
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Osmanthus Oolong
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Indolice
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Puredistance
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Antonia
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M
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Puredistance 1
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Monday, April 20, 2009

Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens: Perfume Review

As undeniably pretty and conventional as a bouquet bought as a present, when one doesn't know what else to give - this is, to me, Nuit de Cellophane. Does that sound like a Serge Lutens scent to you? To me neither, but I am glad that it is not "an obvious Lutens perfume", i.e not oriental, not all base notes and does not have immortelle. For a long time now I wished the maitre would move on to pastures less dark, and Nuit de Cellophane might be a sign of such a move, or at least it might provide a welcome temporary break from the orientals.

Since I am not a French speaker, the "cellophane" part of the name seemed rather morbid to me at first in a Twin Peaks sort of way. But I got over it, and now feel that "cellophane" is there to point out the- probably intentional and stylized- conventionality of a composition. The crinkly, sparkly conventionality of transparent cellulose covering a bouquet of pastel roses. The generic aspect, to me, starts midway through the development of the scent. The beginning is actually very interesting, a bright, fresh fruity-green accord that blends already apricotty osmanthus with more (unripe) aprictots and something verdant and dry. There is liveliness and effervescence in the top notes of Nuit de Cellophane that I adore. When the blend becomes creamier, and what makes it so I am not sure (more osmanthus, jasmine, almonds, honey? all of the above?), it becomes, as a dear friend put it, a smell of a perfume section of Sephora. Sort of a collective image of various pleasantly smelling fruity-florals. The base notes continue on the creamy road, but make it a tiny bit darker, muskier and woodier; this is where, if you didn't know who created the scent, you might possibly, if you are super knowledgable of the line and super perceptive, intuit that it is by Lutens.

I do wish Nuit de Cellophane was all about the elegant vivacity of its top notes and nothing about cream and honey. Just like a cellophane wrapped bouquet of conventionally pretty pastel roses, this is not something I would buy for myself. Just like such a bouquet, this is something I would accept with much pleasure and enjoy...all the while secretly wishing that the giftor had more imagination and presented me with something like Tubereuse Criminelle instead.

Available at Aedes and Luckyscents, $120.00 for 50ml.

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Saturday, September 10, 2005

Perfume Reviews by Perfume House: R-Z


Perfume houses A-H, Perfume houses I-Q
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Ralph Lauren
Red Flower
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Regina Harris
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Reminiscence
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Rich Hippie
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Rich Hippie
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Woodstock
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Robert Piguet
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Tocade review 1 Marina
Tocade review 2 Donna
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Roxana Illuminated Perfumes
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Chaparral
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Gracing the Dawn
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Peace
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Phoenix Myster
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Q
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Vera
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Reviews: 1, 2, 3
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Sali Oguri
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Pink Manhattan Purrfume Oil
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Unreleased Mix aka Persephone
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Santa Maria Novella
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Citta di Kyoto
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Patchouli
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Sarah Horowitz-Thran (Creative Scentualizations)
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Love
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Satellite
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Severnoe Siyanie
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Lesnoj Landysh
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Shalini
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Shalini
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Shiseido
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Nombre Noir
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Sinfonia di Note
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Coeur de Noisette
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Saveur d'Artichaut
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Sisley
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Soir de Lune
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Six Scents
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Series 2
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Slatkin
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Black Fig & Absinthe
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Smell Bent
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Rewiews: 1, 2, 3, 4
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Sonya Rykiel
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7e Sense
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Belle en Rykiel
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Rykiel Woman
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Space NK
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Melodrama
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S-Perfume
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Lust
Lust Review 2
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S-ex
S-ex Revew 2
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Sloth
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Stephanie Saint-Aignan
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Le Pot Aux Roses
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Tobacco Mucho
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Un The au Sahara
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Strange Invisible Perfumes
Tann Rokka
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Tauer Perfumes
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Lonestar Memories review 2 Tom
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Orris Guest Review
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Reverie au Jardin
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Une Rose Chypree
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Taylor of London
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Lily of the Valley
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Teo Cabanel
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Alahine
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The Bermuda Perfumery
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Navy Lime
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The Different Company
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Sel de Vetiver
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Theo Fennell
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Theo Fennell
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The Party
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The Party in Manhattan
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The Ten Party
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Thierry Mugler
Tom Ford
Versace
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Vivienne Westwood
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Voluspa
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Cult of Helios
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Washington Tremlett
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Black Tie
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Clove Absolute
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Royal Heroes
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Weil
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Wickle
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Worth
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Courtesan
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Xerjoff
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Damarose
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Dhofar
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Irisss
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Modoc
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Oesel
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Oroville
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Shingl
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XXY
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Yachtsman
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Reviews: 1
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Yardley
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Lily of the Valley
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Yosh
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Kismet
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Sottile 1.61
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Yves Rocher
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Neonatura Cocoon
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Pur Desir de Lys
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Voile d'Ambre
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Yves Saint Laurent
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